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    Yeyy First print

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    • jay_s_ukundefined
      jay_s_uk @tecno
      last edited by

      @tecno don't think thats an E3D one as they use specific colours for their wires

      Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is

      tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • tecnoundefined
        tecno @jay_s_uk
        last edited by

        @jay_s_uk

        Correct, my bad memory 😉
        It is HT-NTC100K
        So do I have to make any changes to my config?

        jay_s_ukundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • jay_s_ukundefined
          jay_s_uk @tecno
          last edited by

          @tecno what do you have for the M308 line for the hotend?

          Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is

          tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • tecnoundefined
            tecno @jay_s_uk
            last edited by

            @jay_s_uk

            ; Heaters
            M308 S0 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp0
            M950 H0 C"out1" T0 ; create bed heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 0
            M307 H0 R0.211 C620.5 D1.28 S1.00 V24.1 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
            M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
            M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C

            M308 S1 P"121.temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp1
            M950 H1 C"121.out0" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on out2 and map it to sensor 1
            M307 H1 B0 R3.567 C155.0 D5.77 S1.00 V24.3 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit B0 S1.00
            M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • PaulHewundefined
              PaulHew
              last edited by

              @tecno You could try changing your B value to 3950
              From what I have read, that particular type of probe is not very reliable.

              I tend to use E3D thermistors and at a push TLabs.

              P.

              RailCore II - Duet Mini + 1LC, Voron V0.1 - Duet Mini
              Voron 2.4 disassembled..... Waiting for the RailCore Mini....

              tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • tecnoundefined
                tecno @PaulHew
                last edited by

                @paulhew

                Hi Paul,
                I am all ears for good tips.
                E3D have 3 different Semitec 104GT + PT100 + PT1000

                Assuming PT100 is a good choice?

                droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • droftartsundefined
                  droftarts administrators @tecno
                  last edited by

                  @tecno PT100 needs a daughterboard. PT1000 is a good choice though. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Temperature_sensors

                  Ian

                  Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                  tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • tecnoundefined
                    tecno @droftarts
                    last edited by

                    @droftarts

                    Hello Ian,

                    Then PT1000 it is, ordering now from Kent i Denmark.

                    droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • droftartsundefined
                      droftarts administrators @tecno
                      last edited by droftarts

                      @tecno To be honest, a proper E3D thermistor, with the correct settings, is fine too. Thermistors are repeatable, not accurate, good resolution. PT1000 are repeatable, accurate, slightly lower resolution. Either way you'll need to work out the reported temperature that works for you filament (speed is also a factor), and even your current HT-NTC100K should be fine. Try printing a temperature tower. Something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076

                      Ian

                      Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                      • tecnoundefined
                        tecno
                        last edited by

                        Managed to make my first print yesterday evening by replacing nozzle to brass on Dragon. The suppied nozzle is not OK.

                        DSC_0731.JPG

                        Good tool to have.

                        tecnoundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                        • tecnoundefined
                          tecno @tecno
                          last edited by

                          On purpose !!!!

                          56c7e481-3751-4f5b-9b60-ab20b524f583-image.png

                          Just to play a little hardboll no G29 S1 = Print went south west as suspected 😉

                          The picture in message is acceptable with loaded heightmap

                          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • tecnoundefined
                            tecno
                            last edited by

                            Last parts printed for the mechanical upgrade on my Chiron, Y axis linear guides.

                            DSC_0733.JPG

                            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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