differences between manual and automatic leveling

Gip_86 · 18 Sept 2021, 09:06

yes i have one done for the heater and the bed.

Bed:
Warning: heater behaviour was not consistent during tuning
Auto tuning heater 0 completed after 4 idle and 25 tuning cycles in 5317 seconds. This heater needs the following M307 command:
M307 H0 B0 R0.957 C113.0 D6.66 S1.00 V24.2
Edit the M307 H0 command in config.g to match this. Omit the V parameter if the heater is not powered from VIN.

Heater:

M307 H1 B0 R2.746 C97.9:59.2 D5.41 S1.00 V24.2

one question:
after firmwareupdate now it takes very long to heat up the bed. is this normal?

Blacksheep99 · 18 Sept 2021, 12:36

@gip_86 Have you got a config-override.g in your sys folder with the output of the tuning? You also need a M501 in your config.g if you do.

Gip_86 · 18 Sept 2021, 17:18

@blacksheep99

no, i have put the M307 in config directly..

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4400 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0                          ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
;M307 H0 B0 S1.00                               
M307 H0 B0 R0.957 C113.0 D6.66 S1.00 V24.2	   ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0                                        ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4400  ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1                           ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
;M307 H1 B0 S1.00                               
M307 H1 B0 R2.746 C97.9:59.2 D5.41 S1.00 V24.2 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S280                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

if i put it in override, what have i to put in?
and in config should only M501?

fcwilt · 18 Sept 2021, 19:29

@gip_86

It's perfectly fine to put everything in config.g

The config-override.g file is just to make it a bit easier as a M500 after certain operations makes the needed entries in config-override.g.

I have never used config-override.g - I move the contents to config.g and delete config-override.g

Frederick

Gip_86 · 18 Sept 2021, 20:04

@fcwilt

after pid tuning i have decided to add "R4700 behind the M308.

Now bed has heated really fast. Is there something agains R4700? I had this thing in my old config.

Now it looks like:

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4400 R4700
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4400 R4700

fcwilt · 18 Sept 2021, 20:48

@gip_86 said in differences between manual and automatic leveling:

@fcwilt

after pid tuning i have decided to add "R4700 behind the M308.

Now bed has heated really fast. Is there something agains R4700? I had this thing in my old config.

Now it looks like:

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4400 R4700
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4400 R4700

Well the R setting is supposed to match the values of the resistors on your board.

If you don't have a R setting it is supposed to default to the correct values for your board.

Frederick

Gip_86 · 19 Sept 2021, 17:16

@fcwilt

Ok, machine is now running as aspected (but without mesh compensation)

I also have designed a new holder for the probe.

So and what are the best steps for next?

fcwilt · 19 Sept 2021, 17:40

@gip_86 said in differences between manual and automatic leveling:

So and what are the best steps for next?

Have you made the configuration settings needed to use the Manual Bed Leveling Assistant?

Manual Bed Leveling Assistant

Once that is done and the bed is level you should then proceed to get Mesh Bed Compensation working.

Mesh Bed Compensation

Frederick

Gip_86 · 19 Sept 2021, 18:26

@fcwilt
ok i had done the neeed config and have leveled it. after several leveling, best i could do was about 0,03mm to adjust.

then i had done a G29 and heres the height map:

Any idears?

fcwilt · 19 Sept 2021, 18:56

@gip_86

I have four different printers all with cast aluminum tool plate for the bed and they all are different.

I haven't taken the time to find out why as they all print ok.

Gip_86 · 19 Sept 2021, 19:09

@fcwilt

Ok, I also have a casted aluminium plate which is on both sides milled. I think my FR4 plate is the reason why it is so different. It’s a bit translucent.

Tomorrow I will give a try with the mesh.

fcwilt · 19 Sept 2021, 19:22

@gip_86 said in differences between manual and automatic leveling:

@fcwilt

Ok, I also have a casted aluminium plate which is on both sides milled. I think my FR4 plate is the reason why it is so different. It’s a bit translucent.

Tomorrow I will give a try with the mesh.

I would agree the FR4 is likely the issue.

Frederick

Gip_86 · 19 Sept 2021, 19:27

@fcwilt

Yes but it’s a good Surface to print.

Could it help to decrease the probing points?

Or could it help to do a sanding of it?

fcwilt · 19 Sept 2021, 19:57

@gip_86 said in differences between manual and automatic leveling:

Yes but it’s a good Surface to print.

I use a number of different print surfaces - all of the removable kind held in place by magnetic force.

I like being able to separately chose the bed heater, the bed material and the bed surface - the goal being to have the best combination of parts.

Could it help to decrease the probing points?

No, that would just hide the errors - to get the best results from using mesh compensation you would increase the number of points

Or could it help to do a sanding of it?

The changes you see in the height map are actually quite small - sanding would likely make things worse.

engikeneer · 19 Sept 2021, 22:54

@gip_86 as @fcwilt said, I'd increase the probing points a bit. That way you can look for obvious points that are wrong and manually change then in the .csv file

You could also use the A and S parameters in your ~~G31~~ M558 to do repeated probing at different points to improve accuracy.

Final point, my heightmap on my corexy is a lot worse than yours because my gantry sags a bit. However, I still get pretty good results with mesh compensation enabled so have not bothered to redesign it. Ultimately what matters is if you get good prints, not whether you have a perfectly flat heightmap (though we'd all love that! )

Edit: corrected reference to M558

Marcossf · 23 Sept 2021, 10:16

@engikeneer said in

You could also use the A and S parameters in your G31 to do repeated probing at different points to improve accuracy.

I can't see in the Gcode dictionary the A option in the G31 command. How it works?

     G31: Set or Report Current Probe status
     Usage

     G31 Pnnn Xnnn Ynnn Znnn Cnnn Snnn

I'd like to get two/three probes in each probe point having a median to improve the probe accuracy.

engikeneer · 23 Sept 2021, 10:29

@marcossf apologies, its M558 where you specify the A & S parameters for repeated probing... Will update my post

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/M558

Marcossf · 23 Sept 2021, 10:35

@engikeneer Ok, thanks. I'll try M558 A option.

Gip_86 · 11 Oct 2021, 12:18

so after several days of trying to get good results i have decided to unmount the IR Probe. It make no sense with my FR4 Plate.

does Anyone have ga good magnetic plate which will work with the IR sensor??
Bed temp could be 90 degree max

Thank you

o_lampe · 11 Oct 2021, 12:18

@gip_86 I visited the IR-probe category, because I have made a magnetic flexplate with 1mm pertinax (phenol resin). It came sanded on one side from the vendor and because it's darker and opaque than FR4 it triggers the IR sensor well.
I had issues at first, because I powered the probe from 5V. With 3.3V it's much better.
Still my heightmaps look horrible, even when I remove the pertinax and probe the magnetic sheet instead.
Pertinax

Mag-sheet only (with a glitch!, surface too shiny?)

So it's either a not so flat mag-sheet (bought from a site for magnetic car advertising)
or the cast aluminum plate is bent...