Posts made by sungod3k

@jay_s_uk

it s huge 1x1x1 meter machine, so it might not respomd on the normal frequencies

Hi,

today i used input shaping for the first time on a very fragile machine (modix big meter), so far everything worked well thanks to the excellent documentation and i ended up with a good ZVDD compensation at 22hz.

I still have to do some before and after testing however i was a bit suprised by how quick the testing moves were done.

I followed the input shaper plugin and it suggested one x and one y move, which surprised me a bit.
from what i can see from klipper input shaping its a much longer procedure with all kinds of testmoves in all directions, with different speeds and differently long moves.

I wonder if I should add more moves or if I missed a step somewhere, or is there a library of testmoves out there somewhere?

Can someone shed some light on how the input shaper procedure is supposed to be done?

Cheers
F.

@droftarts awesome, thanks. seems to work with prusa placeholders. ill try that!

Hi,

I just got access to a big printer and wanted to play with selective probing, however this feature seems limited to only duet3.
I dont know the software reasons, but technically the wifi2 boards should be able to handle this as well.

Anyway would be a great feature even on Wifi2.

Cheers
F.

Hi,

i just got access to a Modix BigMeter with a 1x1m bed. Its not a very ridgid machine so I wanted to try selective probing https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_mesh_bed however the machine uses a Duet2 Wifi, which doesnt have the native selective probing function.

I thought of using placeholders in the start gcode. E.g. BambuSlicer has:

first_layer_print_min vector<float> The print area of the first layer
first_layer_print_max vector<float> The print area of the first layer
first_layer_print_size vector<float> Size of the print area of the first layer

However PrusaSlicer doesnt have them and I couldnt find a list of orcaSlicer placeholders, but I dont think they will have those as well.

Can someone think of another way of dynamically changing the probing area of the M557 command?

Cheers
F.

@droftarts I see, well then a WiFi repeater in the room where the printer is located might be the easier choice here

@droftarts great, thanks for the pic, very handy!

Hi,

I recently commissioned a ModixBigMeter and the it got delivered with the Duet Wifi, which works great.
However they decided to no longer use WiFi and bought a Ethernet Module. From what I read and saw on the board itself the WiFiModule is soldered on the board. Or at least it pretty much looks like it.
On the otherhand, why would I be able to buy the EthernetModule extra, if it couldnt be replaced?

I also didnt find any guide on such a conversion, does someone know if this is possible?

Cheers
F.

Hi,

I just bought the Duet Accelerometer 0.2 for a Modix with a Wifi2.

The wiring guide here https://docs.duet3d.com/en/Duet3D_hardware/Accessories/Duet3D_Accelerometer has pictures of the Duet 3

The guide mentions "Duet3D Accelerometer, using the LIS3DH, designed to plug into the SPI Daughterboard header on Duet 2 and 3 mainboards."

Is that the connector that is described here https://docs.duet3d.com/duet_boards/duet_2_wifi_ethernet_maestro/duet2ndgen_connections_v1.0-1.5_d2.1.png as the "temp daughterboard"? and I directly plug it in or do I need another daughterboard for the accelerometer as well?

Cheers
F.

@ComedianTF2 yes i suspected that much, but its good to hear this from someone else. ill dropped the temp by 10C and added a z-hop and optimized the travelpaths. lets see how that turns out.

@o_lampe yes prusa slicer has an option for that but I didn't notice much difference

@deckingman leaking directly from the nozzle. And it leaves blobs everywhere. For such a short filament path and comparatively medium to high retraction it leaks too much

Hi,

I got gifted a Artillery Sidewinder X1 which I'm pimping a bit. I used an older V6 and Bondtec QR extruder, both from ca. 5 years ago.
I have it running in direct config, with a volcano hotend and normal e3d .6 brass volcano nozzle.

In general the machine runs well, I'm just noticing a very leaky extruder, which I'm not really getting under control. I did some retraction tests and settled for a distance of 1.5mm at 25mm/s.

Since I have been running mainly normal e3d heater blocks and .4 nozzles I wonder is the combo of a bigger nozzle and longer meltzone means that the extruder by default is leakier in general. Or is it simple is that the pressure advance is off?

What do you guys think?

@tas good idea to put metal powder in the epoxy. that will give at least a realistic surface if one goes more for a cast iron look.

and yes just layering something over the print instead of sanding and bondo seems more realistic to me.

Hi,

I got a request to print a cosplay helmet for someone, but I dont want to sand PLA, or bondo such complex structures.

Im familar with the polysmooth system and im thinking about building a bigger polysher --> [filament2print.com]

but i wonder if there isnt a generally accepted better way or maybe a new material that i havent heard of that sands better than PLA?

Cheers F

@deckingman true, i will probably make some videos for specific purposes and to say it with gary vee "be a media company first" makes sense.
but as you said. thats a whole lot a different work thats not paid well

Hi,

a few weeks ago I went on fiverr.com to get a 2nd opinion on a hardware issue I had with a printer I was repairing.

I noticed that while there are many "i will print/ design for you" offers, the "i will fix your printer" or "i help you find the best slicer settings" offers were much rarer.

Just for fun I put up a gig myself titled "i will help you fix your 3d printer" and first nothing happened, but then with the last month I got 8 DMs from which I was able to convert 5 into jobs. 3 of them just concerned bedlevelling and the other ones took a bit of time in a video call but I was able to help most of them.

I priced the gigs at 10$ which doesn't make this a cash cow, but if these jobs come in steadily it could be a source to finance the hobby.

**Of course I would love to post my offerings to other freelancer platforms and there are many, but most of them (like upwork) are very focussed on software dev or marketing and design.

I wonder of some of you have tried something similar or can recommend other freelance platforms where one could post 3d printing help as a gig?**

@mrehorstdmd true <2mm would be massive. but that would also double the material use.
the prints im doing are just negative molds that get filled with plaster, so they just need to be stable enough to not deform under the weight of the plaster.

and yes ive also noticed that clean retractions with the bigger nozzles are hard. Specifically the de-retract. when the material rips of the from the rest of the material its just not a clean cut, so when the de-retract comes around its a bit messy. (and the z-hop doesnt help)

would be interesting to see if one could set a slicing behavior so that when the de-retract happens and the nozzle waits a tiny bit for the mess to be pressed into the below layer and only then continues its journey.

@mrehorstdmd right i dont need detail and the printer also has the tendency for z axis banding, so beauty prints im not producing^^

ive also trimmed the printer for 15m³/s volume. I recently tried cnc kitchens flow calibration but the gcode didnt run correctly for some reason, but just from experimentation i feel that 15 is the volume limit. but printing slow speed but high volume makes total sense, my speed are set at 40mm/s as well

the cpap blow I have to check out.

and I wonder if there is a good calibration piece for layerbonding? for the youtubers in the 3d printing space I havent seen someone test that so far.

@oliof I use a stock raise 3d pro+ its a traditional hotend setup with two side mounted 20x20 fans fans a short cooling duct. I run it with the two sidepanels/doors open "always on".

I actually tried the berd air, it hella loud and I had to activly cool the pump motor and since im printing for so long I felt uncomfortable risking the the pump burning out

I saw some voron setups for the speed benchy with huge blowers that create a crosswind across the bed but wouldnt that risk overcooling and delamitnation? there needs to be some time for the material too bond.

maybe then a thicker layer is better because it can still radiate some heat from its center even after blower has moved on..