@wilriker
The wire on the heated bed pcb (or any other heater element) are behaving like resistors. If you are supplying power to a resistor, it heats up. Lets see some examples for a standard 12V heated bed:
(looks like this:)

|--------A
|--------|
         |
|--------|
|--------B

U = 12V
R = 1 Ohm (This is a standard resistance for a 12V bed).
I = U / R ==> 12 / 1 = 12 Amp of current flows threw the bed.
P = U * I ==> 12V * 12A = 144W heat is being generated by our bed.

Let's see the same example with 24V supplied:
U = 24V
R = 1 Ohm (This is a standard resistance for a 12V bed).
I = U / R ==> 24 / 1 = 24 Amp of current flows threw the bed.
P = U * I ==> 24V * 24A = 576W heat is being generated by our bed, which is quadruple.

Now let's say, that the bed is actually 4 Ohm of resistance (this is a sandard 24V bed), but you put a third shoulder pad in the middle:

|--------A
|--------|
         |C
|--------|
|--------B

The resistance between A and C is 2 ohms, and B and C is 2 ohms aswell.
If you connect A and B to + and C to -, then now you connected the two resistances (a-c and c-b) in parallel, so their resistance becames the half of each, so 1 ohms. 1 Ohm, 12V = 144W (see the calculation above)

But of you connect A to + and B to - (and leave C unconnected) then you conected the resistances in serial, so their resistance adds up to 4 Ohm:
Let's see the same example with 24V supplied:
U = 24V
R = 4 Ohm
I = U / R ==> 24 / 4 = 6 Amp of current flows threw the bed.
P = U * I ==> 24V * 6A = 144W heat is being generated by our bed, which is the same as using the bed from 12V and connecting the resistances in parallel, So now your bed can be used in either 12 or 24V and generates the same 144W, you just have to rewire it to your needs.

@Milan

What you're describing (rambling, clicking, not turning) is a tell tale sign of missed steps, which can be caused by disconnected phases.

You mentioned a cable swap, which is a good start, but this could be a contact error on the motor itself for example.

If you use a motor with somekind of connector on it, maybe that connector is faulty, or if the motor has leads maybe one of those are broken.

unlikely, but if the cable is loose (for ex. not ziptied), than it can also be a broken connector on the duet itself revealed only when the cable is at a certain position, flexing the connector a certain way

If I were you, I would check everything: Connectors, cables, motor, etc. Try to reproduce the error, and start flexing connectors and stuff

@sniper23 If you drive an 50W 12V heater from 24V then it's actually 200W. Since you draw 8.3A from a circuit not designed to handle that (according to this 6.7A max: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/1925/max-hot-end-heater-current/7) you can blow the mosfet easy. If you do that, or the duet fw freezes for any reason, then you'll probably have a fire on your hands caused by molten aluminum dripping on your printed part and other stuff. So, !!please!! stop using it and find out what you're dealing with before that happens!

@dc42
Thanks for the info!

A behaviour suggestion if i may:
-The sorting could be implemented in the duet fw, not dwc.
-The board could send down the first ~25 entries initially (the first 25 of the sorted list), then send the follow-up entries threw page turning or infinite scrolling

Or at least a warning that "there are too many files in this directory, not all files are shown".

@saltypetz said in Need Help dc42:

Probe deployment routine for BLTouch

This line is a comment so it should start with ";"

Another way:

If this plunger is controlled threw a stepper, then I assume that you set the tube's internal diameter as the fillament diameter in the slicer, and configured the duet steps/mm accordingly.
Therefore (when you hit the empty endstop) you know your position, so, you can send a relative (negative) extrusion of the tube length to return it to the initial position.

As to my knowledge they put a sticker on the main cpu with some numbers ... probably some sort of serial on the genuine ones.

As of the bed problem, the switching FET is VERY robust:
If the psu could maintain the 24V under such load, then you subjected your duet to ~35A of current.
to be able to hold the 24V it would have to be rated to at least 830W which would make a crazy powerful 24V psu! So it would probably decrease the voltage, or shut down alltogether...
Bur regardless, the bed heater fet is rated much more than 35A, so if you have a problem with your board, and its a genuine one, then it's probably a burnt wire on the pcb or something like that, if so, you could find it and could bridge it with an external wire.

@dc42 A bit of additional information, I tried setting the correct rod length length in config, removing the heightmap, removing the config override, rebooting, and checking movements, and in this case a pure Y movement caused the head height to change also (Y-100 caused the head to get closer to the bed).

Current tool position could be nice, During multi-hotend, pressure advance and retraction calibration it would allow printing multiple lines / objects with different offsets, and then manually jogging the head to the correct one and selecting that.

I think that E3D guys already requested this feature a few months back.

Also, floor, ceil, round? functions would be useful.

@oliof
1_1566808652282_fan5_no_nut_slot.stl
0_1566808652282_fan5.stl

To make the cooling homogenous I use 3 of theese with weeker fans

Hi!,

Is there a way, or with the mew 3.01 features will there be a way to calculate the extra prime amount from the time between retract and unretract? It would make it possible to counteract the oozing during travel, and eliminate the blobs when there are multiple retracts/unretracts concentrated over a small area. Maybe something like the tool change macro?

Thanks,
Denes.

@dc42
Trying to update from :
Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.0RC1 (2019-12-16b8)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23
Duet Web Control 2.0.4

to this release, but I get:
"Error: In-application programming binary "Duet2CombinedIAP.bin" not found".

I can see the thread https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13401/cant-change-from-v3-0-to-v2-05-missing-file
So I added "Duet2CombinedIAP.bin" from 3.0RC1 is this OK? is this normal? If so, could you please add the "compatible IAP" to the release notes? Or is this a one time thing and we don't have to worry about it anymore?

Thanks!

Current tool position could be nice, During multi-hotend, pressure advance and retraction calibration it would allow printing multiple lines / objects with different offsets, and then manually jogging the head to the correct one and selecting that.

I think that E3D guys already requested this feature a few months back.

Also, floor, ceil, round? functions would be useful.

@deckingman
Thanks for your reply!

Since I changed my old aluminum block to a wew cartridge type copper one, I need to buy a reliable cartridge. I wanted to bear down on the quality side, I just could not imagine why do people buy the pt100 when it has many problems (like the one You experienced) and it needs extra cabling and hardware, whereas they could just go for the pt1000.
Since a quality cartridge thermistor (with known values...) is comparable in price with a pt1000, I decided on the later one, and just wanted some comfirmation. Thanks everyone for the valuable info!

It's probably caused by a large thermal mass, like a copper or brass block instead of the usual aluminum.

I had the same problem when I switched to copper block, the PID autotune solved the issue for me:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control

Thanks @dc42 !

But I surmise they are still way better then thermistors, right?

So, I'd like to ask for a piece of your experience ... Why do everyone go for a pt100 sensor despite the additional cabling, daughterboard, etc. instead of a pt1000 which is 2wire and natively supported?

I looked at comparisons and cewed threw multiple related topics around the net, but I could not find the reason. What am I missing?

@sniper23 If you drive an 50W 12V heater from 24V then it's actually 200W. Since you draw 8.3A from a circuit not designed to handle that (according to this 6.7A max: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/1925/max-hot-end-heater-current/7) you can blow the mosfet easy. If you do that, or the duet fw freezes for any reason, then you'll probably have a fire on your hands caused by molten aluminum dripping on your printed part and other stuff. So, !!please!! stop using it and find out what you're dealing with before that happens!

I agree, this would be useful!

@skayred Probably not ... maybe if you have many perimiters, but unlikely