Topics created by NoSkillzEngineer

From the video:

I hear it skipping teeth on the belt. I can't see the bottom mechanical endstops.... but I believe it is hitting these. Also, I see a ton of Z movement that shouldn't be there.

Please post the entire contents of config_override.g and config.g.

@dc42:

For a Kossel i suggest you aim for at least 200mm/sec XY motion.

Half an amp rated current is much too low. The motor will have high inductance and this will reduce the speed at which torque drops off.

I am not using steppers. The amperage is low because of the motors I am using, the dynamic friction of the motor is near zero without a gearhead. Moving a piece a paper requires more force, it is actually genuinely difficult to believe. The motor company knows what I want to do and this is the motor I am thinking of using.

https://www.micromo.com/2232s024bx4ie3-1024l-26-1-134-1-mg10.html

Or I was thinking something like this but with a 5mm shaft with a flat edge or a laser welded GT2 16 tooth pulley on the end (they will do that for me).

https://www.micromo.com/3242g024bx4-32a-19-1.html

I am already talking to a hardware engineer that will help me make a bldc driver based on the Duet2 1.03 github files and the code is written in C++ right?

I have a software engineer friend that can help me and another hardware engineer to help me do the firmware if the gentleman I am paying is only giving me the microprocessor code and not helping me configure your fork of reprapfirmware.

If you remember talking to me about this months ago, maybe over a year ago (I think originally on the reprap forum) then this should sound familiar. I tried to learn enough about motors and firmware to do this entirely on my own. After however long it has been, I have learned how little I truly know. Since that discussion however long ago, I have developed a tremendous amount of respect for what you guys have done to get the Duet to where it is. I realized that doing this myself is unrealistic so I am paying a hardware engineer that has agreed to help me do this. I intend on only making about half a dozen of them and will post the files up when I receive everything from the hardware engineer. I was not originally going to openly say that I am doing this, I am simply because you were the one to respond.

I intend on being able to use servo amplifiers similar to how steppers can use external stepper drivers. I told the guy to allow me to use encoders similar to these or the optical style. I told him that I didn't need the SD, LCD, and GPIO/50 pin header and that I needed at least 5 drives, with a Z-axis that could be powered by two as well if needed. He said it would take him about 4 weeks and he is doing it in Altium because of the library support. He knows Altium, not KiCAD. I was working with the cards I had. Am I wrong to think that the servo amplifier will be the tailored device for the motors? I have Nema 23 three-phase brushless motors (sensorless) with hall effect sensors on each phase measuring back EMF and since it should detect the edge of each pole…I believe it would act as an incremental encoder that would allow for positioning as well as rotor position. I am assuming 5v signal. I told the hardware/electrical/electronic/power electronics engineer that I wanted to use both the Faulhaber motors as well as the cheap Nema 23 BLDC.

MicroMo (The Faulhaber Group) agreed to donate motors to this project of mine because this should open the door to laser cutters, waterjets, mills, routers, and metal printers.

I do not know if it will remain in the same physical footprint. I probably should ask. I am also going to update the connector/headers because the ones that are on my Duet Wifi 1.01 are no longer sold from Digikey so I am going to use something more modern and lockable, I am thinking of the ones similar to the ones in PC's and are keyed so a child could do it....because I might use them for a class for kids. I am also probably going to use a USB Type-C connector so I can use a magnetic connector so I do not have to worry about and port wear. Using these motors means I can realistically think of a motor that is small enough and strong enough to be a direct drive motor for a Kossel and you said it yourself brushless as an extruder motor would be beneficial.

I admit....I am a bit crazy. There is a method to my madness and I am thinking by doing this it opens up a lot of doors. 🙂

Faulhaber motors are very expensive, I am not promoting them nor am I suggesting anyone purchase them. I have access to these motors completely free of charge. If the board can also be used with less expensive brushless motors...then it is a win in my book. I need a machine that can compete with the best additive manufacturing machines on the planet for my prototypes so I am using the resource available to me that is this motor company. I am not starting a company, not selling them for profit, I am just building a few for myself and will post the files when I get them. 🙂

and you measured at both sides of the stack tp eliminate any possible tilt in the gauges (I do know what type of Gauges your referring to I used to use them a long time ago and I would normally call the go-nogo hole gauges as normally they are double ended so one should fit and the other not.

