Topics created by TheLightSpeed

@dc42 it is in the top right on the Plugins page.

@thelightspeed It isn't recommended to install firmware files over DWC if you are using SBC mode. The better way is to upgrade RRF using apt update/upgrade whenever a new version is available.

I'm going to add a warning for this to the next DWC beta as well.

@martin7404 How did you wire up the super pinda to your toolboard? Are you happy with it? I am considering switching from BL-Touch to superpinda as the BLTouch is often acting up on me and feels not as reliable as magnetic probes

Your workflow is a little... weird.

Have you seen this?
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe#Section_Calibrate_the_Z_probe_trigger_height

So here’s my workflow:
M561 turn off mesh compensation

That's fine.

M208 S1 Z-3

This isn't recommended. I understand what you want to do, you want to be able to get close to the bed, but changing the axis minimum probably isn't the best way to go. Either use G92 Z10 to tell the firmware you're higher than you actually are, or use M564 S0 to go beyond the set limits temporarily.

Baby step to the bed until it touches.

This isn't having the effect you want. You should be using the actual jog buttons or G1 Z movements to get it to touch the bed. The baby stepping is shifting the nozzle but not updating the actual position of the Z. This is why you continue to still have a weird offset.

G92 Z0

Once you've used the jog buttons to touch the bed, then yes use G92 Z0

M500 to save.

This does nothing in this context. M500 doesn't work like it does on 8-bit boards. In RRF it is used to save certain calculated or measured values to a text file that get read back at boot time when the M501 command is sent. It's mainly used to save delta calibration values or PID heater tuning results. It can be used to save a G31 trigger height, but not in the context you're using it here.

See: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M500_Store_parameters

G1 Z5

Yup, that's fine.

G30 S-1

Yup that's fine.

Repeat four times and average the result; then add to G31 in config.g

That's also correct except for the baby stepping.

When I probe before a print at temp, I do one G30 in the middle of the bed.
G29.

Also correct.

Once you have a proper G31 value for your probe I think you'll have a lot less problems.

Post your config.g and your homing files for good measure.

@TheLightSpeed said in Heightmap.csv way in the air?:

HERE ARE MY HOMING FILES homeall.g homez.g

Your homez is setup to use an endstop switch rather than the probe. The homeall is setup correctly for using the probe, but you should change the positioning move before the G30 to position the probe at the center of the bed.

If you had homed the Z axis using homez it wouldn't have known where Z0 was, it would only have the estimate based on the end stop position.

So before running G29, the Z axis must be homed with the probe using G30 at the center of the bed for best results.

@TheLightSpeed said in PWM thermostatic Fan; Reduced speed:

......................... Can I maintain the thermostatic functions and reduce the amount of the fan speed? For example have it at 50% after 49°c ?

Yes you can do that. My hot end fan is configured like this M106 P1 S255 L125 H1 T60:140 C"Hot End Fan";

The "T60:140" means that it will be off below 60 degC, ramping up to full speed at 140 degC. The "L125" means that it will never run less than half speed. The net result is that the fan is completely off when the hot end temperature is below 60 degC, at 60 degrees C it will start at 50% speed ramping up to full speed at 140 deg C and above.

Obviously you'll need to play around with those parameters to find values that suit your application.

HTH

@dc42 I do David thank you!

@TheLightSpeed said in PWM 24v fans?:

I think o fried it by having the end stops pinned wrong. I didn’t think to check them and just put them on like the MKS board had them. So I just pinned them correctly. Is there anything else like that? That will fry the board?

This shouldn't fry the board. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/How_to_destroy_your_Duet_2#Section_Methods_that_probably_won_t_destroy_your_Duet

Short the endstop supply voltage pin to ground. This is a particular favourite of Arduino/RAMPS users, because on those boards it is very easily achieved by plugging in the 3-pin endstop connector the wrong way round. Doing so when using NC endstop switches will short 5V to ground, which is almost guaranteed to fry the 5V regulator on the Arduino. But we thought of that. First, we use polarised Molex-style connectors - although you can subvert that quite easily by plugging un-polarised Dupont-style receptacles into them (you'll need to throw away the polarised mating connectors that we supply with Duets). Second, we changed the pinout, so that the common case of reversing the connector has no effect when a simple microswitch (the most common type of endstop switch) is used. You can get around that by pretending that the only endstop connectors you have are the ones left over from when you were using RAMPS, and you 'forgot' to re-pin them. Buit third, we used a voltage regulator chip that tolerates short-circuits. We even added a circuit to ensure that the heaters are turned off if you short the +3.3v supply (the supply provided on the endstop connectors) to ground.

Ian

There's a delta related bug in 2.03. Try the latest 2.04 RC instead.

really? Man I have been fighting this thing for a week and theirs glitch? Yeah it's like it won't use the mesh leveling. Thank you

@Micha you can buy it direct from the Duet website I believe. The website should have a list of suppliers.

Posted by: @alecksonj001

Hi
I have a custom Ender 3 with a Y Splitter for dual extrusion. I'd love to be able to write custom gcode for it, but I can't for the life of me find what the gcode is for next tool. Cura has separate start and end custom gcode scripts for each extruder, so you obviously can edit those individually. In lieu of that, I need to be able to write the code using things like "current tool" "inactive tool" etc.

Thanks!

Hi.

I started using PrusaSlicer about 3 hours ago. I usually used Cura. I have an Ender 5 also with Y-splitter & dual extruders.

I'm battling in Cura to get a dual colour square to have an acceptable look. It looks terrible, to say the least.

So going from Cure to Prusa, is a completely different ball game ... something I am busy discovering.

Did you manage to get your machine with the Y-splitter to work? I will really appreciate it if you can help me with your/sample gcode to get my printer going again. I tried but it only did a small print of something that looks like a very narrow strip and then said it is finish with the print.

Thank you so long. Will really appreciate your help.
(Images below are two different prints.)

IMG_20201128_143948[1].jpg