Posts made by NoSkillzEngineer

Was it an RJ11 port??? Whoops! Clearly I didn't look at it particularly closely

My bad!!!

@bearer said in Duet 3 Mainboard 6HC - initial production run.:

@Dougal1957 said in Duet 3 Mainboard 6HC - initial production run.:

Mine certainly had an image on else I would have been lost as I know very little about the way Linux interacts (I know a lot more now since I got this thing on Saturday)

Doug

Did the Duet 3 just get classified as a "gateway drug"?

It should have if it didn't

Received my Duet3 today......looking at this up close for the first time, as couple thoughts come to mind.

(1) it's bigger than I expected. I actually prefer that it is a bit bigger because it gives the impression of more of a "motherboard" or "mainboard" which is what I wanted out of the Duet2 initially.

(2) there are two different type of headers on this, the motor headers are significantly "beefier"
(Kinda wish they were the same like tan-ish color though.....first world problems )

(3) lotta components on this board....getting me excited and I haven't even plugged it in yet!!!

(4) there's two RJ45 ports on it?? Hmmm, okay, cool.

(5) kinda wish someone would hit these with a fine file, knife, or like red or blue scotchbright before they got sent out, I have it here, I just wish I didn't have to, again, first world problems.

Excited to use it!!!

Thank you!

@eumldeuml I work at a Robotics Integrator in Sarasota, FL that has a fully equipped machine shop, I'm actually designing and building a CoreXY, Kossel/Delta, and a...Slightly different machine as well. Literally every component apart from (1) controller (2) power supply and (3) motors (and filament and tubing) will be machined in-house, with linear rails and ball screws or belts from suppliers through work. Gates for belt and either Hiwin, THK, SKF linear rails and ball screw depends on the cost, as those will be expensive.

I'm spending WAY too much on this. I have dumped....idk I've lost count at this point, $5,000 maybe? I'm over $3,700 for sure in 3D printing and I'm kinda just hitting the "F*ck it!" Button with this build. I'm trying to shoot for <$3,500 for everything...but not necessarily keeping track as of what I'm spending so far. Everything will either be machined to within a few tenths or precision ground.

I will post pictures when I start actually manufacturing it, design isn't finished yet.

@grizewald Hmmm, I didn't know that about the comments and content. I also was not considering the retrieval of information or the storing of it, I was thinking purely communication specific. I use Swype for my phone and there is no way I can type faster on a keyboard, no way. A phone, specifically an android one, also utilizes Google's Talk-To-Text which you can more or less speak normally and it'll beat most far typers with minimal errors in most dialects, with exceptions of course. Just a quick thought, I don't care to go into chrome and logon each time and go to the website specifically to go into the forum. Their own app (built with flutter) could also be an alternative. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Too bad the duet forum can't be merged with like a Discord server, that would be pretty cool and pretty convenient with how you can like tag or pin people or everyone in that particular thread, I'd be way more active on a Discord server, just saying, phone mobile notifications for the discord app are kinda nice, I have it notify my only when someone specifically tags me.

@dc42

Not sure if you're interested in this at all, but I have have access to a few industrial machines, I found a way to get the list of the supported G-Codes and M-Codes in Fanuc's controllers. I have access to a 2014 Doosan Puma GT2100 CNC lathe and idk what year Doosan DNM 5700 mill and a very large and rather new Haas GR712 and two ProtoTrak controllers.

Perhaps I'm unfamiliar with the specific intent of the Duet 3.0, but I vaguely remember a conversation with you about standardizing the G-Codes at least, as M-Codes tend to be manufacturer and/or machine application specific. I'll get lists/pictures of all the G-Codes and M-Codes if you want and if there's any other information you want/need from the Fanuc controllers (kinda wanna reverse engineer their controller myself cuz they are the standard for industrial CNC controllers). It's for several networking and interface ports, can't imagine it would be that hard to get code from the controllers:)

Anything you wanna know about some of the industrial controllers we have in our shop??

Oh, and this is something cool I discovered is Macro B Programming on Fanuc controllers. Click here for a PDF on my Google drive about Macro B Programming inside Fanuc controllers

It allows parametric hand programming for canned cycles like G71 on a CNC lathe which is a roughing operation.

link to pictures of my program I created in a couple minutes

@t3p3tony said in News on Duet 3 release?:

Tim beat me to it!

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/11540/duet-3-mainboard-6hc-initial-production-run

Hmmm that's a lot of information to digest....ima have some questions in that thread soon.

@elmoret said in News on Duet 3 release?:

@noskillzengineer said in News on Duet 3 release?:

I want one of the early prototypes/early releases.

