Posts made by RodrigoRMaraujo

@gloomyandy and @jay_s_uk
First of all, thanks for answering.

I don't have enough knowledge to start a challenge like this, I have no idea how it would be done lol.
Using canbus would be ideal, because I'm currently converting a machine running klipper, which has an ebb42 board in the car.
Because of the difficulty, I think I'll opt to run all the wiring for the car's accessories (without canbus).

I'm leaving klipper and converting my printers back to RRF because of the complexity of klipper (for me). I want to go back to the simplicity of RRF and not depend on an SBC running linux.

Sorry for the bad English, translated by google.

@jay_s_uk

Please, another question.
If I install the CAN-FD EFD version, will I be unable to use a fysect mini 12864 display that I have?
Thanks.

@jay_s_uk said in CanBus model for octopus pro f429:

@RodrigoRMaraujo https://teamgloomy.github.io/btt_octopus_pro_1.0_f429_spi2canfd_3_5.html
You can add CAN-FD as described here. However it's been suggested to use the EFD version and use the SPI on J74.
Then you can use any toolboard we support with it

Thank you!

Hello everyone.

Is there a model of canbus board that is more suitable to work with MTB Octopus Pro F429?

@jay_s_uk
Thank you!

@gloomyandy
I managed to install and update to version 3.5.4.
I'm confused whether I need to update the wifi firmware or should I keep it as it is working. Can you clarify this doubt for me?
Thank you.

@gloomyandy thank you.
I will read everything!

Hello everyone.
I bought this Octopus Pro F429 with a Wi-Fi module esp32.
Could you tell me if RRF runs on this board?

I haven't learned anything about this RRF variant yet, even though I've been using Duet boards since 2019. I have a Corexy with an Octopus board running Klipper, and I want to replace it with this one with RRF and stop using Klipper.

@droftarts thanks for replying.
This model you mentioned, from aliexpress, theoretically doesn't need any changes to the wiring, right?

Hello everybody.
Is there any type of LCD display for the Duet Maestro that does not require any wiring changes, other than the PanelDue?

I have a mks mini 12864 v3 display (https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005004605578891.html), but I was confused about the change in the wires, I couldn't understand.
Is there any other that is plug and play?

@droftarts yes, I did everything right, but I tried with the wrong firmware.
I was trying to upload the firmware for the duet 2 lol.

Thanks for trying to help me!

@oliof thanks for replying.

I ended up finding the problem.

Since I've already installed a dozen Duet 2 WiFis, and I installed a Maestro over 4 years ago, I didn't remember that the Maestro has a separate binary, specific to it. My mistake!

I uploaded the correct binary, left the card with the correct firmware and it worked 100%! I already have v3.5.4 working.

Returning to AliExpress is practically impossible here in Brazil lol.

I've been buying Duets on AliExpress since 2019, luckily I haven't received a bad one yet.

Problem solved, thank you very much.

Hello everyone!
I just received a Chinese version of the Duet Maestro and I thought it would be a good idea to do a full reset to install RRF 3.0 via Bossa (the same procedure I always do).
I performed the "fallback 2" procedure. The problem is that after Bossa completes without any errors, the board does not turn off the diagnostic LED and is no longer recognized by Windows (the Windows driver is installed). There is no point in pressing the reset button.
I tried using the 2 versions of Bossa available in the documentation.

I tried connecting the board directly to the power supply (without USB) and the diagnostic LED remains on, with the added bonus that the heat bed LED is also on.

The fallback 1 procedure does not work because the board is not recognized so that YAT can connect.

Is there anything else I can do? The board is new.
Thanks.

PS: I bought this board to replace another new board that I ended up burning out by connecting a 3dtouch incorrectly. I'm very unlucky lol.

Hello @droftarts.
It's ok. I just disabled this option because I didn't understand its purpose. When enabled, it copies the same values ​​from the hotend to the table, it seems like a bug to me.
Thank you.

Hello everybody.
Suddenly I caught the board temperatures showing the options configured for the hotend.
Is there anything I can do to fix this?
There is no point in restarting, the problem persists.
I'm still finishing setting up the printer, it's not in production yet.

EDIT: Sorry, I had activated the table's simple control mode and didn't realize what it was.

@droftarts thank you!
While you were writing, I was researching this very documentation.
Thank you very much.

I don't know yet how to mark a topic as resolved. Should I wait for the administration or can I do it myself?

@oliof thank you!
You reminded me of this detail about using the MCU temperature. I've been away from RRF for 2 or 3 years and just got back to it, and I ended up forgetting several details like this.
Thank you very much, problem solved.

M308 S2 Y"mcu-temp" A"MCU" ; configure sensor 2 as on-chip MCU temperature sensor
M950 F2 C"out6" ; create fan #2 - Big Dipper fysect board
M106 P2 C"5015_Drivers" H2 L0.15 X1 B0.3 T40 ; configure fan #2

Hello everyone.
Please, in RRF 3.5 is it already possible to connect a fan to the drivers that works whenever there is movement of any of the axes or extruders?
Thanks!

@dc42 thanks for replying!
I really wasn't thinking about fixing the board, there's no one in my area who can do that.
I've already ordered a new board to replace the one I burned. Since it's a very basic printer, I believe the RRF 3.5 will be perfect for me.
For the other printers, I have the Duet 2 WiFi and "Fysect Big Dipper" boards, and with these I'll be able to keep up with the new versions of the RRF.
I'm going to keep the Maestro that I burned as a souvenir so I don't do this kind of stupid thing again, lol.
Thanks!

@dc42
I can feel the W5500 and SAM4S8 warm, almost cold, I imagine that they are in normal operation (but I don't know anything about electronics). What really draws attention and makes it impossible to connect the Maestro via USB cable is actually the USB connection port, which gets very hot very quickly. About 30 seconds later, even the USB cable gets hot. I turn it off for fear of burning my USB power supply.
When I connect the Maestro to the USB, only a blue LED next to the USB connector lights up, but very weakly. The other LEDs on the board do not light up.
If you want me to do any more tests or connect the conductor directly to 12/24V, just let me know!
Thanks.