Posts made by RAM

@hackinistrator yea the original was a TPU profile I was setting up but I didn't realise I had exported that profile, I will use what you sent me as it is so much nicer and seems to have removed that pause as well at the end of each move.

I will have a go using your settings but upping the printing speed to 70mms and also try prusa slicer and see how I get on with it.

I know Simplify3D were meant to be releasing a v5 but I am not paying again to do the upgrade and by the looks of it, the Prusa Community for the Slicer is really powering the slicer forward.

@hackinistrator whatever you changed seems to have worked wonders. I will delete the other profile and run with what you have done for me.

Only thing that I would like to do is try and minimise the seam line a bit more but if that is all I have to contend with I will gladly put up with that.

If you have any other suggestions to improve it further I would be very grateful.

@hackinistrator yep I am using v4.1.2 which is the latest. I am more than happy to try a different slicer even though I am not familiar with other slicers. I did used to use Cura years ago when I 1st got my Hictop in clone but ended switching over to Simplify3D as I found I was getting better prints using it.

I am doing the 20mm cylinder now and I will do the 40mm after to see what the difference is. So far it is looking really good. Haven't a clue what you changed but it seems to be doing the trick so far. Fingers crossed and it will have solved the issue.

@hackinistrator Oh damn it exported the TPU testing profile I was setting up and not the PLA. Sorry that was my fault I didn't realise it had done that.

If you would prefer to look at how the PLA profile is for the printer it is here.

HyperCube-CoreXYPLA.txt

what makes you say the profile is old ?

@hackinistrator here is the S3D printer profile I have.
S3D Hypercube Profile

@pkos thanks for the suggestions. I cant work out what it is. I have checked the belt tensions and I am not using them reinforced white belts with metal strands as I had read that they give problems.

I have even gone back over the mounting points to make sure that nothing had come loose and that the idler pulleys were all freely spinning to the point I even printed new idler pulley mounts and changed them over.

only thing I haven't done yet on the calibration things that you mentioned is the pressure advance tuning and the calibration slat.

I will try the calibration Slat but I am still trying to get my head around the pressure advance tuning thing before I even attempt it.

@hackinistrator said in Ringing on prints:

i think your slicing settings are way off .
what slicer are you using ?

Simplify3D.

This is how they look and to me they look exactly the same.

The small cylinder is 20mm which when measured using digital calipers measured 19.85 - 19.77 when being rotated and the 40mm cylinder measured 39.59 - 39.66 so they are very similar in measured dimensions with the variations. I have done all the axis calibration and the extruder calibration before this started to happen. But does this mean I need to redo the calibrations again ? Or could this be something else that is throwing the prints out ?

One thing I did notice when I was running this print is that it does seem to pause at the end of each layer for a moment unlike my Sidewinder X1 which is almost completely seamless with movements as it is printing.

@Phaedrux @dc42 said in Ringing on prints:

While printing, are the hot end and bed temperatures flat in the temperature graph displayed by DWC, or are there is oscillations?

My heated bed is a 24v version that runs directly from the Duet 2 wifi board and when looking at the DWC as it is heating up on the graph it climbs up to the commanded temperature has a very slight deviation at the end where it overshoots by a few degrees then levels out nice and flat and both the hotend and bed stay flat whilst printing.

I will do 2 cylinders to see what is happening as suggested later.

@o_lampe said in Ringing on prints:

@RAM said in Ringing on prints:

But on another print I did that was bigger the banding is a lot more pronounced like it is increasing with the size of whatever is printed.

An overheated print, like a small single wall part, printed without part-fan would sink in. But in your case it is the opposite.
Still the PID tuning of the hotend is in question.
After the tuning, did you store the new hotend-parameters with M500 and also read them with M501 in config.g?
Can you look at the hotend temp while printing and tell us what the biggest temperature swing is? (A screenshot of DWC will work too)

Yep definitely used the M500 after doing the PID tune. I will run another print and do a screenshot of the DWC.

I don't have a SSR on the heated bed as to be honest I wasn't sure how to set one up or wire it in. So I would assume that it is running in Bang Bang mode if running it in PWM requires it to have a SSR

@o_lampe https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:557527
There is a few different ones on that site. All I did was printed it in vase mode for a test.

The bearings were really smooth as I tested them when I 1st built it and it probably has done less than 100 hours of printing. But on another print I did that was bigger the banding is a lot more pronounced like it is increasing with the size of whatever is printed.

@Phaedrux yes I did both the bed and hotend. Just can't work out why it is in a perfect pattern after about the 1st inch.

Hi guys wondering if someone could give me any ideas as to what could be causing this strange pattern that is happening when I print.

I thought it was because my z axis lead screws were unsupported at the top but I have since added bearing supports to the top and it hasn't made any difference.
I have calibrated the extruder and X Y axis steps and it hasn't made a difference.

My printer is a Hypercube evolution with X & Y MGN rails that are smooth to move. I have also checked that the belts are running true without rubbing on the idler pulleys.