Do you have an estimate as when we might see them? I am extremely interested.

https://www.duet3d.com/Duet3Mainboard6HC

Thank you so much! I was unaware preorders started! I need this in my life

@bearer said in News on Duet 3 release?:

There really isn't any information on that wall of text to suggest which of the Duet boards would be the best fit for your needs. Maybe if you describe what size and number of motors you need, and other IO it'll be easier for the Duet guys to help you evaluate which board to use.

To me its not entirely clear if you want to make 3d printer kits, cnc machine kits or convert your existing cnc machines to be controlled by a Duet.

The number of motors will vary as I want to do all 3 as well as design and create new machine tools. The motors, or rather axis count, will vary from 3 to probably about 20, as of right now. There is a wall of text because I am not like any other company in this space, I want to elevate hobbyist and small business machines on an unimaginable scale. I see great potential in this project and I think it's time the industrial realm caught up with the 21st century.

Most that know me already know where my priorities lie, the Duet2 is a powerful mainboard, if I can do what I suspect I can with the Duet3, the next iteration of the Duet3 (or a customized variant of it) will come very shortly after, even if I have to employ my own Hardware and Firmware engineers to do it (nothing personal to the team here, it would likely just be a more premium option that could more competitively compete in the industrial space, if I run into any limitations, so the overall cost to entry for the Duet3 remains competitive, then if price is no concern there's also an option for that crowd).

I don't necessarily need someone to tell me what is most appropriate for my applications, I am familiar with the Duet and RRF (relatively speaking). I just want to start playing with the Duet3 already

@dc42 said in News on Duet 3 release?:

We're planning a pre-production run in August. The price will be higher than the Duet2 and you will also need a Raspberry Pi 3B+ or similar to manage the communications, storage and user interface. But you will get 6 stepper drivers capable of handling somewhere between 4A and 5A peak current, 10 heater/fan drivers, 9 GPIO channels for endstops, filament monitors, Z probes etc., plus CAN bus expansion if you need more of anything.

You also talk about OEM support. I'm filing the paperwork for my own company this week or next, much of my plan was to either build a high-quality kit and sell just the kit and have a config for a duet or sell with one in it. Each and every component will be CNC machined, precision ground, or precision lapped so that the hardware will never be a problem for this community again, as I really have only been hardware limited as far as precision goes. Typically, CNC machined brackets, components, or kits are unnecessarily expensive and from my perspective...I can't really understand why. More people need access to this technology and the less people are fiddling with calibration and hardware, the more innovation and entrepreneurship will thrive. That's why I'll do it for nearly what it will cost me to make it.

I run industrial CNC equipment and play with ABB and Kawasaki robots at work and the duet is about the closest I've seen to the industrial Fanuc controllers that control....well, most CNC machines. I would bet it wouldn't take all that much to replace one of the controllers for one of these machines (as I look at the CNC mills and CNC lathes) with a Duet and have it work...pretty darn seamlessly, with the exception of the whole AC motor DC stepper thing. There's probably a bit more inputs and outputs on these machines, maybe some beefier components, the principle really isn't all that different though...the hardware is.

The big difference that I see is AC motors, the SIGNIFICANTLY higher power requirements (this Doosan CNC Lathe says up to 76 Amps @ 220v on the back of the machine), many more pump connections (oil pump, low pressure and high pressure coolant pump, something for pneumatics actuation for turret movement for tool changes, oil scavenging in the coolant, etc), the HMI (the Human to Machine Interface, or the physical controller interface), the massive footprint, castings, and motors....and some convenient safety features like an enclosure.

I want a duet to run the majority of my machines, I'll buy a few new machines likely with Fanuc controllers (because I know it so well) and make all the machines I'll design with those to a few tenths or less. I'd prefer to have a duet run the machines I design and sell.

This industry would not be where it is today, nor would we be on this forum today, if it wasn't for Stratasys's patents expiring and the Open-Source philosophy as well as its community. Despite many business owners advising me to maintain proprietary intellectual property, all of what my business creates will be open-source, perhaps with a slight exception or two if necessary to stay in business.

I want one of the early prototypes/early releases.

Do you have an estimate as when we might see them? I am extremely interested.

Will you guys take my money and give me a Duet 3 yet?

@baesjerker said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

Thanks for the tips. I store my filament in a closed box, but I do not have evadry. Could Silica Gel work as a substitute? I have a high quality calliper. Travel speeds are based on the Cura profile @Phaedrux posted yesterday. I think it was 120 or something.

Thanks for that one @Phaedrux. It actually removed a lot of the stringing issue. Now it’s so much better.

I have tried temps from 180 and up to 220. Results is almost the same.

I will try some more settings in Cura. Trial and error.

