Topics created by MiR

They do it in Fusion 360, but only for turning the laser off 8-( :
But this is easy to fix with a custom Postprocessor.

G0 S255 M4

G0 S50 M4

G1 S0

also in Fusion change is quite low as you can only define one power setting per action.

Other tools like laserweb use the S parameter in a much more aggressive way for laser raster (grbl):

G1 X0.10 Y0.10 S0.0000
X0.20 S57.4706
X0.40 S57.8562
X0.60 S58.2353

for smoothieware it uses a value between 0 und 1.0 for S :

G1 X0.10 Y0.10 S0.0000
X0.20 S0.5765
X0.40 S0.5739

If the IN pin allows you to control the laser power right down to zero, then I suggest you feed the Duet PWM output pin (the one you specified in the M452 command) into that pin. You could use a separate GPIO pin to do on/off switching at the start and end of a job too if you like.

Alternatively, if the cutting speed is slow you could wires it as you have done for Smoothie but reduce the PWM frequency.

Please note, RepRapFirmware does not yet adjust the PWM during acceleration and deceleration the way Smoothieware does. I plan to implement that before the 2.02 release. However, I'd like to get some feedback on the current implementation first, so that I know it is basically doing the right thing before I make any changes.

I was thinking about that Ian in my post above about the copper grease but presumed that PTFE tape would not be very suitable for this area. I suppose like PTFE lined heatbreaks its fine if you keep below 260 deg C?

The idea of insulating the connection between heater block and heatsink is very appealing.

DJDemonD, I took some inspiration from your effector and redesigned mine, it is too bad that I loose some z-height now because the hotend is now a lot closer to the build plate, but on the other side part cooling fan designs are now a lot more straightforward.

Is your holder for the cooling fans available somewhere?

Michael

@MiR:

I am also thinking of attaching two led's to the front and back of my effector and trying to visualize the movements with a long exposure with my camera.

I have no clue if this would work or not, but it'd make a great time lapse video.

edit

Actually, it looks like attaching the right light source to the extruder and running your printer faster under the right time lapse exposure setting would produce something like in the link below: http://www.wasproject.it/w/en/light-extruder-by-gianluca-pugliese/

So I checked my steps per mm in a different way, with a pencil and calipers.

I placed a ruler on the edge of one of my carriage rollers at all three towers and marked it's position with a pencil along the frame of the printer in the homed position.

Then I took all the carriages down 300mm and marked the position again on the same roller against the frame.

I took a 300mm (12") caliper and lined it up against the marks and I'd say it was accurate with ~0.5mm or less.

It does appear that all of my stepper motors should be almost exactly 80 steps per mm as calculated (if they are off then it's only 0.17mm or less per 100mm - which is acceptable).

The failing ssr is exacly the thing I am after here.

When the ssr fails it will most likely have absolutely nothing to do with the cpu so I guess this will add a safety net that of course is not perfect, but will decrease the possibility of a fatal issue by quite a bit, so I guess the feature is not a complete waste of effort.

Besides this it could also be possible to automagically power down the printer after a print (I guess the ATX function is for that, but the power supplies sold for 12/24 V usually do not have an input for switching them on/off by software).

That's also something that would be nice to have.

Hi can you explain a bit more what problem you are trying to solve. as best as I can make out, you have a glass bed, and inductive sensor?

How thick is your glass bed? If its 3mm or less, then make sure you power your inductive sensor on 12v or 24v and place aluminium foil under the glass, then there is no need for metallic discs, you can probe anywhere, albeit with an x and y offset.

If you have a microswitch (see Russ Gries post about sensor accuracy) it turns out they are very accurate. Make a mount to place one directly under the nozzle and just affix it for probing, measure the offset afterwards and you're there.

Probing only 4 points is only going to resolve your delta autocalibration to 3 factors which is not great, for 8 factor autocalibration you need to probe at least 9 points. You mentioned piezo in your post, I won't spam it too much, just enough to say you can try to achieve a reliable, accurate probing system with inductive sensors all day long, and you won't get close to piezo contact sensors for accuracy, reliability and convenience.