Fixing the blobs isnt the heat… just because it works doesnt mean its the right thing to do.

What is your pressure advance settings, does exactly 100mm of filament come out when you extrude with hotend detached?

You really need to get a caliper, they can be found at harbor freight for cheap.

Can't reproduce this. That is to say, setting jerk to 2400 from1200 for X and Y doesn't exhibit the alarmingly fast behaviour I saw yesterday. Maybe I did something stupid like type 24000 instead of 2400?

Ref step errors - they are in fact a product of the problems I'm having with pressure advance. That is to say, M122 didn't show any step errors when changing XY jerk to 2400 from 1200 but after I set pressure advance to 0.4, I get step errors if I do M122 while it is in process of making a (jerky) circular move.

a nice learning curve, thanks for your patients,

I had a spare 12v, heating filament, so i have instead installed that.

Thanks for the info, I would soon upgrade to 24v,

This CASE is SOLVED

I managed to get the X axis stopping where necessary, so i'd like to mark this thread as SOLVED

This was achieved by printing out a endstop holder for these mechanical switches, so now i have a good enough set up get the homing and placement of the print where actually want it.

Thanks Prusa's, Delta's and CoreXYs

Hmmm….

Ok, then I need some advice then. I thought I had the nozzle height adjustment thing down pat but apparently I don't.
My first printer, (a Prusa clone) maintained the same nozzle height after homing.
I always understood that manually setting the nozzle height using a piece of paper folded in two as a feeler gauge, between the nozzle and bed, then adjusting the bed height screws to get a perfect distance for printing. So when the print started, this manually adjusted height determined the print height, and the layer height was determined by settings.

If I am understanding you correctly, I should adjust the nozzle height to be touching the bed completely, and the gcode will raise the nozzle, (or in my case, lower the bed) per the layer height I have entered in the slicer?
I always assumed that layer height = extrusion rate + print speed.

Educate me.

BTW....I just ordered your Mini IR height sensor from Filastruder. I read that it works well with a glass bed, which is what I use.
I am hoping it will take the aggravation out of adjusting the bed level.

@Whitewold:

Make sure your slicer is configured for relative extrusion and not absolute…. M83 in your slicer start gcode if it doesnt have a check box like S3D does.... if its Cura then you will need to set M82 for absolute mode in config.g instead of M83

Once done change your steps back to 800 and retest then do the formula again

I did the extrusion test using the Duet console, but I'm glad you mentioned slicers, because I don't know how to set up a slicer for the Duet. I've been using Cura for my Marlin/MKS set up so far and it has been going well. Is there a set of instructions for using Cura in conjunction with the DuetWiFi?

I actually tried printing a test cube with the Duet console and it started printing a baseless, hollow test cube, and smeared filament all over the area, like a fire hose.

@MiR:

You may also want to check extrusion speed in the web interface of duet, before extruding hit the button for lowest extrusion speed or the one with 2nd lowest speed.

As you describe it you perhaps were using a too high extrusion speed.

I believe the extrusion speed was set to the default 100%. I'm not sure if that means it represents my max extrusion setting or not.

So I checked my steps per mm in a different way, with a pencil and calipers.

I placed a ruler on the edge of one of my carriage rollers at all three towers and marked it's position with a pencil along the frame of the printer in the homed position.

Then I took all the carriages down 300mm and marked the position again on the same roller against the frame.

I took a 300mm (12") caliper and lined it up against the marks and I'd say it was accurate with ~0.5mm or less.

It does appear that all of my stepper motors should be almost exactly 80 steps per mm as calculated (if they are off then it's only 0.17mm or less per 100mm - which is acceptable).

Thank you for answer. Its 1.4 A, i set E1260 in config. Temperature 62c max. Works perfect.
Updated pdf for all models: https://mega.nz/#!6swniQST!Jvuf2JNx0zH2qOJ-liGBWmgOQruX6w5P232ZYdHOu4w

@MiR:

I am also thinking of attaching two led's to the front and back of my effector and trying to visualize the movements with a long exposure with my camera.

I have no clue if this would work or not, but it'd make a great time lapse video.

edit

Actually, it looks like attaching the right light source to the extruder and running your printer faster under the right time lapse exposure setting would produce something like in the link below: http://www.wasproject.it/w/en/light-extruder-by-gianluca-pugliese/

@FrankNPrinter:

never heard of MAC changing via firmware change, Are you sure on that? I know you can spoof a MAC but did not think you could actually change them. all but last octet is for manufacturer ID if i recall correctly, thought that was hard coded like serialized CPU's?

