@briskspirit I'd simply go with minimum and maximum speed that I'd ever use on the printer. It's not so much about speed as pressure management in extruder. I ran the script at 60-120 first and 30-200 later once basic kinks were ironed out. The speed difference should be enough to cause significant pressure differences.
Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
@randomfactoid said in IR probe+Duetwifi - only digital mode:
I've been using my IR probe quite successfully, but recently, i'd say out of nowhere, it only started working in digital mode (=2 flashes = no slow down when close to bed). It doesn't actually affect how my corexy's bed gets leveled, however i'd prefer the potential increased accuracy with the slow down. Is there anything I could do/troubleshoot ? I have 3 wires connected as suggested in the manual and, strangely, it did work recently and now it isn't.
Check your M558 command in config. You should be using P1 in that command. Most other choices will enable the pullup resistor on the Z probe input, which will cause the sensor to start up in digital mode.
The other possibility is that something is causing your Duet to startup very slowly, so that the M558 command isn't executed until the IR sensor has initialised. If you have any commands in config.g that are likely to take along time to execute, put the M558 command earlier in config,g than those other commands.
The firmware has to treat accelerations and speeds on CoreXY machines differently from Cartesian.
On a Cartesian printer, the X and Y motions are independent, so X and Y speed limits and accelerations are applied independently. This means that the speed and acceleration that the firmware will allow for a diagonal move is sqrt(2) times the speed for a pure X or Y move (if the X and Y speed limits ar3e the same, and similarly for the accelerations).
On a CoreXY printer, pure X and Y moves are done by both motors contributing equally. But pure diagonal moves are done by just one motor. So whereas on a Cartesian printer, you can execute diagonal moves with greater acceleration and speed than X or Y moves, on a CoreXY the reverse is true.
You could argue that for a pure diagonal move, the speed and acceleration limits should be one quarter of the limits for pure X and Y moves: one half because one motor is doing all the work, and another half because that motor is moving both the X carriage and the Y gantry. But the current firmware doesn't go that far, it only takes account of how much of the total work each motor is doing.
@peirof said in Pressure in advance newbie guide:
I'm having problems with my last impressions ... the summary clogs.
The problems I'm having with PLA, i have not tried other materials.
The problem is always similar, begins to print well, and when it takes about 300 mm of extruded material begins to stop extruding little by little, losing steps, until about 100 mm later, stop extrude ...
When I clean the jam, and extrude with the DWC, it does it without problems, I have come to extrude with DWC about 500 mm at 5 mm / sec, and fine.> .........................................
As far as I remember, the only thing I have modified is that I have added PRESSURE IN ADVANCE (M572 D0 S0.08), I think it's a low value, but I'm not sure ... I'm not sure either if it's the cause of the clogs.> .........................................
So, like the OP of the other thread that you posted in, you have a problem with clogs in the hot end, which you say is a clone of an E3D V6. You also say that you don't get clogs when extruding continuously - only when printing.
The usual cause of these "clogs" is that when you do retraction (as is necessary), some molten filament is pulled back into the heat break area where it solidifies and causes the "clog". You can even see that on the pictures you've posted.
If that is what happens then enabling pressure advance might make it worse, especially if you don't reduce retraction as well, or if you use too much pressure compensation, because you will be pulling more filament back up into the heat break area.
Like the OP of the other thread, you have a fundamental problem with the hot end. That is the root cause that needs to be fixed - messing around with pressure advance isn't going to help and may make the problem appear worse.
Possible solutions: -
A) Buy a genuine E3D V6 - clones may have a thicker and thus less effective heat break.
B) If you don't plan to print over about 240 deg C. buy the lite version. This has a PTFE liner running right through the heat sink including the heat break.
C) Try a more powerful fan blowing over the heat sink.
Once you fixed the fundamental problem with the hot end, then try enabling pressure advance but use the minimum amount needed and also reduce retraction accordingly.
I think those changes may have done the trick.
I'm printing an enclosure for my 7 inch Duet display and it's been printing for 25 to 30 minutes and looks pretty good.
I may have to adjust the offset a bit but so far so good.
Thanks for your help.
@blt3dp said in Manually find endstop corrections on a delta?:
how would I do this? I though the auto calibration required a z probe.
Do read the wiki, but short conceptual answer: If no Z probe is configured, running G29 will cause the web interface to pop open a window that guides you through manually probing each point via clicking z up or down and dragging a piece of paper.
In fact, it is really easier to "just do it" than to read the wiki...
As @Phaedrux says, the max speed should be set for the maximum travel speed (e.g. I use 350mm/sec for non-print moves but usually print at around 90mm/sec). Personally, I calculated the maximum attainable speed based on the maximum acceleration that the motors will give me for the mass and bed size and set that in config.g. So it's nice and high and won't limit what I do with my slicer.
You could add a step between 7 and 8 - set maximum accelerations for moves rather than axes - see M204 https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/GCode#Section_M204_Set_printing_and_travel_accelerations. This can actually be useful on a per-print basis rather than being in config.g though.
Thanks for the info, this provides a great starting point once I get the Duet in (still need to order it).
Right now the printer is still too busy to take it out, but like you, I'm trying to stay close to the original Cetus initially, although I foresee switching to an E3D Titan Aero at a later stage as well, along with 0.9deg steppers, and a heated bed.
Once again, thanks!
@mhackney It's been a very long time since I last played around with those tool change macros but as @garyd9 mentioned above, I suspect the "T0" command within that macro might trigger tpre0.g which might be why it gets upset. As that tpost0.g macro only gets run when T0 is selected, there should be no need to specify T0 again from within that macro.
Oh okay so my slicer start code will still work? Cause while it's not my only printer (I have quite a few) but this is my really high quality printer so I will update it for sure just gonna have to wait until the Spring Break (I'm a teacher full time and 3d printer is my part time/hobby) so if anything goes wrong I can have time to fix it immediately.
Thanks Phaedrux, so I'll try the starting gcode I've posted as a temporary measure until I upgrade firmware.
It's possible to do that using the old 3-, 4- and 5-point bed compensation support (G30 commands in bed.g), however that feature is deprecated and likely to be removed in a future firmware version. The recommended alternative is to use a mesh of just 4 points, one near each corner of the bed. On prusa-style printers with beds moving in the Y axis, this has the advantage that it will compensate for Y axis twist too.
Looks like your connection to Duet3D was lost, please wait while we try to reconnect.