Here's the three versions I when changing my bed.g for my delta printer. They use 32 points and it generates a column that I can cut and paste into my bed.g It works for me, my calibration runs in the 0.01 mm range. Feel free to make a copy and do whatever you want with it, I'm just sharing in hopes of it being helpful to someone. Please watch the printer carefully until you're confident it's working for you, while it works for me I'm just throwing it out there to help and don't make any claims to it working flawlessly although I can't see how it'd go bad if you use values reasonable to your machine.

Variables to change are:
-bed size (the outer ring of probe points)
-Calibration Factor
-Oversize factor (only on the oversized one where I use it to dial in my arm lengths)

The first one is my default arrangement
12 points at the bed size distance (perimeter), 12 more at 2/3 the bed size distance, 7-points at 1/3 and one for the center.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1trfFyw2LqvRUeq3WPKtEaKaRGZOVwk4034zErVPo3jE/edit?usp=sharing

The second arrangement I get better calibration numbers from
16 points at the perimeter, 12 inside (2/3 distance), and 3 points (1/3 distance) and a center point
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17S-CsZrUSqeNFooCKBznFLhmKTVUeivGca3umMWm86s/edit?usp=sharing

The third is what I use to test / calibrate my arm length. I calculate the oversize factor as the distance to just inside the maximum bed radius over the bed size parameter that I can test within the limits of the towers. Please be careful and watch closely if you use this one.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/172jtcU9UQyQi1yUPvm9tagQ7Fl1T8Yxcv_s8HN2PATI/edit?usp=sharing

I will try to update if there is a major flaw, otherwise please treat it as a starting point for you play with generating your own test points.

@Danal I use the same Motors on my Rostock max for years now and they've held up quite well for the abuse I did on them. I have looked for lower inductance / inertia 0.9 steppers with good torque but I haven't found one I'm confident will perform better for a decent price (I'm looking at you moons' industries...)

If you get a chance, test out my settings I scope tuned for the motors. Mine run 1500ma without getting hot and are as silent as I can expect of them.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13028/my-tuned-tmc2660-settings/2

Following the trinamic tmc2660 manual and spreadcycle guide I busted out my o-scope with a current probe and a helping hands on the sense resistor. The motors I tuned were Wantai 42BYGHM809 and a PG35L-048. I run a delta, and my steppers are running at 1.5 out of the specced 1.7A and they are staying significantly cooler than when I tuned by ear and they are behaving much better for me, it even got my past the .02 bed leveling barrier I was at.

Anyways, thought I'd share my efforts in case it might help someone.

Wantai 42BYGHM809
M569 P0 D2 F2 B2 Y01:09:02

PG35L-048
M569 P3 D2 F3 B3 Y03:07:02

I finally cleared this up on my E3d titan, had moire patterns like the second picture first post. I eliminated the software/ electronics ( changed stepper driver settings, each value individually although it was on the fly during 10mm test towers, and even purposely bad ones), motor current, microstepping high and low, thegolden ratio layer heights, extrusion/flow rate,slicers, motor cables. It confirmed what I suspected in my case which was that it was hardware and top of the list was the titan itself.

I don’t know what fixed it specifically since at that point I wasn’t doing that many disassemblies. I reprinted the motor mount and sanded to try to keep things perpendicular. I drilled out the the old titan cover plate and added a copper sleeve to the motor shaft intending to constrain shift alignment and any deflection from the tensioner. I had lots of spare parts since I swapped everything on the titan but the main body. When arranging the gears, I adjusted the delrin gear on the hobb so the tensioner arm was as close to perfect feeding filament into the center of the hobb. When I was doing that I noticed the both delrin gears had slight issues, one didn't sit perpendicular on the hobb when looked at with an engineer square ( I used it a on anything I could to see who my culprits could be for not being perpendicular when they should) and the other was not truly flat when viewed against the straight edge. Fixed one up and put it in and noticed when I was trying to get the gears flush to a razors edge (literally) that the hobb gear wobbles weird in it's bearing. So I swapped out the hobb's bearing in the body of the titan, (the one in the cover was checked too). I also added so kapton tape where the v6 mounts into so there is zero play even with effort. I finished putting it back together and one or a combination of things fixed it. Going to a hemera was my next move if I didn't get rid of it here, if only for the on motor mount points for my probe and and flex filament performance.

