Thinking about it, it may be due to heat dissipation. The assumption is that the the X and Y driver would work hardest, so having the most copper around them makes sense, so put them in the middle.
So out of curiosity, why are the steppers numberred this way. There must be a logical reason behind it I'm not seeing.
I’m really not sure! The earliest Duets v0.6 used the same order but with only one extruder, but earlier electronics like the Melzi and Sanguinololu didn’t. So I’m not sure where it came from. Maybe @T3P3Tony or @dc42 knows?
@Nemesis1782 i explained this before, but without the driver numbers. The board has the drivers physically labelled on the PCB as:
ZA/ZB, Y, X, E0, E1
Driver numbers associated with these are:
2, 1, 0, 3, 4
In older firmware, these were automatically assigned. With RRF3, there are no default assignments, but the physical order of the drivers, and their assigned number, persists.
@CADavy The config on the supplied SD card sets reasonably conservative motor settings, and sets the motor current to 1000mA, which shouldn’t have caused a problem if you just jogged the axis on the PanelDue, even if the motor was mis-wired.
Did you run '04-Test_motors' macro from the SD card? The macros on the SD card are for testing the Duet at the factory, not for testing your machine. It sets the motor to 2A, as well as trying to move the axes at high speed, and for 2 metres! In the test rig at the factory, it is just a motor, not connected. So please DO NOT USE the macros on the SD card for testing your machine. Follow the commissioning advice here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Step_by_step_guide#Section_Commissioning_tests
If you have these macros on the SD card, this also means you have slightly older board, as we changed the SD card contents to remove these macros a little while ago. Can you post the number on the sticker on the processor? Also, please tell me when and where you bought it.
My main concern is that your motor is damaged, and plugging it in may damage any board you plug it into. It’s possible that it was wired incorrectly from the factory (but unlikely if you’ve used it before), but it may have overheated and shorted out one of the coils. Please check the resistance of the coils before reconnecting it.
I’m happy to approve a warranty, so long as the board is less than six months old. You’ll need to contact the place you bought it from, and follow their warranty process. Reference this thread for warranty approval. Our warranty is here, form is at the bottom of the page: https://www.duet3d.com/warranty
If it’s out of warranty, there are a number of people in the community who can repair it, or we can supply a refurbished Duet, either on exchange or straight sale, to keep the cost down.
@CADavy Can you confirm the motor was wired to the Duet correctly? ie one phase/coil to pins 1 and 2, and the other phase/coil to pins 3 and 4. And that it hasn't shorted internally, by measuring the resistance on each phase/coil? What motor is it, what is it's current rating, and what motor current was set with M906 when the driver died?
Is it possible I was sent a refurbed board ?
I very much doubt it. The board pins will have been hand soldered in the factory, so can be a bit variable. Hold on to the board for now, and we’ll send you a new one, if you’ve done the warranty claim. Unfortunately we don’t have the capacity with everything going on to test it, so we’ll assume this is a one-off and not worry about it. If anyone else reports similar problems, and we remember, we might ask you to send it back at a later date for testing.
@bscott6 please post a good, high resolution picture of your board here. Most likely one of the voltage regulators has failed, and there is usually evidence of this. As @bearer says, warranty is 6 months. When and where did you buy it?
@CADavy to me it sounds like the motor is incorrectly wired, and then current was set so high as to short the driver. Motor phases should be connected such that one coil is connected to pins 1 and 2 of the stepper driver pins, and the other coil connects to pin 3 and 4. Motor currents are set in config.g with M906.
Don’t reconnect the motor until you have checked the motor, and set the motor currents low to start with. The maximum you should set the current is 80% of the motor’s rated current. You’ll need the motor specs to find this out. More details on motors here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors
@Carlo might just be the light, but the soldering on the back of the input 1 pins doesn’t look great. Can you post a better picture of that area?
With Duet 3, it depends what you want to do with it. If you run it in Standalone mode, it’s pretty similar to setting up a Duet 2 Ethernet, with no WiFi of course. Connecting with RPi, it becomes much more flexible and powerful, but it is a fast-developing environment! Perhaps do a basic setup, then add the Pi later, unless you are a RPi guru!
@kazolar my advice would be to return to the firmware version that causes you least problems, probably 2.04, if you want reliability, until you get the chance to update and test your version of 2.05.1.
If it ‘works perfectly’, but not after doing x, y or z, and that is repeatable, then it should be traceable. I appreciate you don’t have time to look into it now, though. I was just trying to suggest other things I know can cause similar issues.
@clegg78 I don't really have an answer for this. Most other threads where people have posted their IDEX configs are pretty much the same as yours, eg https://forum.duet3d.com/post/140426. I don't see anything that has changed between 2.04 and 2.05.1 that would affect this either.
According to this guide https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringMultipleIndependentXcarriagesCartesian#Section_Creating_a_tool_that_uses_more_than_one_carriage_to_print_multiple_copies_of_an_object you need to turn on mixing with
M568 P2 S1. But I think even this is old info, as there's a note in the V1.19 release notes https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/blob/dev/WHATS_NEW.md#version-119 that says:
M568 command to enable/disable mixing no longer does anything because mixing is always enabled. Mixing is not used if the E parameter in the G1 command has multiple values.
So really not sure! Does that help?!
@DocTrucker I think you need to know that something is flat, or as close to flat, as possible, before you can suggest the other side is not flat. I'd generally say 4mm+ plate glass on small beds (up to 200x200), or MIC6 aluminium tooling plate for larger beds are 'flat enough'.
You can infer from some bed mesh shapes what is going on, but an offset probe can make this more difficult. Classic example is a vertical Prusa-style X axis on 8mm rod, heavy direct drive extruder with motor mass out the front rather than over the rails, and a probe in front of that. Any twist of the X rods, coupled with the exaggeration of the Z probe in Y, makes the bed look like a banana! But just because the probe sees this, the nozzle doesn't necessarily, and causes issues with the nozzle being too close or far away when printing. Which is a good reason to like nozzle contact probes eg Piezo, kinematic beds/nozzle mounts, Smart Effector or similar. Bed material doesn't matter then, either.
@strips Unfortunately, I can't see anything obviously wrong in that M122 report because the reset has cleared any errors. Is it possible to connect a PC/laptop/RPi to the USB port and log the debug information? If you can, send
M111 P1 S1 to log network debug info, and
M111 P2 S1 to log webserver debug info to the USB port.
If you can run a long cable to it, it would remove one possible failure point.
@Alucardi I was under the impression that any move on any axis would reset the counter ... So as long as your printer is moving at least on motor in that time, I think you should be fine.
Yes, that's correct. It will only idle the motors when ALL motors have stopped moving for over 30 seconds, if M84 S30 is set.
@luc as @ChrisP says, don't worry too much about the actual step number (that's down to manufacturing tolerances, how soft your filament is, and/or possibly how tight you have the idler), just make sure it's extruding a consistent length. Then you have a baseline to set other extrusion factors, including flow. These can be dependent on the exact diameter of your filament, and speed of extrusion. Then flow rate is easier to adjust than the steps per mm of the drive.