The way the MAC address is calculated changes with 1.19, with earlier versions this was in config.g but now it is done automatically so it will likely not match what you already have in your config, and your router will assign it a new IP address since it thinks it is a different device. See here for details.

Cheers,
Ben.

@CaLviNx:

@dc42:

I am planning to implement bed levelling using multiple Z motors very soon, so there may be no need to change to a single Z motor. To use this facility you will need to connect each Z motor to a different driver output. Not a problem if your E1 motor output is spare.

David

You have just thrown up a question with this statement, if you remember I asked about motor connectors in relation to driver numbers in another thread which you clarified.

In relation to my FT-5 build it would be nice to use the coming feature to level the bed, as the FT-5 uses dual Y motors, would it be feasible im this case to transfer the twin Y motors to the Duets twin Z output connectors and then put the x2 independent Z motors into the Y & E1 connectors and remap everything to allow me to implement the upcoming levelling feature ?

Yes you can swap the Y and Z motor connectors over using M584 X0 Y2 Z1 E3:4. Or with the Z motors connected separately to the Y and E1 outputs, M584 X0 Y2 Z1:4 E3.

Regarding your bltouch issues, unless you are deploying it when it is too low so that it triggers immediately, I suspect it is faulty. But I've never used a bltouch so perhaps there is some other explanation.

@dc42:

Ok, so you need to raise the BLT more between probing. The Duet homing files let you define the homing sequence yourself, so this is easily done. To raise it after Z homing, just put a G1 Zxxx command after the G30 commands in homez.g and homeall.g, where xxx is a suitable height.

To ensure that the head moves upwards sufficiently between probing when running G29 or G31, increase the H (dive height) parameter in the M558 command.

Ah, fantastic. Thanks very much for your help!

Thanks for the response. I will update my firmware and see if that fixes things.

Ha! Forgive my weak attempt at humor.
Yes, I knew full well you were the designer for the Duet. As well as a huge contributor to 3D Printing in general.
And if you don't own an island yet, I hope you get it! 🙂

And regarding the Pilot license. Excellent! I have always wanted one. As a matter of fact, as I am experiencing my scheduled mid-life crisis, I have seriously considered jumping off the cliff and getting my Helicopter license and become a pilot for the oil industry. I live on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico and there is a steady flow of helicopters carrying oil rig workers miles out into the Gulf.
I think it would be cool to do and it would probably impress the girls, I think.

I can give you my settings now Ian. I might be able to try a bit of tuning using the method above at some point.
Machine 1 Corexy, titan extruder, pancake 20mm stepper, mounted direct on the x-carriage, genuine e3d volcano, 0.4mm nozzle 36w heater (by resistance), I use for ABS, PLA, PETG, for flexibles I haven't settled on a value is too finely balanced.

M92 X200 Y200 Z200 ; Set axis steps/mm M92 E440:440 ; Set extruder steps/mm M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E700 ; Set motor currents (mA)extruder current just enough will click not strip M201 X2000 Y2000 Z200 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2) M203 X15000 Y15000 Z3000 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min) M566 X600 Y600 Z30 E20 ; jerk values M572 D0 S0.0125 ; pressure advance

Machine 2 Delta with flex3drive, 32mm motor via 90cm cable drive, genuine e3d v6, 0.4mm nozzle, 30w heater (claimed), ABS, PLA.

M92 X200 Y200 Z200 ; Set axis steps/mm M92 E3800:3800 ; Set extruder steps per mm (flex3drive) M906 X1100 Y1100 Z1100 E800:800 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA) and increase idle current to 60% M201 X3000 Y3000 Z200 E200 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2) M203 X15000 Y15000 Z15000 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min) M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E100 ;jerk values M572 D0 S0.025 ;set extruder pressure advance

I use a slightly higher pressure advance value here, although the extruder performs as a direct drive, there is slight latency in the drive cable.

I say claimed with the v6 heater, as the genuine volcano kit I got a few days ago from e3d has a "30w" heater with a resistance of 6.2ohms so only 26W in reality at 12v.

Hope this helps.

Hi Dc, I've now put your code in and its working fine, providing (sorry) that the tools are at ambient or less than a particular value. Because I'm doing a lot of experimental prints then often Tool1 is cooling from the previous print after a cancel. With the code above it seems to still take a while until M116 thinks its stable, what's the logic it uses?

Thank you

Good question (G1 Z5), I've never modified the pause file and notice it says 2mm in the notes. The pause file was from someone else's files with a similar delta. I'll drop that to 2mm.