I have filaments from PrimaValue (green), Addnorth (transparent), Polymaker (red) and NinjaTek (white). I also have a no brand local black one.

No I don’t have extruded pressure advance in my Config. I will check it out.

Pick a filament and stick with it for now so there is less variation. You are looking for consistency, stick with Polymaker for tuning, in my personal opinion and experience.

Evadry is silica dry beads, but in a thing that you can remove, plug into an outlet (it is supposed to get hot), it cooks out the moisture, and then you throw it back in the dry box. Worth every penny, I have six or seven of them around the house, three in older cars, one in the gun safe, one in a chest with documents and photos in it, and two or three in filament dry boxes. They really are so unbelievably convenient and quite very good.

With PLA, I'd recommend no more than 210. I'm typically at 190-205 range, but the cooling of the filament must be improved on the ender cuz it's crap.

120 for travel speeds are nowhere near high enough, again in my personal opinion and experience. I don't typically have overtravel issues (although I'm going to verify this with an indicator within the next two weeks). You can easily double that number without a single issue, in fact, I'd highly recommend it.

I activate the visibility of quite a LOT of settings within Cura, I control as much as I possibly can. For example, extrusion width, wall thickness, number of perimeters, connect infill lines, initial line width, infill/perimeter overlap, et cetera, et cetera.

I get high dimensional precision with a low-end printer because I take a tremendous amount of time tweaking and tuning each and every variable I can, even taking into account the compression and elongation of the thermoplastic from the extruder to the time it comes out of the nozzle. I set the XY & Z steps per mm way before plastic is ever even introduced or a heater is turned on. That way, I know the machine is accurate and I can focus on extrusion.

As of right now, my extruder steps per mm for my Ender is 94. Then the microstepping value is handled by another code entirely.

I tend not to change my steps per mm until I am absolutely certain it is not extrusion based as I try to come to my steps per mm as carefully and precisely as I can. 90% of the issues you'll encounter will usually be a result of improper slicer settings. That is why I tighten my stuff that little bit more, use solid mounts, assemble on granite, measure everything, and ultimately, why I get the results I get.

I haven't touched my printer in a while but when I finish, I'll upload my my config and slicer settings both here and on github, along with my start and end G-Code:)

@baesjerker Make sure filament is Dry, filament is extremely hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air EASILY. Best to make a dry box for it, I use I think tupperware containers, large ones (10 or 20 gallon) They are air tight, then I throw an Evadry (Amazon or Costco I think also sells them) reusable humidity absorber in there will my filament. If there is any moisture in your filament, due to the temperature of the nozzle during extrusion, the water instantly boils and creates bubbles, blobs, air gaps and all sorts of seemingly impossible and inconsistent problems that are a friggin nightmare to try to diagnose/troubleshoot. As a direct result of that, some of the things you could be changing could be bringing you further away from dimensional precision and worsen your print quality. A word of advise: Keep a ledger, document EVERY change, no matter how small. If you do this, reverting to old settings is effortless and there is no possible room for error. I make this easier by simply commenting out code and adding lines, instead of changing values. Just....don't forget to add comments so YOU know which settings are for what.

Assuming your filament has been properly dried (24 hours at the very least) then recalibrate your extruder. Don't even attempt this without a quality caliper, at the very least.

What are your Travel Speeds, your non-printing speeds, set to?

What is your print temperature?

DC42 is right, retraction settings are important because pla is known to ooze and you must relieve the back pressure on the nozzle and get it away from the heat of the nozzle enough for it not to come out while moving to the next print coordinate.

Temperature is equally important, however, if the temperature is too high, the filament is more of a liquid and retraction won't do a damn thing. Travel speed (non-printing moves) should also be as high as you can without creating skipping or overtravel because the the faster the nozzle gets to the target coordinate, the less time the nozzle has to ooze. Change temperature first, then travel (non-printing) speed. I usually go overboard and go with like 300-800 but make sure it's north of 250. THEN retraction speed, then retraction distance. You want retraction speed somewhere around 30-60 depending on how dialed in you are (usually), if I'm wrong about this, someone correct me.

You want retraction distance as small as possible, but with bowden I've found 4-10mm the typical range (but depends entirely how long the tube is, or even the type of filament).

Do you have

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M572_Set_or_report_extruder_pressure_advance

In your config? I don't recall what mine is set to, there is a thread here about an in-depth analysis of pressure advance.

What filament are you using out of curiosity? What brand?

Everything comes into play and every variable must be flawless in order to get the results you're looking for. Start eliminating variables. carefully and methodically. It's time-consuming, yes, but we're working on automating additive manufacturing, standardizing 3D printing.

