Posts made by petrzmax

Hi again!

The parts have come yesterday and I have rebuilded and recalibrated my extruder. Also, I have switched to relative extrusion and x128 microstepping which I think helped a bit. Here are the results:

As You can see its much better and almost perfect. Almost, because now new lines have appeared. From my research I know that it's related to stepper settings. Changing TBL and TOFF had impact on this pattern. The question is does somebody made this lines disappear on TMC2660? I know that on prusa printers they can modify stepper waveform to make it disappear, but is there a fix for us, Duet users? I'm already on 0.9 deg motor with titan Aero.

@phaedrux Idea Maker. But I was trying also Cura and S3D. Every slicer produced similar problems.

@phaedrux Yeah, it was main setting at the beginning.

@phaedrux I'm using this command M566 P1. Models on photo were printed with this setting. Sure I'm on 2.03

@sethipus My mistake, I mean S0.046 or S0.042 - I'm on direct setup Have You tried Capricorn bowden tube? It has 1.9 mm inner diameter and it's much more precisely made than standard white bowden tube. So Your system will be less flexible. I was using it above 1 year ago when I was using bowden 3D printer and it worked a bit better. But the bowden was short, about 40 cm, so on larger tube like Yours it might help You more than me.

That's the reason why I have build my printer with direct extruder. It's more accurate, less pressure problems etc.

@sethipus Thank You for professional answer. To be honest I was experimenting with pressure advance. I have been testing a few different tests to achieve best corners etc. also I was using two different tests to set proper value. If I remember right, my value for it was S0.46, or S0.42. Take a look on the last photo there are muuch thicker lines visible which excludes PA problem.

This is really good attempt but I think there is some mechanical problem with the extruder. Yesterday I have found that it was leaking and my titanium heat break was bent! :C I'm going to rebuild it with some higher quality parts from e3d which I have ordered today. Also, I will assemble it which muuuch more caution.

I will give You info guys how the results are looking after reassembling.

@phaedrux A bit. But it's not a huge difference.

@phaedrux Tried it while ago, but it looks the same. It's a bit wors where the seam is starting.

@themelle I think that reducing flow rate made amplitude of this noise smaller. But it's still there. REducing it more will give me underextrusion :X

@themelle Thanks, I will give it a try, but I think that it's not the case. I have calibrated everything (flow, e-steps etc.)

Hi!

I have almost finished my printer based on Duet 3D Wifi. Everything is almost perfect! Except one problem which I think, may be a problem with Inconsistent Extrusion, but I'm really not sure at the moment.

It's a CoreXY printer with falling bed. Everything is moving on V-slots. Extruder: Titan Aero (chinese) with e3d pancake 0.9 deg. motor. Hotend temperature is stable, I'm using PT100 sensor which works great.

What i have tried:

• Changing Extruder current (from low to high)
• Changing Z motors current (from low to high)
• Changing filament tension (from low to high)
• Loosing threaded rod backlash clearance screw
• Trying different flexible coupler mounting ways
• Changing belt tension (from low to high)
• Disabling retraction
• Disabling Z-hop
• Different microstepping modes on extruder
• Different microstepping modes on Z axis motors
• Changing Extruder Jerk (from low to high)
• Changing Z Axis Jerk (from low to high)

Unfortunately none of above attempts make any change in the surface quality.

I'm out of ideas at the moment. I hope that You guys can give me some ideas where I should be looking for the solution.

I was thinking if bad quality pulleys, for example misaligned center of the hole can create effect like this.

@deckingman So do You think that it's worth trying higher motor current? Which should fix this problem on slower moves?

@diamondback Let us know about the results!

@nophead Thanks for the idea! I will try to give it a go, but I'm on CoreXY and ther might be a problem with twisting them. Never tried twisting them before

@diamondback I'm in fabricating phase aswell. The research I made told me that it should make ghosting less visible and get rid of this lines. Unfortunatelly i have not standard derlin idlers so I will need to print idlers. I hope they will be good quality. If they will not I will need to buy metal ones and redesigns some parts which I'm trying to avoid.

I have found the solution. You need to use teeth idlers instead of flat.

I have measured mine and it was the same distance which You measured.

@nophead I have similiar problem and I have toothed belts running tooth side inwards over smooth pulleys. Do You think that it cause this problem?

I had this problem also on the printer which has belts only on tooth pulleys.

@dc42 That's true. I don't have full range speed control, but I prefer at least some control rather than not working fan. If there is some hardware solution to get this fan working at full range I will be more than grateful for some schematic etc.

Best regards from Poland,
Artur