@rschlachter said in Resurrecting a printer from 4+ years ago:

Given the new bed size and taller z axis, I know I can't just plug it in and start printing. So should I start completely fresh? Or try to see where I'm at and modify/upgrade?

I'd probably just start again, first by updating the firmware to the latest, as there have been a lot of developments in the last 4 years. Start as if starting again for the first time: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/How_to_guides/Getting_connected/Getting_connected_to_your_Duet
Create a new configuration set of files using the configuration tool:

Is RRF still the way to go? Or is Klipper the new standard? I'm not afraid to switch if it makes sense.

You're on the Duet/RRF forum, so people are likely to have strong opinions about that! Switching to Klipper will require a Raspberry Pi or similar. Duet boards can run Klipper, but we (Duet3D) don't provide support. Performance- and feature-wise there's little to choose between them.

I should be able to grab some of the files and settings from the card, right? I did everything through the web interface previously. No PanelDue.

You can use your old config, assuming you're on RRF 2.x, to inform your new config. But I'd generate a new config set, rather than try and bash the old one into shape.

Anything else I should know before I jump back in?

We're here for you!

Ian

@droftarts thank you for the reply and sorry for the late reply.

After sending the message I continued tinkering and searching for clues of why that happened, and I've discovered what was the problem:

By using the BLV mgn profile on Cura, the special option "Set Relative Extrusion" is disabled, meaning that when I was applying the "set relative extrusion" command inside the gcode, the acual extrusion values inside the print gcode were still absolute and exponentially told the machine to extrude more and more filament, more than it could do.

By removing the relative extrusion command, the printer worked like a charm.
After that, I've tried using other slicers like Orca, and it managed to convert to relative extrusion with no problem, with also a lot more of options for me to customize. So I'll probably stick to it from now on.

That was genuinely my bad to not have thought of that before, tomorrow I'll set this post to resolved for the posterity.

You can find some hardware source here: https://github.com/Duet3D/Duet-2-Hardware

@norder

Probe Offsets are correct Margin about 15mm, because the limitations added by the printhead dimensions

It was the M parameter or better the P parameter i lack off, so many thanks
i suggested the M one are beginning at zero.
at least i was excepting a gap at end like 270/10.

solved then

@dc42
@rogerpodacter

I see theres confusion about the examples, as i mentioned this just examples (picked from the duet doku)
I can now share acutal accelerometer records.
Printer Type: CoreXY

Record no shaping:
IS_1.png

Based on what i learned here MZV should suits best in relation to curves
IS_2.png
No Shape with MZV curve:
IS_3.png
Shaped with MZV
IS_4.png
it looks for me pretty well shaped, except a bit the area arround 58Hz-78Hz
So my question that is now remain after i understand most of the whole thing (i guess so, if not correct me in my statements)
Is there any tweaking point on this?

After experimenting a bit i tried modified ZVDDD, if im right this one is lacking because it have a longer frequenzy and give me
almost the same result as MZV?
IS_5.png

excuse me again for not beeing clearly enough that i used examples

Edit: Is the MZV Shaper is automatically right on 40Hz, because its the highest peak and the first curve of the shaper, shapes this peak best?

@breed No need for a heated bed I am printing ceramics

@fcwilt

going to the release version of 3.3 seems to have fixed it.
Thank you very much indeed!!

@gost101 That will be fine as long as you don't draw too much current for the 5 Volt supply or the connector you are using.

@Stephen6309 said in z probe offest:

@way2lo2 Not sure, but I do know the firmware won't go below Z0, if you have your M208 set Z minimum to 0.

That's right. So on the first layer the most you can baby step down by is the first layer height.

For best results the probe trigger height must be accurate. Set it at the same point you use for homing. And use that same point for setting Z0 before generating a heightmap or after doing tilt correction.

If you do need to baby step down consistently you can use the amount used to modify the G31 trigger height to make it permanent.

Setting the M208 Z minima to -0.5 would let you go a bit lower, but use that with caution.

@JDigglyWiggly I did it out of sympathy for a dad with 3 kids under 10.

You can also take a look at my Duet 2 Wifi case >> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1802496
You have a specific requirement let me know
Cheers

There's also this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4133271

Oh ok. Thank you for clearing that up for me. I completely missed that. I will give that a try tonight.

Thanks,

Andy

It's a little hard to see on the pics, but your problem description and testing performed indicates the issue is with the SD card slot. Warranty exchange approved. Please contact Filastruder and include a link to this thread as authorization.

There's been a few mentions of node red, maybe you can find something helpful here.

https://forum.duet3d.com/search?term=node red&in=titlesposts&matchWords=all&sortBy=relevance&sortDirection=desc&showAs=posts

@Phaedrux, thanks for checking.

This is not supported unfortunately. Your options are to use a separate wireless network or to use ad hoc mode where the duet creates a wifi network that you connect to.

Generally it's not a wise idea to connect a 3d printer to a large open network anyway.

Your schematic should work for low PWM frequencies, your 'screaming', whatever that might be, is probably caused by a wiring error. Are you sure you connected the GND's of the 12V supply and the uC board together?

Other than that the circuit is suboptimal; it takes R3 a long time to charge the gate of M1 which increases dissipation. Replacing R1/R2/R3/Q1 with something like a TC4427 would be a better solution.

Regarding PWMming TEC's: you can do that as long as you keep the PWM frequency above 1kHz or so. If you PWM with a low frequency there is too much stress on the thermocouple joints due to them thermally expanding and contracting many times a second.

Wouldn't it be easier to just use a motor driver (module) which is essentially an h-bridge? Saves you the trouble of dealing with components.