@veti said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

first check that your probe/endstop triggers using
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M119_Get_Endstop_Status

then see
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe

I suspect it has to do with the calibration of the z probe because it homes perfectly, the z end stop is at the top for this reason and I use the BLTouch strictly just to mesh the bed.

It is when I try to mesh the bed with the DWC that it just drives right into the bed, it did the first time, now I know it will happen as I tell it to stop 50 or 25 mm away from the bed, wait there for a couple moments, then go to the bed mesh. I am going to recalibrate the z probe after I watch this OpenAI live symposium:)

@veti said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

with the duet maestro yes. you need another cable for the second exp and swap the plastic housing of exp1 and exp2 around. and connect those to the maestro

When I was looking to do this, there was very little, if any, documentation on how to do this. It was exceedingly frustrating as I was probably doing it quite early on. I would have like to do this because I gave my maestro away because I just said "f*** this!" and bought a wifi.

I have an issue with my printer now, since the SD card got wiped, that is making the nozzle crash into the bed and it is exceedingly frustrating.

@baesjerker

@dc42

Haha so the 1000 mA I had set in my config mayyyyyy be toooo much is what you're trying to say

hmmmmm hahaha

@jamesm said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

I've been using the following currents on my Ender 3 since I put the Duet wifi in it without issue.
M906 X950.00 Y950.00 Z850.00 E900.00 I30

I think the motors at their hottest hit mid 40C range so not hot for stepper motors.

hmmm, I wonder why yours are fine...800 it is for now

@paulhew said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

If you would like to see my settings for my ender3 with a BL Touch for comparison, please let me know.

I would be curious what XY offset you are using and what mount you are using, I kinda eye-balled it with my dial caliper.

It is worth noting that my bedmesh and bed.g files are most likely going to change, but it hits the bed right now, so, for now, it is good enough to move onto the next problem.

I would be curious what is different between ours,

@chas2706

Yeah, hopefully, the way I use them is not going to cause an unnecessary issue. I'll admit, that has been a fear that has not left the back of my mind. As long as I put them where they should be, it shouldn't be much of an issue.

@baesjerker

You are welcome! I know what it is like to switch to a superior....thing...whatever that may be, software, hardware, programming languages, manufacturing techniques, ect. Only to be limited by the genuine lack of exposure to it and the first couple hours, days, weeks, or months are just deeply disappointing, discouraging, frustrating, and you end up questioning if it was the right decision if it is bad enough.

That is not what people need for additive manufacturing, better OSH, better FOSS, or just in regard to learning in general.

I am sure if you are less busy than I am the next few days, you might get it printing fairly quickly (it is not hard once it homes correctly)

You can try to calibrate it yourself to learn some of the code and whatnot. if you do, keep this code in the back of your mind when you are calibrating extrusion and when you are printing test cubes to verify dimensional accuracy (don't forget there is a big difference between high-resolution and high-precision/accuracy).

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M579_Scale_Cartesian_axes

That along with

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M572_Set_or_report_extruder_pressure_advance

These are two vital codes that make tuning SO MUCH EASIER!

This may very well change but as of right now I have M572 set to

M572 D0 S0.074										; pressure advance

in the bottom of my config.g a few lines above my M501 command.

You want a 123 block is because it is a precise way to set the nozzle height without touching the bed (I do not heat the nozzle, but i clean it thoroughly before I calibrate so I know I am touching metal, not plastic).

No damage to the bed and the calibration is perfect. Just make sure you swap out the springs for solid bed mounts, I got mine at Ace and I would have to get a part number to tell you exactly what it is, but now my bed remains the same height. In the CNC realm, consistency is what you need to achieve repeatable precision.

https://youtu.be/nIjM3FZahjE?t=115

I just use 25.4 mm for my z height because 1.0000" is exactly equal to 25.4 mm, no trailing numbers, no nothing.

If you do this though, add a mm or two or three to either the first layer or subtract a couple from your overall Z height (distance from high-end Z endstop) because it is too close to the bed print normally!

If you do this, incrementally lower the nozzle slowly because that will be 1.0000" to touching the bed, not the few thou high to allow the plastic to come out of the nozzle. If you forget to add a few thousandths of an inch to this, you will damage your bed.

I will keep this post updated but I will be a bit busy over the next three days with the ABB Yumi getting delivered at work tomorrow morning.

@dc42

Yeah, I am on

Firmware Version: 2.03beta1 (2019-02-03b3)

Which I know isn't your latest release, it is my fault it happened, I just think that it is easy enough to do without thinking about it and it could be devastating to someone else. I'll probably update it tonight or tomorrow. I was going to do it before I give it to the lady, but if there are bug fixes in general then it is worth it for me to just upgrade. I have been bit lazy recently haha. Thank you.