any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?



  • I've built a corexy and I found a cable with 12x0.22mm² + 2x0.75mm² wires (about AWG24 + 18). That would be just enough for 2 fans+thermistor+probe+heater+stepper. I was wondering what could be a nice connector I could use able to handle the 50W heater (and everything else) and possibly that is not bigger than the head itself 🙂

    The best I could think of is a D-SUB DB15 or VGA, looking at some datasheet they claim 5A per contact which is insane 🙂 but maybe you are aware of some better connector.

    thanks!



  • xt60 for hotend and cat5+rj45 for everything else.



  • @matt3o Molex Microfit 3



  • i found this quite interesting, although I doubt i'll try it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-izkShIDXU

    (XT60 is a nice connector for high current, but its rated for 60A and just ever so slightly overkill for a hotend)



  • Use a D-Sub whatever, with pins in parallel for the heater.



  • Another vote for the D-sub, but the regular 2-row type. Much easier to solder on, more robust pins.
    D-subs are very robust connectors for very little money.

    There is also a smaller XT connector BTW: the XT30.



  • Was about to ask a very similar questions but minus the probe, Dsub 15 looks like it'll do the trick very nicely!



  • I would still recommend the Molex Microfit 3.0 series which can be had unto 24 way so more than enough also much lighter than D-Sub connectors.

    Microfit 3.0 series



  • I use the microfits in other places and like them but I also use RJ45 for the hot-end signal and low power stuff and simple spade connectors for the hot-end.



  • @Dougal1957 said in any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?:

    Molex Microfit 3.0 series

    I've used these on other things, and they do work very well. Were it me, I'd be comfortable with my own "psuedo-standard" connector for a standard tool, meaning:

    • Stepper (4)
    • Sensor/thermistor (2)
    • Heater (2)
    • Hot end fan (2)
    • Part fan (2)
    • Sensor for tool alignment(2)

    Total 14, with no allowance for future expansion.

    From USA supplier Mouser, 16 position are actually slightly cheaper than 14, and I like the expansion possibility:

    Receptacle Pins
    Plug Pins

    With no expansion, and no extra sensor, 10 position will work.



  • thanks guys, haven't though about using molex, but it actually makes sense. way easier to handle than dsubs and more flexible!



  • @matt3o Not sure if this would work for you (see pics).

    IMG_9232.jpg
    IMG_9230.jpg
    IMG_9229.jpg

    Using extension/adapter cables or adding connectors to a harness adds bulk and creates potential failure points.

    I found this method to be the best. If anything needs to be changed, its simple. Supports up to 16 terminal points.

    All that's missing is a printed label plaque



  • @bricor thanks, that is also pretty clever and super easy if you need to change parts



  • Check out this project:
    https://www.hackster.io/viktorsilivanov/quick-swap-board-for-3d-printer-hotend-fb26e4

    @matt3o I'd be interested to know where you found that cable.

    I had some boards made and have populated but not installed yet, they'll be part of a new build.
    26365810-5c75-43cc-aca8-efaef310edad-image.png



  • Just a thought, you can distribute high currents over two wires and/or contacts. This may give you more flexibility. Also, Some wires can be merged, e.g. the +24V for heater and fans.

    (Duet people mentioned in the past a possibility for smart head board that just need power and CANBUS data, this would make requirements like yours easier to solve).



  • @littlehobbyshop that is very close that what I was planning to do, with less fancy PCB and more DIY 🙂 The cable is from a local supplier but I believe they can be easily found. They are sold as "security/alarm cables" they come in many variants.

    @zapta at the moment I'm only sharing the positive leads of the fans, that's all I need but I'll check what else I could share. thanks!



  • So I decide to go the Molex Microfit way on a toolchanger. Purchased Molex 16 pin, m/f, pins, etc. Pleasantly enough, they were smaller than I'd thought.

    This is working out well, the connectors are great... but... do be aware it is labor intensive. Every wire going to a tool now requires three crimps. One for the Duet board, one for the male molex, and one for the female molex. I haven't even gotten one tool completely setup!

    Not saying anyone should/shouldn't... just be aware.

    IMG_0214.jpeg



  • @Danal they are indeed smaller than I thought!

    I got used to crimping, that wouldn't be a big issue. Still not sure if I want to go with a more polished solution (like the one posted by @littlehobbyshop ).

    I've also found connectors with dedicated pins for power, but let's not go overboard 🙂

    thanks for your report btw!



  • I'm using Wago 221 for everything.

    This relieves me from soldering and I can throw out the old fans without working.


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