@ComedianTF2 yes i suspected that much, but its good to hear this from someone else. ill dropped the temp by 10C and added a z-hop and optimized the travelpaths. lets see how that turns out.
Posts made by sungod3k
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RE: Leaky extruders
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RE: Leaky extruders
@o_lampe yes prusa slicer has an option for that but I didn't notice much difference
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RE: Leaky extruders
@deckingman leaking directly from the nozzle. And it leaves blobs everywhere. For such a short filament path and comparatively medium to high retraction it leaks too much
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Leaky extruders
Hi,
I got gifted a Artillery Sidewinder X1 which I'm pimping a bit. I used an older V6 and Bondtec QR extruder, both from ca. 5 years ago.
I have it running in direct config, with a volcano hotend and normal e3d .6 brass volcano nozzle.In general the machine runs well, I'm just noticing a very leaky extruder, which I'm not really getting under control. I did some retraction tests and settled for a distance of 1.5mm at 25mm/s.
Since I have been running mainly normal e3d heater blocks and .4 nozzles I wonder is the combo of a bigger nozzle and longer meltzone means that the extruder by default is leakier in general. Or is it simple is that the pressure advance is off?
What do you guys think?
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RE: best post processing method to get smooth prints
@tas good idea to put metal powder in the epoxy. that will give at least a realistic surface if one goes more for a cast iron look.
and yes just layering something over the print instead of sanding and bondo seems more realistic to me.
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best post processing method to get smooth prints
Hi,
I got a request to print a cosplay helmet for someone, but I dont want to sand PLA, or bondo such complex structures.
Im familar with the polysmooth system and im thinking about building a bigger polysher --> [filament2print.com]
but i wonder if there isnt a generally accepted better way or maybe a new material that i havent heard of that sands better than PLA?
Cheers F
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RE: Where to offer 3D printing consultations?
@deckingman true, i will probably make some videos for specific purposes and to say it with gary vee "be a media company first" makes sense.
but as you said. thats a whole lot a different work thats not paid well -
Where to offer 3D printing consultations?
Hi,
a few weeks ago I went on fiverr.com to get a 2nd opinion on a hardware issue I had with a printer I was repairing.
I noticed that while there are many "i will print/ design for you" offers, the "i will fix your printer" or "i help you find the best slicer settings" offers were much rarer.
Just for fun I put up a gig myself titled "i will help you fix your 3d printer" and first nothing happened, but then with the last month I got 8 DMs from which I was able to convert 5 into jobs. 3 of them just concerned bedlevelling and the other ones took a bit of time in a video call but I was able to help most of them.
I priced the gigs at 10$ which doesn't make this a cash cow, but if these jobs come in steadily it could be a source to finance the hobby.
**Of course I would love to post my offerings to other freelancer platforms and there are many, but most of them (like upwork) are very focussed on software dev or marketing and design.
I wonder of some of you have tried something similar or can recommend other freelance platforms where one could post 3d printing help as a gig?**
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RE: estimate cooling performance?
@mrehorstdmd true <2mm would be massive. but that would also double the material use.
the prints im doing are just negative molds that get filled with plaster, so they just need to be stable enough to not deform under the weight of the plaster.and yes ive also noticed that clean retractions with the bigger nozzles are hard. Specifically the de-retract. when the material rips of the from the rest of the material its just not a clean cut, so when the de-retract comes around its a bit messy. (and the z-hop doesnt help)
would be interesting to see if one could set a slicing behavior so that when the de-retract happens and the nozzle waits a tiny bit for the mess to be pressed into the below layer and only then continues its journey.
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RE: estimate cooling performance?
@mrehorstdmd right i dont need detail and the printer also has the tendency for z axis banding, so beauty prints im not producing^^
ive also trimmed the printer for 15m³/s volume. I recently tried cnc kitchens flow calibration but the gcode didnt run correctly for some reason, but just from experimentation i feel that 15 is the volume limit. but printing slow speed but high volume makes total sense, my speed are set at 40mm/s as well
the cpap blow I have to check out.
and I wonder if there is a good calibration piece for layerbonding? for the youtubers in the 3d printing space I havent seen someone test that so far.
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RE: estimate cooling performance?
@oliof I use a stock raise 3d pro+ its a traditional hotend setup with two side mounted 20x20 fans fans a short cooling duct. I run it with the two sidepanels/doors open "always on".
