After digging around on the internet for a couple of hours I think I found what type both thermistors are but I cant find the C value for them and I am not sure which to pick from the list in the RRF configuration tool as there seems 2 that have similar Beta settings
The ones I think the thermistors are these 100K ohm NTC 3950FB

@Phaedrux said in Extruder Motor Getting Hot.:

It also looks very glossy which can mean it's printed too hot.

Look into doing a temp tower test where the temp gets changed at certain points up a tower so you can visually see the results. If the thermistor isn't very accurate when you think you are using 210 it could actually be 240. So in absence of accurate measurements, you can still determine a good set point experimentally. In other words, it doesn't matter if you use 190 or 220 so long as the results look good.

Not sure what you think but 205c looks ok to me and it is also what is recommended on the filament.

@Phaedrux I have tried it again and though it is creating the resurrect file now it is not resuming, I think my power supply maybe the issue here so I will have to leave this where it is until I can purchase a better power supply for the printer.

Plus I am waiting on a new e3d brass hotend nozzel as I think a lot of my stringging issues could be due to the hardened nozzel I have from what I have read elsewhere.

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to help me with this.

@o_lampe https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:557527
There is a few different ones on that site. All I did was printed it in vase mode for a test.

The bearings were really smooth as I tested them when I 1st built it and it probably has done less than 100 hours of printing. But on another print I did that was bigger the banding is a lot more pronounced like it is increasing with the size of whatever is printed.

@hackinistrator yea the original was a TPU profile I was setting up but I didn't realise I had exported that profile, I will use what you sent me as it is so much nicer and seems to have removed that pause as well at the end of each move.

I will have a go using your settings but upping the printing speed to 70mms and also try prusa slicer and see how I get on with it.

I know Simplify3D were meant to be releasing a v5 but I am not paying again to do the upgrade and by the looks of it, the Prusa Community for the Slicer is really powering the slicer forward.

@hackinistrator whatever you changed seems to have worked wonders. I will delete the other profile and run with what you have done for me.

Only thing that I would like to do is try and minimise the seam line a bit more but if that is all I have to contend with I will gladly put up with that.

If you have any other suggestions to improve it further I would be very grateful.

@hackinistrator yep I am using v4.1.2 which is the latest. I am more than happy to try a different slicer even though I am not familiar with other slicers. I did used to use Cura years ago when I 1st got my Hictop in clone but ended switching over to Simplify3D as I found I was getting better prints using it.

I am doing the 20mm cylinder now and I will do the 40mm after to see what the difference is. So far it is looking really good. Haven't a clue what you changed but it seems to be doing the trick so far. Fingers crossed and it will have solved the issue.

@hackinistrator Oh damn it exported the TPU testing profile I was setting up and not the PLA. Sorry that was my fault I didn't realise it had done that.

If you would prefer to look at how the PLA profile is for the printer it is here.

HyperCube-CoreXYPLA.txt

what makes you say the profile is old ?

@hackinistrator here is the S3D printer profile I have.
S3D Hypercube Profile

@pkos thanks for the suggestions. I cant work out what it is. I have checked the belt tensions and I am not using them reinforced white belts with metal strands as I had read that they give problems.

I have even gone back over the mounting points to make sure that nothing had come loose and that the idler pulleys were all freely spinning to the point I even printed new idler pulley mounts and changed them over.

only thing I haven't done yet on the calibration things that you mentioned is the pressure advance tuning and the calibration slat.

I will try the calibration Slat but I am still trying to get my head around the pressure advance tuning thing before I even attempt it.

@hackinistrator said in Ringing on prints:

i think your slicing settings are way off .
what slicer are you using ?

Simplify3D.

This is how they look and to me they look exactly the same.

The small cylinder is 20mm which when measured using digital calipers measured 19.85 - 19.77 when being rotated and the 40mm cylinder measured 39.59 - 39.66 so they are very similar in measured dimensions with the variations. I have done all the axis calibration and the extruder calibration before this started to happen. But does this mean I need to redo the calibrations again ? Or could this be something else that is throwing the prints out ?

One thing I did notice when I was running this print is that it does seem to pause at the end of each layer for a moment unlike my Sidewinder X1 which is almost completely seamless with movements as it is printing.

@Phaedrux @dc42 said in Ringing on prints:

While printing, are the hot end and bed temperatures flat in the temperature graph displayed by DWC, or are there is oscillations?

My heated bed is a 24v version that runs directly from the Duet 2 wifi board and when looking at the DWC as it is heating up on the graph it climbs up to the commanded temperature has a very slight deviation at the end where it overshoots by a few degrees then levels out nice and flat and both the hotend and bed stay flat whilst printing.

I will do 2 cylinders to see what is happening as suggested later.

@o_lampe said in Ringing on prints:

@RAM said in Ringing on prints:

But on another print I did that was bigger the banding is a lot more pronounced like it is increasing with the size of whatever is printed.

An overheated print, like a small single wall part, printed without part-fan would sink in. But in your case it is the opposite.
Still the PID tuning of the hotend is in question.
After the tuning, did you store the new hotend-parameters with M500 and also read them with M501 in config.g?
Can you look at the hotend temp while printing and tell us what the biggest temperature swing is? (A screenshot of DWC will work too)

Yep definitely used the M500 after doing the PID tune. I will run another print and do a screenshot of the DWC.

I don't have a SSR on the heated bed as to be honest I wasn't sure how to set one up or wire it in. So I would assume that it is running in Bang Bang mode if running it in PWM requires it to have a SSR

@o_lampe https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:557527
There is a few different ones on that site. All I did was printed it in vase mode for a test.

The bearings were really smooth as I tested them when I 1st built it and it probably has done less than 100 hours of printing. But on another print I did that was bigger the banding is a lot more pronounced like it is increasing with the size of whatever is printed.