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    Yeyy First print

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    • tecnoundefined
      tecno @jens55
      last edited by

      @jens55

      This BMG has been acting badly, now with NO pressure applied filament is not running smoothly.

      Sounds like the gear is wobbling so filament is is type of jerking. Will contact Bondtech tomorrow.

      jay_s_ukundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • jay_s_ukundefined
        jay_s_uk @tecno
        last edited by

        @tecno that of you don't have the correct thermistor settings in your config so the temperature you think you're at isn't the temperature you have

        Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is

        tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • tecnoundefined
          tecno @jay_s_uk
          last edited by

          @jay_s_uk

          Good morning from a very rainy day 😞

          DSC_0730.JPG

          Have been trying to find info on this thermistor, maybe I got it with E3DV6 but shure.

          Cheers
          Bengt

          jay_s_ukundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • jay_s_ukundefined
            jay_s_uk @tecno
            last edited by

            @tecno don't think thats an E3D one as they use specific colours for their wires

            Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is

            tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • tecnoundefined
              tecno @jay_s_uk
              last edited by

              @jay_s_uk

              Correct, my bad memory 😉
              It is HT-NTC100K
              So do I have to make any changes to my config?

              jay_s_ukundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • jay_s_ukundefined
                jay_s_uk @tecno
                last edited by

                @tecno what do you have for the M308 line for the hotend?

                Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is

                tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • tecnoundefined
                  tecno @jay_s_uk
                  last edited by

                  @jay_s_uk

                  ; Heaters
                  M308 S0 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp0
                  M950 H0 C"out1" T0 ; create bed heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 0
                  M307 H0 R0.211 C620.5 D1.28 S1.00 V24.1 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
                  M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
                  M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C

                  M308 S1 P"121.temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp1
                  M950 H1 C"121.out0" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on out2 and map it to sensor 1
                  M307 H1 B0 R3.567 C155.0 D5.77 S1.00 V24.3 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit B0 S1.00
                  M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • PaulHewundefined
                    PaulHew
                    last edited by

                    @tecno You could try changing your B value to 3950
                    From what I have read, that particular type of probe is not very reliable.

                    I tend to use E3D thermistors and at a push TLabs.

                    P.

                    RailCore II - Duet Mini + 1LC, Voron V0.1 - Duet Mini
                    Voron 2.4 disassembled..... Waiting for the RailCore Mini....

                    tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • tecnoundefined
                      tecno @PaulHew
                      last edited by

                      @paulhew

                      Hi Paul,
                      I am all ears for good tips.
                      E3D have 3 different Semitec 104GT + PT100 + PT1000

                      Assuming PT100 is a good choice?

                      droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • droftartsundefined
                        droftarts administrators @tecno
                        last edited by

                        @tecno PT100 needs a daughterboard. PT1000 is a good choice though. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Temperature_sensors

                        Ian

                        Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                        tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • tecnoundefined
                          tecno @droftarts
                          last edited by

                          @droftarts

                          Hello Ian,

                          Then PT1000 it is, ordering now from Kent i Denmark.

                          droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • droftartsundefined
                            droftarts administrators @tecno
                            last edited by droftarts

                            @tecno To be honest, a proper E3D thermistor, with the correct settings, is fine too. Thermistors are repeatable, not accurate, good resolution. PT1000 are repeatable, accurate, slightly lower resolution. Either way you'll need to work out the reported temperature that works for you filament (speed is also a factor), and even your current HT-NTC100K should be fine. Try printing a temperature tower. Something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076

                            Ian

                            Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • tecnoundefined
                              tecno
                              last edited by

                              Managed to make my first print yesterday evening by replacing nozzle to brass on Dragon. The suppied nozzle is not OK.

                              DSC_0731.JPG

                              Good tool to have.

                              tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                              • tecnoundefined
                                tecno @tecno
                                last edited by

                                On purpose !!!!

                                56c7e481-3751-4f5b-9b60-ab20b524f583-image.png

                                Just to play a little hardboll no G29 S1 = Print went south west as suspected 😉

                                The picture in message is acceptable with loaded heightmap

                                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • tecnoundefined
                                  tecno
                                  last edited by

                                  Last parts printed for the mechanical upgrade on my Chiron, Y axis linear guides.

                                  DSC_0733.JPG

                                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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