I actually tried the berd air, it hella loud and I had to activly cool the pump motor and since im printing for so long I felt uncomfortable risking the the pump burning out
I saw some voron setups for the speed benchy with huge blowers that create a crosswind across the bed but wouldnt that risk overcooling and delamitnation? there needs to be some time for the material too bond.
maybe then a thicker layer is better because it can still radiate some heat from its center even after blower has moved on..
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estimate cooling performance?
Hi,
I work in orthopedics and I have certain models, that I print over and over with very little variation and its basically one big vase with 40-50cm height, which takes 5-7hrs.
I recently switched from ideamaker to prusaslicer and Im finetuning the profile for speed/overall print time. I have a good idea of how much extrusion volume my hotend can handle.
Im printing PLA relatively hot at 220-225 to get good layerbonding and overall form stability. I use a 1mm nozzle, and a bondtech style extruder.So the main limiting factor is cooling, so I set the minimum layer time to 12s and allowed to print to slow down to 10mm/s, otherwise some overhangs really start to suffer.
Since I cant visualize cooling as nicely as extrusion volume I wonder how I can estimate the "heat evaporation", so get an optimized min layertime.
I had two ideas:
- printing thinner layer (.2mm) at faster speed in order for the model cooling fans to move around more and overall have less material that can cool fast.
- printing thicker layers (.3-.4mm) at slower speed whereby the thicker layers are more self isolating, but also concentrate the fan cooling power longer on the same spot because they move slower.
What would be your method to optimze cooling?
Cheers F.
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RE: Tall 3D printers under 5000$/€
@dc42 yes, i contacted them also, they were a bit slow with the communication and 350 is a bit on the smaller side, but yes tractus is still on my shortlist.
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RE: Tall 3D printers under 5000$/€
@ComedianTF2 Yes thats was actually my first choice.
I wanted the 120Z version, but it only comes as a kit and its company policy to only buy full service machines and i wasnt trusted with building the thing myself.also if you add the comfort features it ends up more on the 6000 side but good thinking.
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Tall 3D printers under 5000$/€
Hi,
i work in orthopedics and we're using a Raise 3d pro 2+ which is fine, but now that we need an additional printer I dont want to buy a 5 year old machine for ~5000€.
The new Pro 3+ however costs 7700€ which is a bit above my budget.
I have looked far and wide for hobby level machines which are totally fine for what we print, but they usually go only up to 400-500mm in Z height, and we need a minimum of 600mm.
So Id like to ask the crowd inteligence: Have you found a normal fdm 3d printer for under 5000€ with a minimum build hight of 600mm?
Cheers
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RE: Someone with a modix printer here? experiences with the machine?
@Phaedrux aha interesting. was that about frame stability?
i found a showroom that has the big 60, so i hope i can take a look myself soon. -
Someone with a modix printer here? experiences with the machine?
Hi,
im thinking about buying a Modix printer (https://www.modix3d.com/big-120z/) for my company and im looking for someone who has used one and wants to share some experiences.
I like the machine mainly because its using duet and all advantages that come with it, but I also heard some weird stuff that mainly has to do with the fact that it comes in a kit.
one supplier also told me that it supposedly took 2 people 10 days to build it which sounds a bit much.
anyway I'd love to hear from some of you who made good or bad experiences with it
Cheers F.
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RE: Berd Air shoots only warm air...
@mrehorstdmd heated chamber is probably too strong a word, but the enclosure is pretty tight and not too bulky. we have to filter the air so usually the doors are closed.
so far ive seen no issues keeping everything a bit warm (the 40C on the bed) and i have the feeling that layer adhesion is better when the whole model stays a bit warmer especially on single wall spiral vase prints.
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RE: Berd Air shoots only warm air...
@nuramori good point. i looked into that. One issue with the whole berd air system is anyway that the pump motor gets really hot. without active cooling I wouldnt leave that alone for longer prints.
however the pump itself doesnt get to too warm. i also checked on the air at different stages. before it enters the printer its at room temp as expected and even before it connects to the aluminium air nozzle its noticeably cooler than when it comes out of the nozzle itself.
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RE: Berd Air shoots only warm air...
@o_lampe yes i have such a chiller for my hydroponics that is of course a solution. ill try to get air from the outside and see if that makes a difference.