My gut says based on the pattern, it was likely the fact that the gears were not perfectly in line (seriously, I couldn't tell other than the bearing until I got out my good square) and wobbling during rotation either due to the motor shaft not being perpendicular for the metal gear, the delrin gear not being truly flat / crooked on the hobb, or less than stable bearing the hobb gear rode in. With the hemera you have a few parts you out together that could be the source, and it makes it even harder to identify since a few critical ones are small and short so perpendicularity of shaft to gear and round and centered of the rotating parts will Tedious. Still you could get by simply with A printed jig and dial indicator along with some squinting at the part on a engineer / machinist square or at least straight edge in front of a light. .

I just use a straight hall effect sensors (not a board so there isn't any pot adjustments so they're were only like $1 wa for the sensors) and a magnet glued to the carriages on my delta, repeatability is spot on and it's contactless. although I don't have a heated enclosure. When I tested repeatability on micro switches many years ago though, the highest repeatability came from some micro switches I pulled out of some arcade buttons (I think they were sanwa shrug) which also happen to be inexpensive.

I finally cleared this up on my E3d titan, had moire patterns like the second picture first post. I eliminated the software/ electronics ( changed stepper driver settings, each value individually although it was on the fly during 10mm test towers, and even purposely bad ones), motor current, microstepping high and low, thegolden ratio layer heights, extrusion/flow rate,slicers, motor cables. It confirmed what I suspected in my case which was that it was hardware and top of the list was the titan itself.

I don’t know what fixed it specifically since at that point I wasn’t doing that many disassemblies. I reprinted the motor mount and sanded to try to keep things perpendicular. I drilled out the the old titan cover plate and added a copper sleeve to the motor shaft intending to constrain shift alignment and any deflection from the tensioner. I had lots of spare parts since I swapped everything on the titan but the main body. When arranging the gears, I adjusted the delrin gear on the hobb so the tensioner arm was as close to perfect feeding filament into the center of the hobb. When I was doing that I noticed the both delrin gears had slight issues, one didn't sit perpendicular on the hobb when looked at with an engineer square ( I used it a on anything I could to see who my culprits could be for not being perpendicular when they should) and the other was not truly flat when viewed against the straight edge. Fixed one up and put it in and noticed when I was trying to get the gears flush to a razors edge (literally) that the hobb gear wobbles weird in it's bearing. So I swapped out the hobb's bearing in the body of the titan, (the one in the cover was checked too). I also added so kapton tape where the v6 mounts into so there is zero play even with effort. I finished putting it back together and one or a combination of things fixed it. Going to a hemera was my next move if I didn't get rid of it here, if only for the on motor mount points for my probe and and flex filament performance.

My gut says based on the pattern, it was likely the fact that the gears were not perfectly in line (seriously, I couldn't tell other than the bearing until I got out my good square) and wobbling during rotation either due to the motor shaft not being perpendicular for the metal gear, the delrin gear not being truly flat / crooked on the hobb, or less than stable bearing the hobb gear rode in. With the hemera you have a few parts you out together that could be the source, and it makes it even harder to identify since a few critical ones are small and short so perpendicularity of shaft to gear and round and centered of the rotating parts will Tedious. Still you could get by simply with A printed jig and dial indicator along with some squinting at the part on a engineer / machinist square or at least straight edge in front of a light. .

I just figured it out by setting up a macro to do 10 sets of G0 Z5 and G30 S-1, then I'd change my feed rate with M558 and hit the macro again simply watching the the differences trigger heights. It's also what made me realize my inductive probe's response time of 500hz made up a large portion of the variance for the trigger height.

I hope you figure it out, I have a delta which is prone to this anyways, but I was clear of it initially when I moved from a PG35L stepper in an UMBEE setup, and it appeared when I started using a direct drive E3D titan (tried two difference 0.9 deg steppers). I've minimized how significant it appears, but it drives me crazy showing up most notably in shiny filaments (as in silk types). I replaced the gears/hobb/idler/stepper (and calibrated the driver)/ face plate, and even redid the feeds so I can print ninjaflex easily. As far as I can tell this appearance of this artifact is due to any less than perfect eccentricities/offsets in the gear system. I also tried tl-smoothers for shits and giggles to no avail.

So if anything isn't perfectly in plane/ perpendicular, you'll have this to a degree equal to the amount whatever components are out of perfect alignment.

I truly hope you figure it out with a simple solution so you can post the solution and I can replicate it. I wish you the best of luck.

