Posts made by Vlad

@dc42 Thanks David, and nope, I actually connected everything exactly according to that instruction. red and black went to always on fan, and PWM wire went to "-" lead of Fan0.... very weird, I will speak to fan manufacturer, its definitely possible that they messed some wiring up. really nice fan that is, really want to make it work with all my duet setups.

@phaedrux its a custom production fan sample, they are sending me a spec sheet tonight. If the function is as you described, then what would be the point of a separate PWM input if it simply feeds 24V into the drive? This means it would function exactly as a 2wire PWM solution, which AFAIK is not the case. I have read some articles about the differences yesterday and they should be functioning differently. I have never had a fan fail in such a weird way honestly, but then I have to admit that this board does not support 3-4 wire fans, so the board could be causing that. Which is why I decided to ask on this forum basically.

Hi guys, I just burned a pretty expensive prototype fan by following these instructions: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans

on connecting a 3-4 wire fans.

This article suggests to hook up PWM wire to FAN0 negative terminal, which immediately fried my fan IC. Glad I have another one as a backup, however I am not connecting it to this board unless I now know for sure what is going on over there. Basically a 24V setup for fans will output 24V PWM signal on that aforementioned terminal, while the fan PWM circuitry may expect a 5V PWM there, which is why it fried. Well, that's just my guess, since its a negative terminal anyways, and I am not super knowledgeable in such electronics.

Since I have no idea what voltage fans PWM ports usually expect as signal and google doesn't help with that, I am hoping someone can shed some light in this regard. And if the answer is 5V, maybe that article should get an update so more people don't burn their fans following those instructions. Maybe @dc42 can help?

Thanks in advance!

Cool, I believe the amp is already included in that product that I have purchased. So just a comparator circuit then. Do you think a MOS module or an SSR could do a trick there (could be stupid question tho )? Ideally I will want to only do that procedure once a year or less, will see how sturdy my frame is once I get the machine up and running. I decided to first try to use hall effect sensors for homing and manual leveling procedure and try to store those leveling coordinates int he firmware. hall effect are very precize sensors and theoretically I shouldn't "need" to reprobe it at all. But that all is only a theory that requires testing still

@dc42 oh wait... strain gauge? for some reason I always thought you had piezo sensor in your effector. Actually strain gauge seems like a better solution out of the box. Is there anything special I will need to do firmware-wise to implement that? It is so tiny that I am sure I can find a way to install it on my effector where it would slightly bend from the presure. Soooo, I ordered this just now Too bad I won't be able to get it before this weekend already, but my effector is still in limbo anyways, due to unchosen ball joint type. Had a meeting with IGUS and they sent me their samples for those and for rails, both of which are unfortunately pretty bad in terms of tolerances and play. Hard to believe that it is so hard to find a decent tight lightweight ball joints on a market... oh well! I wonder what it would take to use small steel ball bearings and injection-mold a shell with PTFE or POM or something similar, and do it with proper tolerances. If you don't mind me asking, what made you choose strain gauge over the piezo type sensor?

Also what kind of electronics do I need along with strain gauge in order for it to work with DUET? Is there any wiki page to help me with that?

@dc42 Thanks a lot for your replies David and for your advice about probe options. Really appreciate that! Smart effector is definitely a solid all around solution that is well priced, however, unfortunately it can not fit some of my requirements, so I can't go that route (COG and weight of magballs being among my reasons). And there is nothing wrong in liking your own product haha, after all this is why you made it!

You just gave me what seems like a great idea - piezos on a bed - definitely worth a try! My bed so far is hard-connected to a frame without a way to adjust it at all. I have done it to get rid of all possible vibrations. Going to buy some piezos now for playing for sure. I guess 3pcs will be sufficient.

In the last day of playing with stallguard, I did realize, while it is fun, it should not be a primary solution imo. It worked great on my old printer as a replacement of broken X homing mechanism tho. It also works great for where most of us don't have endstops. For example on the other side of X or Y axis etc. Stall detection for extruder is also very interesting, I am going to play with programming it later. However I soon realized that it is still much better to install my hall effect sensors for endstops and it is not that much harder to do, and will be a much better solution for fast homing, as they trigger about 8mm away from the sensor.

Just purchased this set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z8SXFPQ/ hopefully it will be compatible

As a side question, does my Duet2wifi have stallguard2 or the first iteration StallGuard?

@dc42 yeah, I meant basically amazon-ebay USA market. I shop on amazon 99% of the time, unless I have to shop elsewhere due to superfast free shipping, free returns and other goodies for customers. Very good observation about the belt length, will definitely keep in mind. I could go with 0.9 steppers for delta axis in order to somehow improve potential accuracy of stall detection, but I believe 0.9 steppers are not very good at very high speeds, so I stocked up on some 1.8 MOONS ones. My bed will be 4mm glass on top of copper plate, and I really don't have space on my custom effector even for BLtouch sensor. Need something very tiny. Already researched piezo types, but they seem to have a lot of issues at aggressive accelerations and speeds. Was trying to find your IR sensor for testing, but none of our distributors carry it anymore. Ideally I would want to level the bed with the nozzle itself, but have not yet found a solution to do that reliably. I am also not looking for any kind of mesh probing for my delta, it is factory produced and rigid as tank. I am only needing the probe to basically probe 3 points to calibrate a plane of surface. Also since I am using a glass surface, I am not worried about mesh much, glass is super flat always.

