@phaedrux Yes, I think I've read quite a few of them at this point.

I sent you a video link. If you've got 40 seconds, I hope you'll watch it.

Mac

@tinchus said in "semaphore" control:

@fcwilt but as I said, I connected the ground PIN too. There is something Im not understanding?

The out6 pin, when "on" connects to GND.

If you have an lamp of some sort connected between out6 and GND then both ends of the lamp get connected to GND - that is not going to work.

The "negative" end of the lamp needs to connect to out6 and the "positive" end of the lamp needs to connect to V_OUTLC1

Frederick

@nightowl Droftarts asked me to post my config.g and Homez.g files because my X and Z motors are locking up. He’s trying to help me figure out what’s going on with this conversion.

@nightowl I created a new config and homex for an Ender 3 with my board in it. From a config and a related article about putting a Duet 3D Mini 5+ in a real Ender 3. What I posted is gone.

@fcwilt
One more note, I swapped the ports for tools 3 and 4, and now all the tools work again. I think there's something wonky with the tool distribution board, so I'm ordering a replacement.

Thanks,
Steve

@mac Your second video has the BLTouch working correctly; at startup it does 2 self test deploy and retracts, then stays lit up in red. It is supposed to be powered from 5V. That's what the wiring table says to do.

If you look at the BLTouch documentation, you'll see the BLTouch can OUTPUT 5V, or can be set to OUTPUT 3.3V. On old Duet 2 boards, if you set it to output 5V, the input on the Duet can't cope with that voltage, so you have to set the BLTouch to output 3.3V. It's not relevant any more. It is explained in the Duet 2 section of the documentation. The Duet 3 section has the note that says it doesn't matter.

As for the motors and the screen, please post your config.g and homex.g files.

Ian

@droftarts Thanks for the reply, and you helped me figure this out. I turned MS3 to off and EN to low. It's working now. Appreciate the help!

@rushmere3d took me a minute, but I see it now. We’re a ways away from that.

@oliof wish I’d thought of that! Project done.

@gloomyandy

interesting,

could i just connect the negative OUT_0 to the ground on power in? that way im still using the fuse for OUT_0 or will that cause problems?

@mac You are looking here, right? https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_connecting#software-setup

io7.out is an example. It's actually a valid pin for Duet 3 mainboard 6HC, not Mini 5+. Earlier in the BLTouch instructions, it says:

For Duet 3 Mini 5+, use IO_1, IO_2 or IO_3.

In step 2 of the configuration, it shows (as an example):

M950 S0 C"io3.out" ; Duet 3 Mini 5+

Relate it to this picture (or the wiring diagram), where # is the number of the io connector you are connecting the probe to:
alt text

Ian

@arnold_r_clark is that a derrière joke?

@droftarts innovative, out of the box thinking! (But yeah, I get it, and we're going to fix it. Thanks for not putting a photo credit on it.)

@that-guy-e

Connecting ground to the daughter board and the VCC to the io.7 appears to have solved the problem.

I'll continue to monitor and test on another controller.

You've been helpful as always

@oliof if I could connect that Xvico board to rrf; that would be better than burning it to ashes, I guess.

@nightowl999 said

By the way, I don't think the topic title is appropriate.

I agree.

@Corlissmedia please title your threads more appropriately for this forum.

FYI to change the title of a forum thread, edit the first post of the thread. This can only be done by the thread starter (ie the first post to a new thread) or an admin.

I have renamed the thread and unlocked it.

Ian

We could have been half way through a board exchange by now.

@engikeneer
@jay_s_uk

Apologies for the wild goose chase. I think my initial problem has been resolved.

(1) So I am just going to say I was looking at the wrong spot for the e0/e1 LEDs. I was looking close to the connector (similar to the LED for the heater bed) but I now see the LEDs are along the edge of the board. As such, I can confirm that when Heater 1 is active, the LED was working (even when setting the active temp to 35)
(2) As for the voltage issue...initially I was probing the the top of the screw terminals and seeing there was no voltage and no temp increase with the wires attached. I then removed the wires thinking it was some other issue but never replaced them after updating the firmware and such. In hindsight, the top of the screw probably wasn't making any electrical connection when loose...so after I tighten the screws down, I am indeed reading a voltage of ~12V. So that is definitely my bad.

Calling this resolved though I will need to go through the heater tuning step as suggested by @jay_s_uk

Thanks again all,
K