Hi,

I've used igus chainflex CF884.006 which packs the following cores into one cable of about 9 mm diameter:
3 pairs of 0,14 mm^2 twisted pair sensor wires (shielded)
4 wires of 0,14 mm^2 (for fans, LEDs)
4 wires of 0,22 mm^2 (for 1 stepper)
2 wires of 0,5 mm^2 (for 1 heater element)

there is another shield around the whole package. It's made for energy chains, so it allows for quite tight radii and is flexible enough so it won't break. I fit a print head with direct drive, heater, sensor, 2 fans and a bltouch (and even an optical endstop) with this cable, I can see if I can still find the according diagram later at home.

Best regards, Niklas

Hi,

first of all, I think DWC is a remarkable puzzle piece in the 3d printing world, which made having a dedicated Control unit on the Printer completely obsolete for me. My printer only has its power button and nothing else (it's sitting directly next to my PC though). Before I worked with Duet, I was constantly searching for "the perfect" UI, considering everything from 12864-style displays with encoder to full fledged touchscreens. So this shows how much of a game changer this well done web interface was for me personally.

That being said, this use case is not for everyone. To answer your question and offer my 2 cents:
I think DWC might have potential to be the truly universal UI for remote and non-remote operation of the printer. Therefore beyond the screen size adapting to smaller (smartphone) and bigger (desktop) screens, there should be different "modes" that you can set up. I'm thinking "printer display" mode which offers at least the functionality that classical 12864-style controllers (or Paneldue ) offer, and "admin" mode like the current DWC UI, offering full access to the printers configuration, files etc. "Printer Display" mode should adapt to smartphones or tablets, maybe offering more tactile UI elements (e.g. knobs for temperature adjustment, if possible), which leaves the user to choose if they want to use their smartphone, or fix a tablet or RPI display to the printer itself (offering the possibility to even add mouse and keyboard there).

I can't really offer any feedback on features I find missing in DWC, because for me personally there are none. Maybe one thing (which would apply to "printer display" and "admin" mode both):
My Anycubic Photon (DLP printer) uses a Chitu board and touchscreen, which shows a little representation of the model in the slicer. It's a screenshot of the slicer window, which makes it difficult to implement in our FDM world as I know of no slicer that offers this atm, but maybe there is a way to have a little graphical representation of the model in the Gcode file list?

HTH, Niklas

@mrehorstdmd said in Behavior of drivers at high speeds:

I milled some teflon bearings for the X axis yesterday

albeit a little late (and slightly OT), I'd like to point out Igus filament for this kind of application... since we're 3D printing around here the I150-PF type is the easiest to print and should be sufficient for your bearings.

Best regards, Niklas

(disclosure: I work for igus)

Hi all,

as i mentioned before i orered new sensors to replace the e3d cartridge type ones. A german shop i found stocks both PT100 and Type K sensors in cartridge configuration:
PT100 click
Type K click

the only drawback is that the Type K variant is only available as 4 mm diameter. They are not even expensive however and (to my experience) of much higher build quality than the e3d types. The lead length is variable and they feature ferrule ends matching the Duet Daughterboards perfectly (as opposed to the e3d types which have to be fitted). Last but not least they are specifically rated for 400 °C and 550 °C respectively. I am running the PT100 type right now and am finally able to print again.

Best regards, Niklas

for anyone interested, meet me at the igus booth (hall 11.1 / booth C19) and check out my duet powered high temperature printer, and find out why I'm so desperately in need of chamber temperature display and control on the PanelDue!
Best regards, Niklas

@deckingman drylin is an interesting mention, but they have to be choosen wisely and the machine has to be properly designed to address the fact that you can't have gliding motion without play. It is possible though, and I've seen some stunning results from printers with drylin-everything.
They are practically silent as well.

