Can you add a bracket to the printer frame (bed respectively) were you park&lock the effector before filament change?
Thats an option i was also thinking about, but more complex to achieve compared to code.
Thanks already for your answer.
I would expect it behaves similarly to adding it directly in the code.
But I will first try to invoke it via the pause and the resume macro and sees if it makes a difference instead of invoking it directly in the g-code.
i just create the macro's and invoke them manually after the prints pauses?
This would work in a normal situation, it works on my Prusa. But on the Prusa it is very easy to change the filament without moving the printhead, which is almost impossible with my delta printer.
The problem is, that the printer will restore its position from the existing,moved, coordinates, but when the head is moved by replacing the filament, the printer has lost its absolute position and will go back to the wrong position, that's why I would like to home it first. In that way, I can reposition the head back in a known position and start from there.
My printer has rods of 72 cm, which makes that any force you put on the arms easily overpowers the holding force of the steppermotors, specially with my extruder. It works very well but is a pain to load new filament.
RepRapFirmware for Duet 1.26.1 (2020-02-09b1)
G91 ; relative positioning
;*** Slow homing has been configured. Change F180 to F1800 below when your configuration is working
G1 S1 X1305 Y1305 Z1305 F3600 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 S2 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F1800 ; go down a few mm
;*** Slow homing has been configured. Change F180 to F360 below when your configuration is working
G1 S1 X10 Y10 Z10 F180 ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
G1 Z-5 F2400 ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F3600 ; move X+Y to the centre
I want to do a colorchange with my duet 0.85 in the middle of a print. I can pause at the right place, but because i have a rather big delta printer with a fidly filament change it is almost impossible to change my filament without moving the printhead. My solution was to insert a G28 command after the break in the g-code; so it would center it again before resuming print. but after the g28 command it homes indeed but stops and tells me the print is finished. Somebody another idea how i can rehome my head again after filament change in midprint?
I hae the same problem. no green led ad startup and no green led with tap.
It used to work and i didn't change anything (except of dissasembling my printhead a lot of times to solve a printing problem) when i measure between VCC and gnd i get 0,65V instead of 3,3V. Any idea what the reason for this could be?
Would it be possible to clamp an extruder (flex3drive) directly on top of the smart effector?
It would be fixed by the standard holes in the pcb, but it would be touching the topside of the pcb on the whole surface to give it more rigidity. Would this be problem for the sensor. At this moment there is a kind of isolating ring between the bolt and the pcb for fixing the heatsink, i would use the same material between the extruder and the pcb.
Found one of the problems: E3d delivered me three 1,75mm nozzles where i ordered 3mm nozzles. The fact that i didn't use any 1,75 mm nozzles before i didn't notice the difference, i thought it was normal to have a bigger melting room with a bigger diameter. Because i ordered now 1,75mm nozzles, i noticed they were the same as some of my previous nozzles.
But because the supposed 3mm nozzles didn't work, i started modifying my heatsinks, I changed a direct drive to a bowden by adding a threaded clip on top of the direct drive heatsink. This didn't work out (ridge on the inside) so now i have two damaged heatsinks, and no working extruder. Also i just discovered that xl Bulldog extruders are delivered with too wide tubing. They deliver 6/4 mm for the 3mm filament and 5/3 mm for the 1,75mm filament, which makes the filament, specially for the 1,75mm filament blocking on the entrance of the heatsink.
It has to be something like that. It goes effortlessly until approximately the start of the heatbreak. So probably there is some kind of minimal obstruction there. but enough to block the filament. I will disassemble the extruder head again for the 300th time and check for some obstructions in the flow channel or tube or connection of both.
thanks both for the advice.
i post the follow up
I changed the extruder, a Nema 17 (42BYGHW811) with a direct drive gear shaft for pushing the filament.
changed to a 1,75mm Volcano instead of a 3mm Volcano. Give it 1.0A in the config file.
The heater is a 40W and the filament is black PLA. I tried temps between 190 and 210. Lower then 190 it's not hot enough to melt the filament fast enough
Stuttering at every speed.
When i try to push the filament it looks like it blocks somewhere in the heating head. (connection between heatbreaker and nozzle?) I have to overcome a certain force and then it flows perfectly. When i stop pushing it blocks again.
Anybody has a suggestion for a better nozzle/heater-system on a delta?
It is indeed a nema 17.
I thought the rated current was low indeed, but i found this rates on their website, so i expect them to be right. Other people are using this rates without problem.
i tried the other extruder-driver already, didn't solve the problem
Its just a generic nema 17 stepper motor with no extra info available.
