Thanks for clarifying when I looked at the schematic I actually wasn't sure if I need jumper in the pin you circled as number 1 to use the built in 12v. Now I know thx i think the schematic could use more clarification on that 12v jumper

Vase mode?

hello

I was playing with similar idea and have found that for FSR to be consistent you really have to slow down the speed.

https://youtu.be/zBXN_6AAWp0

Hi,

Is it possible to wire up some physical push button and assign macro to it?

Thanks,
Stephen

I believe it should be subtract to increase gap between nozzle and bed

and add to decrease gap between nozzle and bed

another example finish

With 160C standby you don't need to purge anything. And browning will actually be an issue only if you standby too long such as second toolhead only start printing halfway up the print. In that case lower the standby temp to 95C

I also have a metal shim that will block the tip of the nozzle when parked. So this has been good enough to maintain the pressure.

The inactive hotend will always be above 45c in both scenario so the fan blowing the heatsink is always on for the duration of print

Thanks
Stephen

Nice machine! love the sound the machine made while traveling.

hey all thx for all the help I now have this thing running as I have wanted it to which is to print dual with no heat bed and no filament waste. peace

https://youtu.be/63oRt82uHOI

I've built something small and good looking though I wouldn't say my machine is operator friendly…

[solved]

I have a very short ptfe betwee bondtech and e3d heatsink. Turns out I had used the wrong nozzle size.. I installed 0.25mm and when slicing I set it as though it's a 0.3mm nozzle… This result in too much pressure in the ptfe and bondtech never slips so it pushes down the e3d hence giving me false thinking that the z tower on right side appear to struggle...