Here's the three versions I when changing my bed.g for my delta printer. They use 32 points and it generates a column that I can cut and paste into my bed.g It works for me, my calibration runs in the 0.01 mm range. Feel free to make a copy and do whatever you want with it, I'm just sharing in hopes of it being helpful to someone. Please watch the printer carefully until you're confident it's working for you, while it works for me I'm just throwing it out there to help and don't make any claims to it working flawlessly although I can't see how it'd go bad if you use values reasonable to your machine.

Variables to change are:
-bed size (the outer ring of probe points)
-Calibration Factor
-Oversize factor (only on the oversized one where I use it to dial in my arm lengths)

The first one is my default arrangement
12 points at the bed size distance (perimeter), 12 more at 2/3 the bed size distance, 7-points at 1/3 and one for the center.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1trfFyw2LqvRUeq3WPKtEaKaRGZOVwk4034zErVPo3jE/edit?usp=sharing

The second arrangement I get better calibration numbers from
16 points at the perimeter, 12 inside (2/3 distance), and 3 points (1/3 distance) and a center point
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17S-CsZrUSqeNFooCKBznFLhmKTVUeivGca3umMWm86s/edit?usp=sharing

The third is what I use to test / calibrate my arm length. I calculate the oversize factor as the distance to just inside the maximum bed radius over the bed size parameter that I can test within the limits of the towers. Please be careful and watch closely if you use this one.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/172jtcU9UQyQi1yUPvm9tagQ7Fl1T8Yxcv_s8HN2PATI/edit?usp=sharing

I will try to update if there is a major flaw, otherwise please treat it as a starting point for you play with generating your own test points.

I recall similar issues with the zesty nimble being solved by changing the lubricant, I only looked into it since I recall some reports of flexible shaft having bad short lifespan on delta machines.

@oarjjj If I'm going to spend that on a motor i would rather get a set of smart steppers

@Danal I use the same Motors on my Rostock max for years now and they've held up quite well for the abuse I did on them. I have looked for lower inductance / inertia 0.9 steppers with good torque but I haven't found one I'm confident will perform better for a decent price (I'm looking at you moons' industries...)

If you get a chance, test out my settings I scope tuned for the motors. Mine run 1500ma without getting hot and are as silent as I can expect of them.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13028/my-tuned-tmc2660-settings/2

I'll start off with the caviet I am a number chaser, so this may be over the top for many...

I have several of the standard NPN normally closed ljXXa3-4-z/bx sensors from 12 to 18mm. I got them to fairly well being VERY selective with low voltage drop diodes. I was just never satisfied with their performance particularly the response on aluminum plates, the 500 Hz response time, and their spec sheet repeatability (or drift). The response time has irked me for a long time, because of this. Let's say your probe speed is 5 mm/s, that means your result can vary by .01 mm just by virtue of how fast it responds. After doing some thinking over time and just poking around with what's available, I decided I could affordably pick two of my concerns and address them. I picked up an IE5390 sensor off of E-bay for $20 (it's normally a $100+ industrial sensor). Specs for it are PNP normally open 8mm K=1( ie all metal) inductive sensor with 1kHz switching freq and 1.5mm (max) sense distance.

After getting it installed and adjusted (I mount mine on a lockable ball hinge so I can adjust to get uniform triggering in the X and Y against a small metal cylinder, every little bit matter when dealing with Delta printers), I have +/-.0015 mm repeatability when probing now*.

I'm VERY satisfied with the results and my G32 bed leveling is down to .014 (It would be better but I have mag-arm issues that I need to address next according to the ripple in G29). I believe that the response frequency was one of the primary contributors to the increased performance. You can find inductive sensors with up to 5 kHz switching frequency, but I couldn't find any good deals on an all metal one.

So I'd though I'd share my experience since I haven't seen people go into the higher quality inductive sensors out there. I hope some of you find this interesting and possibly helpful.

*Custom Rostock Max Metal, 0.9 deg steppers, Duet Wifi, 20 tooth pulleys, 0.0015625‬ theoretical microstep resolution.

Woops, 24V. That reminds me I forgot to mention that I decided on the decriment for the Wantai 0.9 steppers not because it did much to the slow / medium speed current waveform, but helped maintain currents better on the steppers at high speed when the back EMF is rampaging since there isn't much left for compensating by throwing higher voltages at the steppers