My own printer, which hasn't been introduced here yet, runs on drylin W (square shape). It's silent (loudest noise comes from the fans, or the steppers when in spreadcycle mode), dust-proof (yes - I'm not using my machine enough, but the drylin rails don't care), but there is some play in the motion system which makes for not-perfect parts (round parts have flat spots). Had I chosen drylin W with the round shape, I could have picked bearing blocks with set screws to tension the gliding elements.

Drylin N is also widely used in printers, as a cheaper alternative.

@wilriker not sure about the BB-one, but we'll have the Protoworx Tiny at our booth as far as I know. It's built similarly, but more ...tiny.

for anyone interested, meet me at the igus booth (hall 11.1 / booth C19) and check out my duet powered high temperature printer, and find out why I'm so desperately in need of chamber temperature display and control on the PanelDue!
Best regards, Niklas

Hi,

clever3D in Germany offers fine build plates from cast & milled aluminium, they make custom plates at very reasonable cost. Maybe they also ship to France, it's worth a try:

https://clever3d.de/Druckplatte-Aluminium-Guss-feinstgefraest

best of luck,

Niklas

@mrehorstdmd said in Behavior of drivers at high speeds:

I milled some teflon bearings for the X axis yesterday

albeit a little late (and slightly OT), I'd like to point out Igus filament for this kind of application... since we're 3D printing around here the I150-PF type is the easiest to print and should be sufficient for your bearings.

Best regards, Niklas

(disclosure: I work for igus)

@gtj0 said in Need some CoreXY advice:

...and I'm thinking about moving to a CoreXY design to get rid of that front cross member that always seems to be in my way.

If I built a printer in the future, it would be a coreXY for multiple reasons including this one. However, just choosing coreXY would indeed allow omitting the beam in front, but you'd still either have the belts running across the frame opening in the front, or the motors in the front left and right depending how you orient the belt system. E3D (amongst others) have solved this problem by using one or two more idlers per belt, locating the motors in the back while keeping the open front with their toolchanger platform.

not really answering your question, but I thought this might be interesting as well.

Hi,

I've used igus chainflex CF884.006 which packs the following cores into one cable of about 9 mm diameter:
3 pairs of 0,14 mm^2 twisted pair sensor wires (shielded)
4 wires of 0,14 mm^2 (for fans, LEDs)
4 wires of 0,22 mm^2 (for 1 stepper)
2 wires of 0,5 mm^2 (for 1 heater element)

there is another shield around the whole package. It's made for energy chains, so it allows for quite tight radii and is flexible enough so it won't break. I fit a print head with direct drive, heater, sensor, 2 fans and a bltouch (and even an optical endstop) with this cable, I can see if I can still find the according diagram later at home.

Best regards, Niklas

Hi everyone,

you should also consider how the remote Signal wire is connected to the PSU (physically). I've used a similar Meanwell PSU before, and have not been able to find the matching connector anywhere (EDIT: because I obviously can't read , see below… irrelevant, then). You'd have to contact single pins inside the small connector on the PSU (not sure if 1,27 or 2,54 mm spacing).

The easier and more hassle-free way would be to use a relay to switch the Input power to the 24 V PSU. @Jacotheron described this above and in more detail in his answer to my question here. Thank you again.

Best regards, Niklas

Hi,
I've had a great deal of problems with spiking temperature readings when I first installed PT100 sensors in my machine. they would only occur when a print had started and/or the heater was at above a certain temperature level. In my thread you can look at the temperature graphs. I solved this by using a temperature sensor with shielded leads (the shield provides mechanical shielding as well) and grounding the shield at one side.

I have a similar setup to TDD to heat the inside of my printer's chamber. I use an old e3d hotend thermistor (the one with the blue leads) which I installed at the top of the chamber (my reasoning was that the chamber should reach the set temperature up there first). To heat things up, I use a 230V powered 1700W heater accompanied by its matching hot air fan which are both hot oven spare parts. The heater should be set up similiarly to Marks as well. It's limited to 70% duty cycle atm iirc and reaches 180°C in about 45-60 min.