The only info you can find is the info on their site and it is very minimal:
ideal current 0.6A maximum current 1A
gear box ratio 5.18:1
colorcode for wires:
and that's it: i contacted them to ask the type of steppermotor used, we'll see what they answer
The stepper blocks, and then it starts stuttering. It starts moving, blocks, tries again, blocks again, etc
. And every time it shudders it activates the smarteffector.
example of stuttering stepper https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWVXZO_TMkw
(not mine just an example i found on the internet which is exactly what mine is doing)
The wiring is checked already 20 times if not more by now. Any idea how i can rule wiring mistakes out?
As far as i know the polarity doesn't matter because you can switch it in the config file.
It does work, in that way that it can feed and retract the filament in the bowden tube, until it reaches the extruder. But when there is a problem in the heating head and the filament blocks, the extruder should start grinding away the filament. it should be strong enough but instead from the moment it needs to exert some force it starts blocking and stuttering.
Has anybody any idea how i can avoid a stuttering extruder?
first attempt with a direct extruder with flex3drive, stuttering…
now i have a bowdendrive with a bulldog xl (a 5:1 geared extruder) which would normaly eat my filament,... stuttering
I first tried a V5 from e3d-online, after that a V6, now i have a Volcano, tried all diameters, always the same easily pushed by hand stuttering with the extruder.
I tried all temperatures from 180 till 250. stuttering...
i tried all different settings for my extruder ranging from 0.5 till 1.1 A => stuttering
i tried three different steppermotors with the flex3drive => stuttering
tried PLA and ABS (both two different colors) => stuttering
Anybody has any idea what i forgot to try.
If i push the filament by hand it flows with ease.
I have here a very nice paperweight which has printing dimensions of 1meter by a diameter of 60cm. It has a changed smarteffector, it has a hanging extruder driver, really a very nice machine, if it just could print a little bit....
OK, i checked it again, and i suppose the hatched zones you can see around the heatsink are the sensor element?
OK this messages crossed eachother
Any plans to create a dual extruder smarteffector?
Lasercutting? I expect there are places in the pcb which are not used for the copper lanes?
Thanks a lot, works like a charm
i just adapted the smarteffector for use with a bigger mounting plate. Works great!
i also adpted a 3mm E3d direct drive heatsink for use with the smarteffector as a 3mm bowdendrive with a screwtop. Also working great!
Next experiment is a dualdrive setup with the smarteffector. So I will have to drill two 12mm holes in the pcb.
Which parts are drillable? Would it be possible to mark this places on the drawing in the Wiki? (I am aware this will void my guarantee)
btw: How can i upload a picture on this forum?
Thnx, I will try first the firmware upgrade
Duet 0.85 firmware 1.20 beta
I just installed the delta-effector to my printer. But every time i want to check the probe with the G30 command i get the following Error:
G30 Error: Z probe already triggered at start of probing move.
When i add The I1 parameter to the M558 command in the config-file, i don't get the error and the G30 command starts, but the head crashes on the bed although the probe triggers on impact.
Anybody any idea?
finally got everything ok.
It was a combination of a faulty heater and forgetting to autotune again.
Changed the 3-wire pt100 to the 2-wire pt100 from e3d. Solved almost all the interference
changed the heater from the extruder. It was faulty and didn;t heat enough.
Changed to a new one and added a silicone cover.
And finally after doing the auto-tuning it finally worked.
Hopefully tomorrow back in business again.
Next project: adding the delta effector
I got most spikes solved by hanging the leads from the pt100 straight down. This is not feasable for working but makes clear it is probably an interference problem. I have rather long leads (2m) i will try to shorten them as much as possible and look for shielded cable for al the stepper, servo and heater cables.
BUT his still doesn't solve my problem of the extruder heater disabling itself.
Every time when i start the heater, it starts heating untill a temperature around 40 degrees (it varies) and then will stop heating. This happens also when i don't get temp spikes. Could this because of the beta?
Do i have to change also some configfiles on the SD-card when i install the beta? i come from version 1.17.
I reconnected the leads from the pt100 to be sure they were correctly connected
l redirected the pt100 lead so it would nowhere go alongside one of the other leads (extruder-stepper / leveling servo)
i started with M18
Every time i got at 30 degrees i got my first spike, then it intervals (like a square block signal, with longer times at 2000 then at the normal temp) around 42 degrees the heater stops heating and i can't reactivate it without power cycling the printer.