Ender 3 nothing working right
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@waggonburner3 said in Ender 3 nothing working right:
@dc42 no I did not test them I will test them tonight after I post my settings.
Also remember that 2-wire switch endstops use the 2 outer pins of the endstop connector on the Duet, which is not the same as on some other controller boards.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42 yep that's how I have them hooked up.
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Almost nothing on the Ender matches Duet wiring. I had to juggle wires everywhere on mine. Creality doesn't even follow industry standards when they exist
Let me add that mine prints amazingly well now
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I reinstalled everything hardware and software all endstops working everything moving in the right direction. Now trying to get the heater 1 to tune and not fault out everytime.
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Glad you're getting everything sorted out.
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On my 24V 40W heater I had to reduce max PWM to 90% otherwise it will overshoot and fail the auto pid tune.
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@wyvern thank you
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Thank you to everyone for the help I'm getting decent prints now I'll probably hooking up the bltouch in a day or so hope u can handle that by my self but I'm not holding my breath. Lol
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Just a note, don't know if it was my network or what, but yesterday I could not connect the printer, after an hour of farting around I ran M552 on the panel due- the IP address changed after a month of flawless communication.
So keep that in mind if that happens to you.
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@wyvern said in Ender 3 nothing working right:
Just a note, don't know if it was my network or what, but yesterday I could not connect the printer, after an hour of farting around I ran M552 on the panel due- the IP address changed after a month of flawless communication.
So keep that in mind if that happens to you.
The IP address is allocated by the router. Most routers will allow you to set an IP address reservation so that the router always assigns the same IP address to a particular device. The router identifies devices from their MAC addresses. The MAC address of a Duet WiFi should never change unless you replace the WiFi module.
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I think it is amazing that you have installed an Duet wifi in a printer that cost almost the same as the duet
Looking foward to see then end result. 
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@martin1454 said in Ender 3 nothing working right:
I think it is amazing that you have installed an Duet wifi in a printer that cost almost the same as the duet
Looking foward to see then end result. My Maestro Ender 3 works fantastic. I saw it as a cheap way to acquire the basic bits, and build what I wanted. I probably could have sourced the same parts from China for less, but this was a lot easier and faster.
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@3dmntbighker said in Ender 3 nothing working right:
@martin1454 said in Ender 3 nothing working right:
I think it is amazing that you have installed an Duet wifi in a printer that cost almost the same as the duet
Looking foward to see then end result. My Maestro Ender 3 works fantastic. I saw it as a cheap way to acquire the basic bits, and build what I wanted. I probably could have sourced the same parts from China for less, but this was a lot easier and faster.
Yes, the Maestro is better matched to the Ender 3 from a pricing perspective, also the use of 24V power and lower current motors on the Ender 3 is a good match for the Maestro. A WiFi derivative of the Maestro (which would cost a little less to manufacture than the Ethernet version) might be an even better match, provided that the WiFi antenna can be kept out of the enclosure metalwork.
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I love my Ender 3 with the Duet Wifi...it works great and now greatly out performs my Taz 6 printer in both speed and quality. Granted...my ender 3 is far from stock using a geared printable extruder first was using a Greg's wade bowden variant and now one called the Pitan, linear guide for the bed, polycarbonate v-slot wheels on the x and z axis as well as dual z rods and stepper motors.
The thing is so reliable now, just set and go.
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There are really only 4 tiers of 3D printers.
Super low end- they just barely run and cost under $200, avoid.
Clone/enthusiast grade- usually do a good job with a little tweaking and sourcing of better parts- it's possible to get high end results with enough patience. $250-500
High end enthusiast- usually setup with all the goodies, think ultimaker- out of the box run like a expert adjusted/modified clone. $1000-3000
Commercial grade- huge machines- huge price tag, made for business unless you just really like 3D printing and have a huge wallet $5000+++
I have seen parts come out of my $270 Qidi Xone-2 come out as good as a ultimaker, the little guy has a mic6 build plate, 24V,32 bit board, all steel construction and 10 mm Z rods. 150X150X150 build size and weighs about 35lbs!
My Folgertech FT-5 has about $900 now, I have yet to install some of the upgrades, but I am just now getting the Qidi quality- hoping to surpass it after the bed/z axis upgrades.
IMHO it's worth putting a duet Wifi in a cheaper clone, part of the fun is making a clone/kit work as good or better than a $2000 printer, as they say built not bought.
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I've taken the liberty of marking this as solved, as the original title doesn't reflect the recent posts.
