The 3D Potter guys would probably enjoy free advertising (not affiliated with them, but I know they use duet+expansion).

Their stuff is definitely on the weird end of the spectrum, but I'm curious to see what else is posted here.

@tletourneau

A Hypercube is just one specific printer design that uses the CoreXY kinematics/belt layout. There are many others such as:
-Voron
-V-King
-D-Bot
-V-Core
-RailCore II
-Hypercube Evolution
-Many other lesser known printers

@bricoletout
Just wanted to make sure you know about this printer: https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus

It checks all of your boxes and is ready to go!

I want one

Your only option, that won't cause issues with your thermocouple readings is to put an inline thermocouple connector.

These connectors can be purchased from Omega Engineering here:
Miniature Size Thermocouple Connectors

Make sure to select type K, with the IEC color code.

I would put the splice pretty close to the extruder, that way you can run the extension cable the whole way and have the connector accessible if you ever need to work on the hotend.

You can find thermocouple extension wire here:
Thermocouple Extension Wire
Or Here:
Stranded K-type Thermocouple Wire AWG 24 with Kapton Insulation Extension 5 yard

I know it's probably more than you were planning on spending, but if you want to use a thermocouple, then it's kinda your only option unfortunately.

-Tim

@skivvy I would change that to, a restaurant with a menu of the length of a Bible that has the 8 items you want, but they are all scattered amongst it's many pages, and it takes a while to get your order, and you don't know if those are actually the right items, and if they aren't cooked right, you have to go back to the restaurant supply company to fix it rather than have the sheff fix it...

Reprapfirmware is like a buffet that's cooked perfectly has everything you need to customize right in front of you.

I just thought I would bring/post about a connector I found that Molex makes that I think would work well for hotend connections, as well as elsewhere on my printer. What does everyone prefer to use for their hotend heater thermistor, and fan connections out by the extruder? I know the Voron guys like the microfit 3.0, and Lulzbot had the normal dupont style pins, some people use JST on daughter boards.

Molex makes some crimpable wire to wire connectors that are kinda cool (available on digikey). They call them ditto connectors since there is only one kind of crimp and one kind of housing (no male and female, but insertion is one way). Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-sWcdPl7Dc

They make 2.5mm pitch connectors, so pretty compact for what they are: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/0368770004/WM10902-ND/5114214?itemSeq=354314114

Any thoughts? Is there any connector that is ideal that I just haven't heard about?

Thanks in advance.
-Tim

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_M581_-_External_Triggers_and_Building_a_Control_Panel

Then you could point that to a gcode file with M25 in it.

@dc42 Glad we caught it before the stable release, thanks man! Excellent work as always

@dc42 It shows the CNC view in DWC, I can try sending an M450 to confirm.

I also have no M451 in my config, and there is an M453.

Is there any other prerequisite to read this style gcode?

@timothyz

Tom's gcode looks the same as mine, starts off with a G0 or G1, then on the following lines has the individual X, Y or both X and Y on one line. Reprap firmware seems to be ignoring all lines without the G1 or G0 preceding it. See below:

G90
G21
G0X145.682Y79.693Z12.700
G1Z-1.270F203.2
Y91.765F508.0
X146.122
Y79.693
X145.682
X144.094Y78.105
Y93.352

Now, even in CNC mode this is not getting parsed properly, @dc42 Would you be able to take a look at this, or should I put it this in as an issue on github? I can confirm this is not parsed on both 3.3 and 3.4RC2.

Thanks,
Tim

I think this is isolated to the specific software we used, other programs have been just fine that put in normal G-Code commands the beginning of every line.

Everything about my machine works, I was just seeing if carbide create got better results. The path looks good but the gcode it pukes out doesn't look great to reprap firmware.

Again, everything works when the gcode is normal but with gcode missing the command (G1) it ignores the line even in cnc mode.

It may be that the code generated is missing even more traits required for rrf to read it. Not sure.

I will copy and paste some test gcode a little later

@tomartig

I am having the exact same issue with similar gcode on firmware version 3.3. It only does the z commands and no xy commands.

Also running in cnc mode seemingly successfully, but it is not playing nicely here.

Anyone have any ideas?

@zapta
That's understandable, with this really being focused to the hotend, I guess I would be able to connect a fan outputs to another fan outputs if I wired them to two pin connectors. Looking at the size of everything, there really isn't much difference so I'll probably buy some more microfit 3.0 connectors (they are basically the same size as nanofit, weirdly enough).

I just thought I would bring/post about a connector I found that Molex makes that I think would work well for hotend connections, as well as elsewhere on my printer. What does everyone prefer to use for their hotend heater thermistor, and fan connections out by the extruder? I know the Voron guys like the microfit 3.0, and Lulzbot had the normal dupont style pins, some people use JST on daughter boards.

Molex makes some crimpable wire to wire connectors that are kinda cool (available on digikey). They call them ditto connectors since there is only one kind of crimp and one kind of housing (no male and female, but insertion is one way). Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-sWcdPl7Dc

They make 2.5mm pitch connectors, so pretty compact for what they are: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/0368770004/WM10902-ND/5114214?itemSeq=354314114

Any thoughts? Is there any connector that is ideal that I just haven't heard about?

Thanks in advance.
-Tim

@bricoletout
Just wanted to make sure you know about this printer: https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus

It checks all of your boxes and is ready to go!

I want one

@Phaedrux I am running 3.1.1 and it seems to be working very well (I was having issues with the much older version of DWC).

Do you think that the newer version of DWC could cause this even with no client connected?

-Tim

@dc42 That's the thing, I did not intentionally reset the board before sending the m122, that was how it was when I walked up to the machine in the morning. The power up was immediately following the reset if I read the timing correctly.

This is one of those silly Fusion3 F400s, I will disconnect the paneldue and reset button connected to the expansion connector and try again, also will see if I can scrounge up a brand new sd card.

Anything else I can do to debug? Doesn't M111 need a PC connected via usb to receive the debug messages?

-Tim