thanks indeed the ground contact

I hae the same problem. no green led ad startup and no green led with tap.
It used to work and i didn't change anything (except of dissasembling my printhead a lot of times to solve a printing problem) when i measure between VCC and gnd i get 0,65V instead of 3,3V. Any idea what the reason for this could be?

Hi,

Would it be possible to clamp an extruder (flex3drive) directly on top of the smart effector?
It would be fixed by the standard holes in the pcb, but it would be touching the topside of the pcb on the whole surface to give it more rigidity. Would this be problem for the sensor. At this moment there is a kind of isolating ring between the bolt and the pcb for fixing the heatsink, i would use the same material between the extruder and the pcb.

Pieter

Found one of the problems: E3d delivered me three 1,75mm nozzles where i ordered 3mm nozzles. The fact that i didn't use any 1,75 mm nozzles before i didn't notice the difference, i thought it was normal to have a bigger melting room with a bigger diameter. Because i ordered now 1,75mm nozzles, i noticed they were the same as some of my previous nozzles.

But because the supposed 3mm nozzles didn't work, i started modifying my heatsinks, I changed a direct drive to a bowden by adding a threaded clip on top of the direct drive heatsink. This didn't work out (ridge on the inside) so now i have two damaged heatsinks, and no working extruder. Also i just discovered that xl Bulldog extruders are delivered with too wide tubing. They deliver 6/4 mm for the 3mm filament and 5/3 mm for the 1,75mm filament, which makes the filament, specially for the 1,75mm filament blocking on the entrance of the heatsink.

It has to be something like that. It goes effortlessly until approximately the start of the heatbreak. So probably there is some kind of minimal obstruction there. but enough to block the filament. I will disassemble the extruder head again for the 300th time and check for some obstructions in the flow channel or tube or connection of both.

thanks both for the advice.

i post the follow up

I changed the extruder, a Nema 17 (42BYGHW811) with a direct drive gear shaft for pushing the filament.
changed to a 1,75mm Volcano instead of a 3mm Volcano. Give it 1.0A in the config file.
The heater is a 40W and the filament is black PLA. I tried temps between 190 and 210. Lower then 190 it's not hot enough to melt the filament fast enough
Stuttering at every speed.

When i try to push the filament it looks like it blocks somewhere in the heating head. (connection between heatbreaker and nozzle?) I have to overcome a certain force and then it flows perfectly. When i stop pushing it blocks again.

Anybody has a suggestion for a better nozzle/heater-system on a delta?

It is indeed a nema 17.
I thought the rated current was low indeed, but i found this rates on their website, so i expect them to be right. Other people are using this rates without problem.

i tried the other extruder-driver already, didn't solve the problem

Its just a generic nema 17 stepper motor with no extra info available.

The only info you can find is the info on their site and it is very minimal:

ideal current 0.6A maximum current 1A
gear box ratio 5.18:1
colorcode for wires:

A+:Red
A-:Brown
B+:Yellow
B-:Blue

and that's it: i contacted them to ask the type of steppermotor used, we'll see what they answer

The stepper blocks, and then it starts stuttering. It starts moving, blocks, tries again, blocks again, etc
. And every time it shudders it activates the smarteffector.

example of stuttering stepper https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWVXZO_TMkw
(not mine just an example i found on the internet which is exactly what mine is doing)

The wiring is checked already 20 times if not more by now. Any idea how i can rule wiring mistakes out?
As far as i know the polarity doesn't matter because you can switch it in the config file.
It does work, in that way that it can feed and retract the filament in the bowden tube, until it reaches the extruder. But when there is a problem in the heating head and the filament blocks, the extruder should start grinding away the filament. it should be strong enough but instead from the moment it needs to exert some force it starts blocking and stuttering.

Hi,

Has anybody any idea how i can avoid a stuttering extruder?
first attempt with a direct extruder with flex3drive, stuttering…
now i have a bowdendrive with a bulldog xl (a 5:1 geared extruder) which would normaly eat my filament,... stuttering

I first tried a V5 from e3d-online, after that a V6, now i have a Volcano, tried all diameters, always the same easily pushed by hand stuttering with the extruder.
I tried all temperatures from 180 till 250. stuttering...
i tried all different settings for my extruder ranging from 0.5 till 1.1 A => stuttering

i tried three different steppermotors with the flex3drive => stuttering

tried PLA and ABS (both two different colors) => stuttering

Anybody has any idea what i forgot to try.

If i push the filament by hand it flows with ease.

I have here a very nice paperweight which has printing dimensions of 1meter by a diameter of 60cm. It has a changed smarteffector, it has a hanging extruder driver, really a very nice machine, if it just could print a little bit....

greetings,

Pieter