Ok nevermind, i overlooked the fact that my starting script had a M82 in it. I changed that and it works.
The top one is a variation between Pressure advance 0 and 0.2, the second is a taller version for the PA of 0 to 0.5 and lastly the bottom one is between a PA of 0 and 1.
I´m using a super short "bowden" of around 120 mm, see picture.
BMG clone, genuine capricorn tube and e3d Volcano copper block, 0.4mm nozzle. Printing Tiertime ABS filament @260°C and 70°C Chamber temperature.
My Jerk is set to X500/Y600/E200. Acceleration is set to X1000/Y1000/E1000.
Looking at the results i need a PA of 0.55. Can this be? It seems a little excessive for a more or less direct drive extruder. Is it because of the volcano and the ABS filament?
Also, in the long segment the centers seem to bulge up, even at the part that had a maximum of 0.5 PA which is close to the needed value. I never get a consistent extrusion throughout like the other pictures posted.
What is the culprit of that? What do i need to change to have the extrusion in the fast segment even?
I have checked nonlinear extrusion but have not configured it since my extrusion stays consistently at 100% up until 7mm/s, at 8mm/s it is at 98.8% and at 10mm/s it is at 96.8%. If i configured nonlinear extrusion, the square fitment nature would mess up my extrusion below 7mm/s. It may need more variables.
@DigitalVision Thanks for the script, it works perfectly!
Some of the figures in that table are misleading, and some are plain wrong:
Thermistor resolution "Up to 0.16°C" doesn't mention that for a wide-range thermistor, the resolution is likely to drop to 10C or even worse towards the extremes of the range. This makes it difficult or impossible for the firmware to know whether the thermistor is present before turning the heater on.
Thermistor accuracy "1°C without calibration" is only likely to be true over a very limited temperature range, e.g. close to 25C (or whatever temperature the nominal resistance is specified at)
RTD resolution "1.2C" is completely wrong, for the Duet3D PT100 daughter board it is 0.03125°C
Thermocouple resolution "0.5C" is likewise wrong, for the Duet3D thermocouple daughter board it is 0.0078125°C
The response time of any type of temperature sensor is completely dependent on the packaging
Thermistors are for budget 3D printers. If you want to know your hot end temperature accurately, use a PT100, or a thermocouple if you need to measure very high temperatures. A PT1000 may also be a reasonable option if you don;t mind the resolution being a little lower than for a PT100. See our advice at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/temperature_sensors.
@singhm29 said in Delta running a duet maestro wants to sound like a train?:
Probably a good idea to update to 2.04RC1
One way to test if the magnets are the problem is to change the probe type to P0 for manual probing where you are presented with a jogging window to manually lower the nozzle until it touches the bed. For the 3 points needed for the mechanical auto leveling it wouldn't be too tedious to test. That at least takes the probe out of the equation.
Do you have a straight edge or a square that you could use to eye ball that dip to see if it's actually flat or not? 0.3mm isn't big enough to see just looking at the plate, but it's enough that there should be a visible gap.
@agniusm said in Duet maestro and weirdness on start gcode:
G1 Y0.0 F5000 ; go outside print area
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 X70.0 E9 F1000 ; intro line
G1 X140 E12.5 F1000 ; intro line
I say again, it looks like you're missing G90 and G91 commands here. G1 Y0 makes no sense in the context of a relative move. But the next movements are to extrude a prime like, which would require a relative move.
@clytle374 said in Diagonal rod length on delta printer issues.:
... error of the horizontal arm should have very small influence in the Z axis, that is nearly solely dependent on the vertical arm.
Hmmm... makes sense.
Just grasping at straws: Looking at the map of the mesh, it certainly looks like a periodic error on one tower. I'm basing this on the "ridges" or "waves" of yellow.
Shaft bent? On a motor or an idler?
And, just another "oh by the way", since you are on a path to replace things: 9mm belts have about half the stretch of 6mm belts. Very worth it on larger printers.
A tiny bit harder to source; they are available. I just replaced the belts and idlers on a larg-ish delta (1.5 meter tall) after two years of heavy printing. Probably not absolutely necessary, nonetheless made me feel better. The point being: I found sources for the 9mm parts much more easily last month than I did two or three years ago when I built that printer.
I had fought this problem on my CoreXY and in my case it was misaligned X Y linear rod bearings which created vibration (it's a custom contraption that I overtightened by mistake so it didn't run smooth). Plus, the motors were resonating and the vibration of the axis added to the resonance. I ended up going for 0.9deg motors and smoother rods and now it's 99% gone.
On the topic of belt tension, I observed that no matter how tight you make them, the plastic parts on the axes (and possibly the belt) will give in until equilibrium is reached. Yeah, it might seem a bit tighter at first, but try checking again in a year.
The stock is Marlin.
I've looking old printed parts and I see that the vertical lines are from the start of the times, so I see the lines recently (maybe due new printing speeds) but are not new in my printer (do not start with Duet).
I bought new 16t pulleys and idlers for X and Y and maybe I need to change from V wheels to linear guides to completly avoid the vertical lines... or maybe print slowly is enough xD
I solved the problem with the bed heater (commented in my last message), due a parameter in the configuration.
Thank you for your help to all of you, I will keep pushing and fighting!
@adamfilip said in Probe offsets and Bed Min and Max:
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X280 Y350 Z300 S0 ; Set axis maxima
Question: If the nozzle is at 0,0 is it directly at the corner of the bed? Or is the nozzle off the printable area when the end stops are triggered? If so, you can correct for this by have the minima values be negative. This moves the 0,0 point to be the corner of the printable area and should help your grid make some more sense.
Firmware retraction can be adjusted on the fly, so it's useful during the tuning phase. There are a few other situations where firmware retraction is required, like mixing hotends to be able to retract all of the extruders at once. Other than that there isn't much difference than setting the slicer to do it. the slicer can also control some wipe and coast features which may be beneficial, though pressure advance is usually enough to make those unnecessary. Simplify3D can be configured to use firmware retraction, a quick google should find the steps.
Can you post a .3mf from PrusaSlicer so we can see what the entire printer setup and print settings are?
@57buick Yes. Any subsequent M106 with an "S" parameter will override any previous "S" value. BUT, if you want to limit the maximum fan speed (because say it's a bit too powerful), you can do that by using the "X" parameter in your config.g file. So if you use M106 .....X100, then any M106 "S" command that exceeds 100 will be rounded down to that value.
Edit. You can also set a minimum pwm value https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M106_Fan_On
Is there any particular reason why you want the fan to start as soon as the Duet boots? It is more usual to use S0 in config.g so that it doesn't initially run.
If there are no missed steps, then no higher current is needed. I use 24V 750mA for my towers, also 0.9 deg steppers.
On travel moves, when there is no z-hop some contact may be normal between the part and the nozzle.
I myself use Cura with machine settings plugin (from store ...free) set the machine settings => firmware retraction to ON, set the retraction amount to something minimal in cura, like 0.01mm (otherwise it does not send firmware retract commands either) and set my zhop and retraction amount with the firmware itself.
@deckingman Thanks a lot!
I´ll dig there to find info. I thought about the system like your second gantry but I don´t know anything about mapping alpha motors in the duet.
I need to finish first the mod for the printer and after I will try to find in your blog how to map motors.
I´ll take your word and will ask you if I stuck in the process