@Phaedrux ok, sorry about that confusion. I wasn’t sure what part of the code to input into my homez file at first but it works now. Thanks.
Best posts made by aprz
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RE: z probe not displaying under sensor status web controller
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RE: Trouble with first test print
its saying that my g code is spam. I don't know why it doesn't want to submit? i tried submitting portions of it but still says the same thing.
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Future changes to limitations for filament sensor configuration
Somethings I would like to be able to do using a basic filament runout sensor.
I'm looking into having a duet Magnetic filament sensor( M591 D0 P3 C"20.io1.in" S1) near the extruder connected to the tool board mainly for detecting precise filament movement and the other one, a Dyzen filament sensor(M591 D0 P1 C"0.io3.in" S1) that only detects filament runout as a back up sensor at the other end of the long Bowden tube. The dozuki page of limitations show that this option will not be supported. I understand that "Filament monitors must be connected to the same board as the corresponding extruder motor. This use so that the firmware can correlate the measured filament movement and the commanded extruder movement in real time." to avoid any miss reading but I just need the filament runout sensor at the other end of the Bowden tube to alert me if the filament just runs out(nothing to do with filament movement readings) that's what i would have the duet magnetic sensor for mainly. I understand the Duet magnetic sensor could do the same and i could run the Dyzen runout sensor wires to the tool board but id like to avoid having so many wires running from inside to outside the printers chamber.
If i can just configure a simple sensor to detect runout on an extruder running on a separate board that uses P1 that would be great. besides that the duet hardware and software is great. Thanks for all the help aswell.
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RE: New firmware issue - temp not reading
ok thanks i thought i just had to do one single update after sending the sudo apt-get update and sudo ad-get upgrade. well, problem is fixed.
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RE: duet 3 connecting z probe inductive sensor
Ok never mind the resistors, I’ll try that out later but I just ordered another probe that is a npn swapped it out. It works just had to fix a couple wiring issues but anyone out there wanting to use a inductive sensor make sure it’s a npn inductive sensor, also the sensor works with the 3.3v power in the io5 pin and didn’t need to wire it to the vin or 12v. I have the brown going to 3.3v, the blue going to ground and the black going to “io5.in”. Well thanks for the help problem solved.
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Trouble with first test print
So I’m ready to print or at least I think I am. Calibrated the extruder, set the mesh compensation, and all axis home as they should.
Issue is as it homes the x y and z axis, heats up the nozzle, and z goes back down it begins to extrude the Filament but it doesn’t move the x or y axis. I’m not sure what to do.
I’m using the cura slicer and using a level bed test print and cube.
Duet 3 board and 3.3.1 rrf
Here’s the link to the print
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Faulty heater from manufacturer/supplier
Warning to anyone considering purchasing a heater from a Chinese company to (save money) be cautious about buying from there as it’s not UL rated(from my research). I purchased a very large heater from a supplier in China and I had a licensed electrician come install everything needed to run it( he was skeptical about the heater and only helped with the circuit breaker and outlet). Then two months later after running the heater up to 100c (because the build plate is a 1/4 inch thick and heat transfer is low) the heater started smoking by the wire leading out of the base of the heater. Photos attached..... lesson learned and could have led to a fire. I won’t be buying a heater from that specific Chinese company again. Now I’m looking for a US manufacturer that can make a heater so it’s gonna be pricey but you get what you pay for($180). BTW the heater is “rated” for 120c max and the configuration was 120v at 3000w at 30a which was doable and the electrician confirmed it but recommended a 240v when using that much power next time to reduce the amps. So I won’t be cheap when it comes to heaters and high powered units like this from now on.