Posts made by mikebridge

@exerqtor I'm wondering how well that filament path is going to handle flexible filaments. I can see getting a wad stuck between the 2 bearings opposing the toothed gear.

I'm really interested in how they are handling the segmented bed, I think that could be a really great option going forward, depending what size of 'tiles' are available, why waste power heating sections of the bed you aren't printing on?

i see the release notes for RC07, but no RC07 files

@dc42 turns out the glass cracked under the PEI sheet and that was causing the inconsistent readings. replaced w/ a geckotek spring steel build plate (see my other thread on the high temp magnetic sheet if people want more info) and my readings are very consistent now.

verdict: works very well up to 110C (using it w/ geckotek removable 'hot' build plates). have not tested higher temps.

Have you considered a zesty nimble for remote direct drive extruder to lower your carriage mass? You could add a duex board and then drive all 3 z screws independently for auto leveling.

Am I overlooking anything thinking I can use something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/7301t25 (max temp 250F/120C) applied on my aluminum bed to allow me to use the various spring steel flexible build surfaces? Possible concerns w/ thickness variation, and the max temp is around the upper range for bed temps for Nylon & Polycarbonite

I print primarily ABS @ 110C for first 10 layers, then 100C for subsequent layers.

@calvinx oh, we have cats too (thus why all our 3d printers have enclosures), and I told my wife I have a rule of "we can't have more pets than persons living in the house", but she's pregnant now, so we're up to 3 cats and she keeps mentioning wanting a dog too...

@dc42 it was triggering fine against the PEI indoors (the back of the PEI is painted w/ high-temp black paint), and there's no noticeable condensation on the surface, similar error when the bed is cold or hot. perhaps something shifted when it was moved to the garage, I'll check that today.

@moriquendi phenomenal. How do they deal with low temperatures? Moved my coreXY into the garage to start getting the baby's future room ready and dc42's IR probe doesn't seem to like the near freezing temperatures with the PEI surface.

how would the second from the right actually trigger when pressure was put on the plate? the sensor would 'unflex'?

also, in my config.g (I have a duex5 expansion board)
M584 X0 Y1 Z5:6 E3:4 ; Set Drive mappings
M671 X457:-58 Y206:206 S4 ; Define Z-Leadscrew positions

and in my bed.g

G28

G30 P0 X20 Y20 Z-99999
G30 P1 X20 Y345 Z-99999
G30 P2 X370 Y345 Z-99999
G30 P3 X370 Y20 Z-99999
G30 P4 X190 Y206 Z-99999 S2

on my tronxy x5s with the same issue (appearing to 'arc up' in the middle of the bed when the bed should be showing a slight sag), it was overtightened screws for the smooth rods on either side of the Z motors, that was enough to pull the y axis 2020 into a sag in the middle.

edit: i should have read the entire thread before responding, seems you already addressed this and have moved on to another issue.

here's my homez script for my coreXY w/ 2 Z drivers:

; homez.g
; called to home the Z axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sat Jan 06 2018 19:43:35 GMT-0600 (Central Standard Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F30000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X190 Y206 F30000 ; go to first probe point
G30 ; home Z by probing the bed
; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F500 ; lift Z relative to current position
G90 ; absolute positioning

could we get a timescale added under the temperature chart in DWC?

@chrishamm Yes, I meant having the firmware update the .json if changes are made to the .g system files manually, but I guess that would be more of a DWC change

is there a way to export a config.json from my current setup to import into the tool?

You could also get a duex2 or duex5 board and set the fan headers there to 5v or 12v with the same 24v power supply.

it does appear to be the case that its ~80mA per RGBW section (20mA*4), with 20 sections per meter for this product.
Would the amps drawn be linear w/ the PWM range i.e. full 20mA per section at S255, but 2mA at S25.5?

@ayudtee said in Trying to calculate current draw for RGBW LED strip:

@mikebridge Interesting. I should have looked at their video before responding. I am curious how you will connect this to get all four colors? I assumed that all LEDs would have to be lit to get white, but maybe only the white LED comes on for white?

there's 4 led's in each 'package' (and 3 of those per 5cm section, so a total of 20 sections per meter), R G B and a dedicated W led (in this case, a 'soft white').

If I'm using Ohm's law correctly, each segment with all LEDs (12) lit would be using 280mA which seems REALLY high
12v/300=.04, 12v/150=.08, for .04+3*(.08)= .28

these are RGBW, not RGB, so I'm using that page as a benchmark, but just wanted to confirm the values if possible as there's no spec sheet for this specific item form them.