if you have a duet v1.04 you connect them like a npn probe
but instead of connecting the signal wire to the z probe port you connect the signal wire to the stop pin for xyz
the hotend does not need its own mosfet. unlike board like the anet a8.
the hotbed will need its own mosfet if you exceed 15A.
my suggestion would be to wire one power supply to the duet board which powers everything except the hotbed. and connect the second power supply to the mosfet that powers the hotbed and wire the mosfet controls to the hotbed connector on the duet board.
the endstops are configured as NO.
@fma said in Inverting PS_ON levels:
@nxt-1 said in Inverting PS_ON levels:
While thinkering with the optocouper, I came to think if there is any good reason to not connect the transistor straight across the RC+ and RC- terminals? As I see it, this would create a short or open based on PS_ON controlling the PSU just as well as a voltage applied. If I am mistaken, please correct me
Yes, I think this is the way to go.
I tried it, but I forgot the signal needed to be inverted. As a result, this way it is functional but reversed. I not proficient enough with electronics to know if there is anything I can do to fix this, with the stuff I got laying around.
@dallash said in 2 extruders, 2 zmotors ,1 x, and 1 Y:
ok got the duex 2 on order, is this programmed with the configuration tool in the same way as the Duet2wifi?
You don't need to do anything special about configuring a Duex expansion board. All you need to do is connect whichever motor you want to use to one of the Duex drivers, then use M584 to map that driver to an axis or extruder. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M584_Set_drive_mapping
@sebastien said in MinebaMitsumi 17PM-KA39B steppers not moving (Atom 2.0 upgrade):
Replying to myself here, but basically the wiring was OK and that I thought there was a problem because the movement was too brief. I was using G1 S2 X1, but using a higher value such as G1 S2 X10 makes the movement more visible.
The main thing that made me think there was an issue is that the motor produce a sound after a G1 S2 command even when they're not moving, while I thought they would power off after the movement is complete. Issuing a M1 command does stop the noise from the motors.
So it's working after all?
When you first power up the printer, the motors are not powered. After you first move a motor, it remains powered at the end of the movement, in order to hold position. The motor current will be reduced to the idle value (default 30% current) after all motors have been idle for the idle time (default 30 seconds). The firmware assumes that the motors will still hold position at the idle current setting. On some printers (mostly deltas), you need to increase the idle current percentage to make sure of this.
You can disable the motors (i.e. reduce current to zero until they are commanded to move again) using M18 or M84, but then they are not guaranteed to hold position, so the associated axes will be flagged as not having been homed.
@vapvap said in Incorrect readings of the PT100 sensor:
@bearer In that case, what do you think, why did my sensor "double" the temperature?
Probably because there is a bad connection in one of the connectors in your PT100 wiring. Most likely a bad crimp.
EDITEDIT-idea: Maybe increase the 100% startup-time to 5seconds or so to blow out any dust?
Maybe dust and or heat (too close to the extruder?) kill your fans?
I consider myself as lucky, that I could print parts at the local university out of high-temperature-PolyCarbonat on an Ultimaker-3 with which I printed "frames/hinges" with which I could "decouple" the fans thermically from the metal-hotends and other stuff to decrease the risk of a shorted life of those fans because of thermal stress. Having a strong 100% blow when "firing up" the duet2 helps keep the dust out.
you should also consider how the remote Signal wire is connected to the PSU (physically). I've used a similar Meanwell PSU before, and have not been able to find the matching connector anywhere. You'd have to contact single pins inside the small connector on the PSU (not sure if 1,27 or 2,54 mm spacing).
The easier and more hassle-free way would be to use a relay to switch the Input power to the 24 V PSU. @Jacotheron described this above and in more detail in his answer to my question here. Thank you again.
Best regards, Niklas
@b0m0a0k said in Duet3d WiFi - MOSFET usage:
Not sure if this helps, but based on the comments I understand that the requirement for a MOSFET is something I could add if I want additional protection. Historically it was fitted to the Wanhao i3 to address reports of melted wiring.
Ad the others have pointed out, you'll be fine for the built in mosfets with those numbers, but you could always add an external as it would be easier to replace if it should get damaged due to a fault.
as far as melted wiring goes the only cure for that is thicker wires, or higher voltage and lower currents. (i.e ~100w bed at 12v pulls ~8A needs thicker wires than 100w bed at 24 which only pulls ~4A)