I have also tried printing in PLA and PETG to see if it was the filament and did a vase mode print too which came put like this.

@Veti ok fair enough was just wanting it to be center but I can see your logic. Thanks very much for all the help.

@Veti said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

what is the size of your bed?

of you go to Y<size of your bed> are you exactly on the other edge?

The bed is X 320 Y 310, the maximum I can get to on the opposite corner (Back right) From (G0 X0 Y0) is X270.0 Y285.0 which this is set in the Gcode in S3D

@Veti said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

i dont quite follow.
are you saying its physically not possible to reach 0,0 with your nozzle?

That is what it looks like when the X axis is at 0 which is -4

It also homes at X -4 as that is where the home switch is at and I cannot move the X axis endstop.

Let's make this a bit simpler. Forget the X axis. The Y axis is not in the middle when printing still it is still out of center even though I have changed the M208 as I was instructed to.

@Veti said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

after the change if you go to x0 y0 is it exactly above the edge?

homing all axis then sending command (G0 X0 Y0) moves the nozzel so that it is at the left corner of the bed. BUT I cannot move the X axis over so that it is closer to the edge of the bed as its maximum movement is X-4 and that is also where it homes to which that I don't have a issue with.

@dc42 said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

There is a wiki page about how to centre prints. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Centering_the_bed_or_setting_the_bed_origin

Yes I have read that before I even asked for help with this issue.
using the quote from that wiki page.

Xmin edge of the bed is at X=-100 and the homing switch triggers at X=(-100-8) = -108mm. Similarly, the Ymax edge of the bed is at Y=100 and the Y homing switch triggers at Y=(100+2) = 102mm. So we can use the following commands in config.g:

M208 S0 X-108 Y-100 ; set axis lower limits
M208 S1 X100 Y102 ; set axis upper limits

Xmin edge of the bed is atapproximately X=-14 and the homing switch triggers at X=(-4)
it homes to X-4 as that is where the home optical sensor is and I am not able to move it as that is the maximum of the frame size!

The Y Axis when homed is at -15 when moved to the edge of the bed using
(G0 X0 Y0) it is at the edge of the bed as it is expected to be following the instructions kindly given to me both by @Veti and that wiki page, However when sending a file to print it is not printing in the middle of the bed as the above picture clearly shows.

So I set the M208 in the config to
; Axis Limits
M208 X-4 Y-15.0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X270 Y285 Z480 S0 ; set axis maxima

So in short I don't have a clue as to why. I am clearly missing some bit of information or instructions that have been given to me.
Sorry if this is a pain to have to deal with but I need the help in trying to resolve this.

I am not bothered about the fact that the upload of gcode files fail when they are of a large size that never got sorted out and am quite happy to be pulling the SD card out of the Panel and transferring them that way from now on and having to baby step the DC42 Z-probe down to it's proper printing height even though it was definately setup correctly by me and Phaedrux in the start of this months ago. but having the prints not center to bed is something that I would very much like to get resolved as I am not able to utilise the whole of my print bed size due to the constraints of the frame size.

@Veti said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

if it for example reads

X7 Y6
then you need to subtract that from the your minimum values so that the x and y position are reduced.
i.e M208 X-11 Y-31.0 Z0 S1

Did what you told me to but nothing has changed.

; Axis Limits
M208 X-4 Y-15.0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima was Y-25
M208 X270 Y285 Z480 S0 ; set axis maxima

@Veti

So move the head till it is directly above the corner of the bed then change the M208 so it says what the X & Y are if I am understanding you correctly.

@Veti said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

@RAM said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

If I do home all from the DWC and then send (G0 X0 Y0) the print head goes to the front left corner of the print bed, If I then use the DWC to move the print head to the bed center the X&Y are at X143.0 Y153.0

again forget about the center of the bed.

is x0 y0 direct above the outermost point of the bed?

yes it is on the left front corner probably in about 8mm from the very edges of the bed.

@Veti said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

@RAM said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

but that doesnt seem to move it to center of the bed for some reason it is slightly out on the Y Axis. If I use the DWC and move it so that it is in the center as I need it then the Y should be at Y150 but it keeps kicking it down more when I print I can't figure it out.

forget trying to work that out in the center.

you got to work it out at 0,0
all the adjustment is happening with the M208

ok let me get this right before I go doing anything.
Home all axes then send the (G0 X0 Y0) via the DWC Console and then measure the distance to real X0 and Y0 (to where the certer of the bed is?)

If I home using the DWC Home X & Y buttons they home to X -4 Y -25 which is at the front left corner of my printer. If I use the home all then they home to X146.0 Y 150.0 which is bed center.

If I do home all from the DWC and then send (G0 X0 Y0) the print head goes to the front left corner of the print bed, If I then use the DWC to move the print head to the bed center the X&Y are at X143.0 Y153.0

What do I change this to
; Axis Limits
M208 X-4 Y-25.0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X270 Y285 Z480 S0 ; set axis maxima

I thought the axis minima & maxima was so that the printer knew what it was allowed to move the print head to as in a coded safe minimum and maximum movement limits