In any machine control software I've seen, the speed and extrusion multipliers are in addition to the slicer settings. In other words, the control software doesn't know (or care) what the percentage of any slicer value was set to.

So, if the slicer extrusion factor is set to 90%, all the extrusion vales in the gcode will have taken the 90% in to account. If the control software (e.g. DWC) extrusion factor is now set (by you) to 90%, it will be 90%, of the 90% value generated by your slicer.

Try placing a small dish of water on the bed, under the nozzle, to help visualize the air flow.

@martin1454 said in Duet Wifi limitations - what are your experiences?:

12V fans on a 24V setup is only possible with external hardware (duex5 or an regulator)

Just to clarify, the external hardware is simply to supply the 12V. It can be a $3 buck regulator from eBay or Amazon. A wiring example is here.

My printers (one WiFi, one ethernet) are maybe 10 feet from my computer, so I don't bother with a PanelDue.

Like @deckingman and others here, I would use it when swapping hot-ends (and sometimes their associated extruder steppers) on the same machine. Currently managing multiple config.g files by renaming them gets awkward.

I believe @FunBogMan is referring to adding features in DWC. I would also second this, but in conjunction would like to see:

1. Clearly obvious indication of which configuration was currently in use
2. Requiring at least 2 clicks/taps to change configuration (i.e. initial choice, then confirmation)
3. Provide the option to change the color scheme uniquely to each configuration, helping to provide the information for #1.

Overall, this is a very handy potential improvement.

I can't find the link right now, but it clearly gave information that the minimum turn radius for steel-corded GT2 belts was larger than even 20-tooth pulleys. Consequently, the thin cords work harden and snap, allowing the rubber to stretch.

Thanks for the input, guys. I've since had a brief conversation with Haydn, and he stated that he hasn't had a single request for larger diameter arms in 360mm length or shorter. He did state he's done larger diameter with longer arms, though. He again stated that his normal 0.230" is plenty sufficient for 360mm & below, and likely somewhat longer, too.

I did see on his site that he recommends a dab of lube in each joint (he applies with a Q-tip). I think I'll try that soon.

Wow. Kinda bitter, eh? Oh, and thanks for labeling hundreds or possibly a few thousand of your fellow hobbyists as "gullible." It's not like we all are chemists or deal with tubing professionally.

I'm just a customer, not involved with their company in any other way. However, they do specify the tolerance of both styles for 1.75mm, though for 2.85 filament I only saw the ID spec'd (though I didn't look too hard). And, if it isn't PTFE, they go to a lot of trouble discussing and providing safety considerations for it. If their tubing was involved in a fire, and somehow didn't behave like PTFE, there's room for litigation. That would be a huge risk on their part.

Is it an existing commercial product that they're putting a spin on? Perhaps. But the vast majority of hardware used in our printers either already existed commercially, or is only a step away. Are they making an obscene profit off it? Perhaps, but if their tubing really is what they claim it to be, they undoubtedly invested a lot of time and money before they ever turned a profit, and deserve to be rewarded. That's called entrepreneurship.

Not your preferred choice, but I do it in S3D. My normal end script:

M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 S0 ; turn off part fans
G28 ; home axes
M84 ; disable motors

That's a very nice write-up for your vacuum dryer. I may investigate it myself. I currently use a large food dehydrator for the filament, and a small convection oven for silica gel, but they each just dump the humidity back into the room. I already have a nice vacuum pump, so I'd save on that.

Back to the original issue - check to make sure you don't have a Z offset somewhere in your slicer settings. I'm not familiar with Cura, but I know other slicers have a section to add X, Y & Z offsets to any movement commands.

As others have mentioned above, I've frequently read that ATX supplies are designed to have some load on each rail/voltage supply to work properly. Without that loading, any given voltage may not not perform anywhere near spec.

Personally, I was happy to leave computer supplies behind a few years ago and go with proper power supplies. At least in the States, MeanWell supplies work very well and are <$30 for the sizes used in printers, and are smaller as well.

Thanks for all the information, everyone. I'm of the opinion now that a small amount of preload is desirable, which rules out the Misumi Standard Grade. The HiWin sets are specified as "Z0 - very light preload" with (apparently) 0µm clearance. The Misumi High Grade are listed as "-3 - 0 µm" clearance.

Based on experience posted here, I would think either is fine for typical printers. I actually have been very pleased with the stainless RobotDigg rails & guides I used on my delta. However, my RailCore is worth the extra money

I'm planning on upgrading the linear guides that are currently in my RailCore (core XY printer with 3 independent Z leadscrews & rails for bed leveling, 2 parallel X rails, single Y rail). Has anyone tried the Misumi standard grade guides? From my interpretation of specs, they seem identical to HiWin's normal grade for not much more money. One concern with the Misumi standard grade though is no preload. Opinions?

And if I were to only buy 3 guides initially, would they be of better use on the 3 Z motors, or on X & Y?

@danal It's not cheap, but Zoro has your size. I bought a 12x24" sheet, cut 1/2 of it down to fit my delta, and used the same piece on glass for 3+ years. I still use it occasionally, but have primarily switched to thinner adhesive PEI on a flex steel sheet from TH3D. Yeah, it isn't round, but works great for the price.

Bear in mind that if 1.8deg steppers are used for Z, I believe the leadscrew pitch will need to be changed as well, to achieve the correct stepping. I don't know the exact pitch to use, but a web search should get you the answer. Perhaps @kraegar or @jstevewhite (co-developers of the RailCore) will jump in with the correct value.

I do know the BOM uses a particular 0.9deg & leadscrew pairing, while the ProjectR3D kit uses 1.8deg steppers with a different leadscrew pitch to achieve the same 0.01 stepping.

That's a very nice write-up for your vacuum dryer. I may investigate it myself. I currently use a large food dehydrator for the filament, and a small convection oven for silica gel, but they each just dump the humidity back into the room. I already have a nice vacuum pump, so I'd save on that.

I haven't tried this yet myself, but I would think you'd want to see an even depression in the water, centered around the nozzle. You don't want air blowing on the nozzle, so the depression would look like a doughnut/torus, with the water level under the nozzle not depressed.

Getting a fan duct to do this, is another story. Obviously circular ducts, like Berd Air, can do it more easily than others. OTOH, it doesn't have to be perfect - just better than whatever you're using now

I read it elsewhere. I'm not that ingenious.

Try placing a small dish of water on the bed, under the nozzle, to help visualize the air flow.

This one has become popular on the RailCore II coreXY printers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3367622. One fellow did mod his further by adding a small hole in the center, between the two primary outlets. This design is actually similar to MHackney's tusk technique.