What I mean is are you certain that the gauges where parrallel rather than like \ / (Exaggerated)

@dc42:

@NoSkillzEngineer:

I'll try doing this correctly, so just to be clear, jump 1 to 2 & 3 to 4 and put the main two wires in 2 & 3? The main two wires go in what terminals? (Assuming from left to right with the terminals facing me).

That's correct.

Okay, thank you. I'll try it this weekend.

@DjDemonD:

@NoSkillzEngineer:

@DjDemonD:

I'd be suspicious of the bed not being very flat my bed is 6mm cast aluminium machined tooling plate and a 2040 frame. I get 0.004 deviation using smart effector.

Rolled aluminium especially 2mm will deform when heated.

Oh I know the bed isn't particularly flat, got a new bed on order but hoping bed mesh compensation could do a good enough job. I think effector tilt may or may not be responsible for some of the error. I'm thinking of machining my own bed and using a heated chamber…I'll do it on my CoreXY instead though I don't feel like making an enclosure for this Kossel.

Thing is, the calibration routine presumes the bed is flat, although it can be tilted if using 8 factor - S8. So to achieve a really low calibration deviation you need to be calibrating onto a flat bed. If you aren't then any level of precision in your build will not give you single micron deviation values. Grid/mesh compensation can reliably enable full bed printing.

Good news! I got the new bed in which appears to be much flatter and much thicker Al heat spreader! I still have to bore the holes out for 5mm screws but it should product a better result later tonight.

It is worth noting that I have been cheap and have not changed my Buildtak sheet which is sorta…kinda...super marred haha so....yeah. I have made some foolish mistakes.

Another good thing that happened is that my friend gave me a very precise mini protractor that I can use to measure effector tilt!
quick question...how exactly is each axis defined? Does the axis start from the tower and directly outward so that they meet in the middle creating the (0,0)? This might seem like a dumb question, the reason I ask is because the digital protractor only measures one direction at a time. For better understanding, on a Cartesian machine if I was leveling the bed I could only do X + and X - at a time.

This is the tool I was given: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/73896714

It was free so I am hoping this is precise enough to do what I need it to do.

So my question is: Can I use this to measure each axis individually for effector tilt well enough? It is worth noting that I would have to remove the hot end and place it directly on the effector and stack my 1" spacers on each other to use as a probe surface against the underside of the effector, taking into account the minor tolerance stacking of my spacers. I would calibrate it, measure the length of the hot end, then install the tool head and reset the zero verifying by measuring the offset with calipers.

I was thinking eliminating the tool head might make measuring the effector tilt easier since each spacer is 1" tall and is about 1.651" in diameter. The Dia doesn't matter but it is wide enough to tell whether the effector is flat against it or not.

If you always need to press an emergency stop button then the best way would be to connect one directly to the machine and to set up a trigger. Since DWC now has a swipe menu, it will always remain on top in that menu. I think that is sufficient.

If you have your limits set then after you home the machine it should not go past the set limits.

Apparently the motors on a delta are supposed to be labeled in an anticlockwise direction too haha whoops.

….........Nevermind.

All I will say is there is 3D printing, which requires high precision but only up to a point. You are still making things by typically extruding plastic through a 0.4mm nozzle. Maybe you prefer a 0.15mm nozzle? Achieving 0.1mm precision on printed objects is quite achievable with much less precise hardware than you are talking about. However, there comes a point where it stops being 3d printing or engineering IMO and becomes physics. This is a different thing. Our piezo probes can achieve 10 microns accuracy, I've tested configurations which achieved an accuracy of 5 microns (0.00019685inch). Does this matter to 3D printing - no. We are working at a scale 1-2 orders of magnitude larger than this.

Check out this guy's printers I think it will be up your street.. https://www.nscrypt.com/3d-printing/ 12.5 micron layers, Z probes using laser interferometry etc…

One tiny flaw that I see is that you mention "printing furniture" and "quickly" in the same sentence. I think you'll find that a trip to IKEA would be both quicker and cheaper (unless you have free source for several kms of filament).