I had a similar idea last winter: Imagine, having about 25 different PWM sections in the Nano and using it to not only control LEDs in different modes, but also relays and other stuff in some fashion of a sub-program.
It's no competitor for the developing system using meta-commands and variables, but could be useful to trigger a lot of stuff with just one PWM-output of the Duet.
/Julien
Tbh i dont see any isolation on this board aside the "isolation of load and control area" via the relay itself.
You have some flyback diodes on the control side but thats it. the black thingys are just transistors. You could put some 3V3 on the VCC pin, but that has to be at least 500mA or so because it is used to drive the coil of the relay. DO NOT try to drive this board with the IO-pins itself, the current draw is too high.
If you want real opto-isolation (which is preferable), you should use a board like this one:
Keep you eyes open for the bulky black boxes with two terminals on each side. Those are the optocouplers.
Greetings from sunny germany,
Julien
@OwenD said in Finding out names of parameters and variables:
Changed example to use M190
And this was the point.
Your adaption of M190 doesn't work, but: I figured out a solution.
Taking the subtraction into a seperate variable makes it work. I think, you can't calculate inside a G or M-Command.
Thanks a bunch to you guys, now i know the syntax, and how to get the parameters and declaring and using variables.
It would be very helpful, if i wouldn't have overlooked the G-Codes in the Dozuki and the very good PDF-Manual, that is pinned on top of this category (my bad)...
Here is my working example:
while (heat.heaters[0].active > 60) && (heat.heaters[0].current > 60) && (heat.heaters[0].state = "active")
var cooltemp = {heat.heaters[0].active}
set var.cooltemp = var.cooltemp -1
M190 P0 R{var.cooltemp}
echo "wait"
G4 S60
echo "cooldown finished"
I will expand upon it and make it more versatile, ex. add in a real cooldown funktion, that works for ABS.
Edit: Oh yeah, and i had to update everything to 3.3RC2 or course.
@fcwilt said in Designing a PWM to Analog mini board for fans:
You asked for a PM but I don't know what that is.
PM = personal message, so just chat
/Julien
According to the documentation the fuse should be intact, because all other temps are working properly.
Why could it read open circuit?
Stupid me has had a connection issue, where i had the sensor between, VSSA and VAREV and the pullup between VSSA and input7...
Everything is working fine now, thanks a bunch alan!
@tenaja
The name of the endstop doesn't change, no matter what is connected to it.
You can look all the (with the current config.g) addressable parameters and variables under
There you have to activate the object model browser plugin. After that, it appears under the settings-tab.
/Julien
@Egon-Net said in Designing a PWM to Analog mini board for fans:
Anyone wants to betatest a board from this first batch once arrives?
Meine Platine ist angekommen, sieht wirklich ordentlich aus.
/Julien
Still testing, should be ready tomorrow or wednesday.
Tbh i dont see any isolation on this board aside the "isolation of load and control area" via the relay itself.
You have some flyback diodes on the control side but thats it. the black thingys are just transistors. You could put some 3V3 on the VCC pin, but that has to be at least 500mA or so because it is used to drive the coil of the relay. DO NOT try to drive this board with the IO-pins itself, the current draw is too high.
If you want real opto-isolation (which is preferable), you should use a board like this one:
Keep you eyes open for the bulky black boxes with two terminals on each side. Those are the optocouplers.
Greetings from sunny germany,
Julien
This is just awesome!
The current of the pins should pose no real problem, since the inputs of the relayboards are conneted via isolators - i just need to check, if 3V3 is sufficient.
I will give an update, when i did the wiring.
/Julien
Sorry for the late reply.
Yes, i only need IOs for relays, so no PWM.
The documentation said that every other pin (for ex. endstops) are just inputs? If they could be configured as outputs, than its easy game.
Would you be so kind to point out which pins can be used as outputs (for relays) and how to configure them? That would be a huge help.
/Julien
@droftarts
Well, thats too bad (for now).
So I2C-expander it is, for the next project.
Thanks for the useful information.
/Julien
My dearest co-printers, i have a (maybe simple) question:
Which pins on a Duet 2 WiFi expansion-header can be used for GIPO-pins?
Of course its the remaining five heaters (no probs there). I need up to 8 additional pins for controlling relays. Is it possible to use the EN-pins of the unused extruders?
If yes, please help me with the definition of the following. How do i clear and redefine an extruder pin correctly?
M950 P8 C"^exp.e5_en" ; printstate red
Many thanks in advance and greetings from stormy gemany,
Julien
I don't think its ringing either.
Can you measure the pitch of the waves? If it matches the pitch of your belt, then this is a possible cause.
I had a similar issue, until i switched to genuine GATES-belts. Chinese belts seem to always be a little off regarding the profile of the teeth.
/Julien
Hmm...
I think 0.4mm (total tolerance) per meter is pretty good for a plate of about 5-8mm thickness. Adding up to this comes the tension in the plate due to heating up bottom to top and the tension due to thermal expansion while being fixed on standoffs. Depending on your standoff-positioning you could deform the bed if you use more than 3 screws. There is also the deformation due to its own weight...
Did you contact clever3D and ask for a thicker plate? For everything over 300mm per side i think the plate must be ticker than the usual 8mm - should be more like 10-12mm.
Have you measured your bed with a BL-Touch for example? How is the heightmap looking?
/Julien
Feel free to contact Clever3D.
They are from germany (my homeland) and specialize in Heatbeds. They could also arrange a suitable heating mat if desired.
/Julien
Bummer.
I have another circuit (@Egon-Net for the big fan), which should have a ripple around 30mV.
It shows me a ripple of 28V... i think my oscilloscope is not working right.
I have a replacement in delivery, so i should be able to make all my desired measurements around the weekend. Sorry for the delay.
/Julien
Still testing, should be ready tomorrow or wednesday.