Thank you guys for the reply. I actually have already installed the A3144 model and as I said, very easily fed the voltage from 5V pin and it worked beautifully and easily, and this sensor is the most available on a market too, at least here in USA. I am also playing with stallguard, but so far it is not very reliable on my test machine, but still will try it on my upcoming delta. Very interesting concept if I could use that for nozzle leveling there.

Ok, before everybody rushes to help me, I just want to document that I ended up going back to A3144 sensor and just feeding it from a spare 5V pin on a board, going to connect the capacitor to it as @dc42 suggested, even though I am clueless why I am doing that lol. Reference page for A3144 which I eventually went for: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/8/hall-effect-end-stops/2

@dc42 do you guys have those buffers for sale or possibly the whole endstop? Can't make my 3.3V hall sensor work either. Dimly lit LED is what I get. Triggered at 0V, not triggered feeds 1.62V into the board pin.

ok guys, for the record. It does trigger an led when connected directly (led is not bright tho), however it does not trigger the board to activate the stop at all. I tested with a mm and the voltage reads 0 when magnet is there, and 2.60ish when not. Seems reasonable to me, but the board won't read it still.

Ok, I guess nobody knows anything Well, I received a new ones today and I am going to try them with my existing DUET setup on old printer. @dc42 if you could give me a hint about whether I need a tiny capacitor with these or not, I would appreciate. I don't understand electrical aspect that deep

Hi guys, has anyone had any success using these particular hall sensors (3144) on duet as endstops? I have read @dc42 comments about that, but still not very clear on this. Apparently 3144 need 5V fed to it and wiring won't be as clean, but I already purchased them in easy way from amazon, and they are very accessible on a market, while hall sensors that support 3.3V are rare and are not available on public market platforms at all. I am basically looking for an advice, whether I should try to go a head with what I have or should I reorder those 3.3V models instead and pay $8 just for shipping of those from a small online merchant here in USA? And also it will involve waiting for almost a week, and I am very spoiled by amazon actually

If the advice will be for keeping existing sensors and trying to set them up, can anyone please shed some light on wiring of those, as I was not able to find any documentation regarding that.

And in case the advice will be for reordering, I am thinking of these: https://sensing.honeywell.com/SS49E-linear-and-angle-sensor-ics , should these be ok?

Thanks in advance!

@deckingman assuming that someone is dumb to a level of using a letter instead of number is disrespectful and an insult. It is probably your reality of life to make such idiotic mistakes, and you totally consider that possible with other people, for me your assumption was quite autistic. So you got what you totally deserved. Blame yourself. Look at the keyboard where o and 0 is located. I am not programming a firmware on this forum, I am messaging, don't act like a complete idiot, for god's sake. I hate such "men". Really like a little spoiled girl, what a shame. It's super idiotic to even assume that I could use "o". Period. But what could I expect from a guy who had time to have 4300 posts anyways lol.

@deckingman omg don't be a dummy please, you really think I don't know the difference. I type fast here, and it's a simple typo. How stupid you think people here are that I would run into "o" problem. Gosh...

If I ever need to hear some top stupid advice, i now know who to ask. Thanks! (but facepalm).

P.S: when you are at level of thinking people confuse O with 0, then probably you can not possibly notice that Interpolation simply is not active regardless of firmware command. So is it possible that your interpolation "works" because you have no idea how to test that? And now you speak for "thousands" of others apparently.

@dc42 nope, logging is disabled already. I tried it but it didn't give any useful info. If I can edit that file myself, I will try that as well. I would increase the delay significantly, to 500 or so and do 5 retries. I will give it a try if I can. M122 last time reported absolutely nothing, like it wasn't even retried once.

Ok just checked, I can't. I guess it needs to be compiled into .bin then, I have no way to do that.

@sdavi Hi I am not a coder nor did this board say I will need to be a coder to make it not throw errors everywhere and that I have to redo the whole firmware myself. So, no, I have no idea how to add debug lines. Nor do I have time to mess with this myself on $200 product to be honest. It does seem to fail before it even retries, and you seem to have looked much more into my issue than @dc42 did actually. Answering your second message, it fails absolutely randomly and it is usually always in the section of small tubes etc, where it needs to process a lot of commands per second. As said earlier, I reformatted the SD card into 2048 sector size and will try to see if that could help. I am running out of options pretty much to be honest.

@droftarts just tested with X16 Io and X16 I1. No, interpolation is officially not working on these boards at any setting. @dc42 have you guys tested that?

@mrehorstdmd good idea actually, I will have a look at those. I can get them directly from MOONS' for reasonable price usually, ship to my office in China and then get them to me here in California pretty quick.

@dc42 I am not worried about wasting space on modern cards. This is why all my cards were formatted in 32 for speed and performance. This, however, may be taking much more on board memory to read and therefore could possibly be causing my problem with freezing. And i ran tests on SD card while printer is stuck, SD card is fully accessible from web client and from paneldue also. Super weird. Dropping microstepping further down to 64 now too (it was 128 before). This was tested on two duet controllers so far with the same problem persisting on both. I have about 30 more people in my group with duets, I am gonna send my factory file to them to see if issue is easy to replicate on their machines.

@dc42 said in Cannot read file, error code 1 (5 times in 2 days):

That's because it has already done the retries and they all failed.

How long is the pause between retries? Is it in milliseconds? Because it does look as instant cancellation to me when it prints. And there seems to be no way to track down if retries actually took place.