Topics created by Nuvag

@nuvag said in How to debug heater faults:

It would be pretty unlikely to have additionally a sporadic leaking heater cartridge, so i wonder if static electricity could be to blame? It could be provided by the gearing of the zesty nimble, the plastic flowing through the nozzle or the nozzle rubbing on the previously printed layer.

Any leak inside a heater cartridge is likely to be temperature-sensitive.

It's certainly possible that static electricity could be part of the problem. Ideally the hot end metalwork should be grounded, either directly or through a resistor. Anyway, I think you've found the main explanation - a leaky thermistor cartridge.

Images: https://imgur.com/a/RPKQe

Notice i used a 25mm spacer for attaching the extruder motor mount which helped, but once attached to the rods it won't come off again.
It features a swivel mount as i found the steel cable was applying too much force when the print head was near the z tower (as the bend radius was too small).

The red string that is attached to the cable is a constant velocity spring using a flexible matierial, which i just attached and did help, too (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:448340)
I think this could work but has to be printed stronger and need to use a proper mount on the top extrusions.

as long as you applied the M666 and M665 then the M579 is good to get to your goals lol

Just a short update:
After replacing the 30mm e3d fan with a 40mm one, pwm works great at all frequencies.
However still have to set the frequency to >20khz to not have either flickering LEDs or an anoying sound.

For anyone looking for the solution to using G10 in stead of M104 and M109 in Simplify3D. It is explained on the page: https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1959

The relevant part is this (under starting G-Code):
"If you're not a fan of the fact that Simplify3D heats up the bed/extruder, than runs your starting-script, you can customize this, by using the commands below. If you have the commands for [bed#_temperature] or [extruder#_temperature] in your starting G-Code script, the software won't add in heating commands, it will just run off of the commands in your starting script."

So if we want to use G10 instead, we can simply prepend our starting Gcode Script (from the Scrips tab, and Starting Script tab) with something like this:

M140 S[bed0_temperature] R40 ; set the active and standby temperatures for heatbed
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 S[extruder0_temperature] R155 ; set the active and standy temperatures
M106 S[fan_speed_pwm] ; ensure our fan is at our starting speed, while we heat to our targets
M116 ; wait for temperatures to reach their targets

You can also, if you want to heat the heatbed first, add the wait (M116) also before setting the extruder temperatures.

I have tested this and it works as we expect (S3D no longer adds its own heater instructions, and the starting temperature is what is st for Layer 0 in the temperature settings). Obviously the Standby temperature is set manually.

Should you also want to set the heatbed and extruder to their standby temperatures, you can add the following to the ending script:

T-1 ; set all tools to their standby temperatures

This will allow you to easily continue with another print, (only heating up from the standby temps and not having to heat everything up again). In the DWC interface, while pr9inting there is an option "Enable Auto-Sleep" which will run M1 (Sleep or Conditional stop), which will shutdown heaters and motors when done.

I found the cause (in front of the monitor) 🙂

Wasn't aware G31 is only used for auto calibration, was thrown of by "If, in later prints, you find the first layer is too thick or too thin, adjust the value in your G31 command" https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_up_automatic_probing_of_the_print_bed
Which is only sufficient when autocalibrating afterards which i don't.

I use auto calibration only for initial setup after changes on the printer. I found its not necessary to auto calibrate every time and it doesnt work when there is glue stick/hairspray/tape on the glass which i don't want to remove regularly.
So i needed to increase G31 Z and M665 H parameter with 0.075.

@dc42
I don't have a config-override.g

I'm experiencing the same issue. It seems to be resolved…... correct? If so, what firmware should I install?

Yeah you are probably right about its unusual to use these, but i found it quite handy.
When printing flexible materials (where retraction cannot be used with a bowden) its beneficial to use much higher accelleration and jerk to keep the pressure level as constant as possible and reduce oozing on travel moves (as they are faster). Overall this produces nicer parts, even when ringing artifacts could be worse.
Additionally with Simplify3D its realy nice to use multiple processes to print faster on non critical parts and slower where fine details matter.

Just ordered a smart pcb effector and a zesty nimble. Im not quite sure if i will be happy with the nimble, but it looks like its currently the best solution.

I uploaded my version of the carriage adaptor:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2807725

I could bend the "hook" to all sides about 8-10mm with moderate force.
With the new one its more like 1-2mm, but i suspect half of it is because of using PLA instead of PETG.

Probably not of much use for your Bigbox though.

As you mentioned a 'horrible noise':
As soon as i activate pressure advance i hear a grinding sound which i suspect is caused by play in the gearing of the extruder or the speed change of the extruder. It gets more pronounced the higer i set the pressure advance, at S0.5 its almost as loud as a skipping extruder.