@supraguy said in Prusa style display:
The 20 X 04 (They're 20 columns, not 16) controllers are not supported on any Duets so far as I know. It's a pity, because I have 4 of the things.
After I made my post I remembered that they are 20*4 display.
The 12864 full graphic controllers are supported (more or less) on the Maestro, but not on the Duet Ethernet/Wifi.
There has been some talk from some people on making a hardware interface that would allow you to plug in the other controllers, kind of like the board that let you plug it into the original RAMPS boards, but the 2004 controller apparently has the highest demands in terms of I/O pins. It's probably easier to get the SD card slot working than the display itself.
For the basic parallel dot matrix display (like the 20*4) it can interface with a 3.3v system. The displays are TTL logic, so no "drivers" or "level translators" are needed. A 120 ohm to 240 ohm (depending on various things like io diode current) resister in series with the data bus would be the only thing needed to protect the Duet Incase there is a bus conflict. I've done it many times before, using a 3.3v microprocessor to control a standard dot matrix display.
I have been looking at hacking together a solution where I just use an 8-bit Arduino to talk to the Duet and run the controller, because I have a pile of Arduino Mega 2560 boards and RAMPS 1.4 boards, with a couple of the interface boards to the 2004 controller, but I haven't got very far.
That would be an interesting idea.
I will have to figure out how to do the programming to get one to work.
@boldnuts said in Faulty smart Effector:
Yes that's correct dc42, I am using the E3D 24V 40W heater cart,https://e3d-online.com/standard-heater-cartridge, is this ok?
40W is on the high side, but as you are using 24V power I'm surprised there was a problem.
More good to know, but I've also got a 1A fuse on the 12V supply, right at the buck/boost. The supply is supposed to be capable of supplying 5A, but I have the fuse at the supply. I'll add that i have a 15A fuse at the 24V PSU, since there's about 450mm of wire between it and the Duet where the input power fuse is.
I'm a car guy. We believe in fuses at the power source.
Yes, it looks like your motors have nonstandard wire colours. This can easily happen if the motors have plug-and-socket connectors on them, and the motors and the cables were not made by the same company.
When you have the motors wired correctly, with power off on the Duet and the motor connected to the 4-pin connector on the Duet, you should measure a few ohms resistance between the 2 pins at one end of the connector, also a few homes resistance between the 2 pins at the other end, and infinity (or several megohms) between the other pairs of pins.
When you connected 2 motors to the Za and Zb connectors, I guess the crossed wires in the 2 sets of cables cancelled out, because Za and Zb on the Duet are in series.
Fortunately, the short-to-ground detection in the drivers appears to have kicked in fast enough to avoid damage to the drivers.
Burned drivers are rare now. There a time nearly 2 years ago when too many drivers were popping, but we changed our testing to test them at a higher voltage in order to weed out weak ones, and after we complained to Trinamic about the failure rate we think they improved their QA too.
The things I know of that do burn out drivers are:
Shorting two of the 4 output wires to each other, or shorting one of them to ground or VIN;
Connecting the motor to the driver incorrectly. It's important to connect the two wires belonging to one phase of the motor to the two pins at one end of the 4-pin connector on the Duet, and the 2 wires belonging to the other phase to the 2 pins at the other end. If you get it wrong then this leads to high currents, which may cause failure of the driver.
Using excessive VIN voltage is also likely to damage drivers, so the VIN voltage should not exceed 25V. This allows a margin of safety, because it's not until you get above 28V that damage is likely.
A classic way to damage stepper drivers is to disconnect the motors while they are powered. Although in my tests on the Duet, in the TMC2660 drivers survived this repeatedly - see the video I posted.
[Edited - added item #4]
@dc42 Good to know. In that case, the 64/40 would most certainly void the warranty. Although I do have lead-free solder, about the only solder tools that I have that wouldn't be lead contaminated would be the ones that I use for plumbing.
Among other hobbies, I build audio amplifiers and sound processors. Much of that is through-hole soldering, but there's also a reasonable amount of SMD stuff in the signal processing. Still, I generally accept that when I put something at the soldering station, I'm saying goodbye to any kind of warranty.
The PA20 crimper is fairly good tool, it is expensive considering that it likely cost 50cents to make or less. But, it is a kewl tool as it crimps many of the popular connector pins hobbyiest use.
Thanks - that might help me.
I just ordered a few pogo pins and contact pads from china (I could not find any pads for THT installation anywhere in europe).
The pins I ordered have a current rating of 1 Amp. I'll just have to look out how "stable" the connection between the carriage and the tool head is
You can find out more about my pogo-pin-solution here at step 9.
@dc42 Yes. It does not show up at all (no COM or LPT ports at all on one machine--even when 'hidden' devices were enabled to be shown.) Also no unknown devices on either machine.
I was hoping to avoid erasing the firmware... but since the 1.7v looks to be back-feeding... I'll give it a try. Thanks for you help.
@deckingman said in Controlling Electronics fan using thermistor connected to E2:
@jaw8850 Quick answer - yes you can that. Longer answer, that's very similar to what I do - take a look at this post that I made on my blog some time ago - it's a bit out of date because you no longer have to define dummy tools but you'll get the idea. https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/04/18/stepper-motor-and-electronics-cooling/
Excellent, thank you! I'll definitely check that out.
I will test, although I found another solution using the mechanical torque, rather than the power of the servo.
Thanks also for the little tip of electronics.
As I understand it with a DC-DC, there is no separate ground problem, and the resistor is only used if for example, I plug in usb, without the VIN. Because in this case, there would still be current in the servo signal pin.
@dc42 cool DC...will look around. I think @Phaedrux was correct it seems the commands between Marlin and Rep arent the same. I use S3D to write out the .gcode files and it is this software which seems to be embedding the wrong commands in the GCODE, not really Octoprint, Octoprint seems to just be issuing whatever commands are in the generated .gcode file. But yet in S3D it has the firmware selection choice one in the same for Marlin and Rep