@jay_s_uk Hi,
Thanks for the confirmation on the roto toolboard, concerning the Fly-SHT36 Max V3, I never heard of it before will also have a look.
@jay_s_uk Hi,
Thanks for the confirmation on the roto toolboard, concerning the Fly-SHT36 Max V3, I never heard of it before will also have a look.
Hello,
The SKR1.4 and yeah I read about the possibility of running RRF on it but as I'm already running the 6HC on my Ender 5 Plus and that I'm quite happy with it, I said to myself, go for it
@droftarts Hi, thanks for the detailed responses.
Concerning the boards, I'm currently running 2 mini 5+, one on my Ender 5+ and 1 on my Sidewinder; (I do have the 6hc in her box waiting for a future project ( Voron or RatRig, haven't made a choice yet and currently need to figure out space in the garage as no more available space in the house) so will be 2-pin KK connector.
I've received the Roto tool head and I see the cable your talking about, I was asking about the cable as a just in case I might be short on the the cable length; I also ordered the Duet 3 Scanning Probe Z probe, am I right to think that I can plug it directly to the Roto tool head and not used the board that comes with it?
If all goes well with the Artillery, the Ender will follow suit; I'm maybe bitting more than I can chew but for me it's an exciting project!!
@jay_s_uk Hi,
Thanks for the confirmation on the roto toolboard, concerning the Fly-SHT36 Max V3, I never heard of it before will also have a look.
@Phaedrux Hi,
Thanks for the links, I did came accros the can connection page but did not do a deep dive on in.
So there's no "incompatibility issues" by using the roto toolboard instead of the 1LC, that's good to know; my aim is to have only one cable going back to the board and thought that the roto would be more "future proof" than the 1LC. I'll be using the Mini 5+ to start on my sidewinder X1 to begin with and if all good with do the same with the Mini 5+ on my Ender 5+.
Hi all,
I have a couple of questions as I've been using duet boards for some time now but mainly with Klipper and I'm thinking to go back to the original RRF as I would like to use CAN and it seems to be simpler to implement if using RRF.
1st of all is that "simpler" statement true ?
2- In the idea of getting this implemented, what toolhead would you recommend using with a Hemera hotend, the standard one not the xs; the 1LC v1.2? or is the latest Roto toolhead an option ?
3- I wasn't able to find the CAN bus cable in the website, is the cable available for purchase or I need to build it myself (I know the cables are different between the 6hc and the mini 5+) ?
4- In Klipper for can you need to flash both board, is that also the case in RRF or this is automatically done when you setup your firmware with the configurator tool?
5- When replacing Klipper with RRF, how should I go about that process, meaning can I just use the configurator tool with the latest firmware or do I need to do start with an older version of the RRF and do incremental upgrades till I get to the latest version, this might be a silly question but I prefer to look silly and not brick my boards than look stupid after bricking them!
This are the questions I currently have, some may come later following the answers I get, in any case many thanks for your answers and help.
@Falcounet @Herve_Smith
Hi, Thanks for taking the time to reply, actually I ended up answering my question earlier a couple of hours ago and have been finishing the printer configuration. the cable in question if anyone else looks fo the info in the future is the filament sensor.
Concerning the RPI, I'll be running the printer with Klipper not with original firmware hence why the RPI is requiered in my case.
I now got everything working as expected including the filament sensor so all well and good; again appreciate your time replying, especially that it was a dumb prep error on my side when I starting labelling and unpluging the cables from the SKR.
Anyone using a Duet 3 mini with an Artillery Sidewinder that could point in me in the right direction please?
Thanks
Hi all,
After several years using a Duet 3 6HC in my ender 5 Plus, I've replaced the Duet 3 6HC with a duet 3 mini 5+ and I'm saving the Duet 3 6HC for a future project. In the past I posted here my project of replacing an SKR 1.4 turbo with the Duet3 6HC, after long time hesitating and with the duet 3 mini giving great results on the Ender 5+, I decided to pull the gun en replace the SKR with the mini.
That being said, I've starting cabling the new board to the artillery, I believe that I'm mostly done but I'm having some issues identifying some of the cables; I have an adapter on a white cable that you can see at the bottom right of the image.
Can someone please confirm what the white cable is and where should it be plugged in also(I completely forgot to label it ), is any one also using a BL touch or a super pinda with the sidewinder x1 ?
Also I believe I can power up a raspberry pi from one of the 5V connectors if so what would be the best pins to use in this case??
FYI, I have no screen connected.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll retune my slicer settings and see what comes out and use a temp tower to nail the ebst printing temps for the filament being used. I'm also considering moving from Simplify3D to either PrusaSlicer or SuperSlicer once I get the new settings nailed in.
May I ask you what your slicer settings are for the Hemera please? I've done 3 prints trying to nailed settings down but I still have some issues as you can see in the images below:
The first print was the calibration cube on the right then the one on the left and finally the benchy. I'm using Simplify3d and between the first and second cube I raised the temperature from 210 to 235 and disabled retraction so layer adhesion was better but needs to be improved.
If I compare the benchy to one of the one printed with the previous setup using the Microswiss Direct drive setup, I wasn't expecting the difference to be so huge, not sure why but I hoping that the changes required on the slicer would be minimal but I was complety wrong
Current setting after disabling retraction, the extrusion multiplier was raised from 0.90 to 0.95 and the extrusion witdth was changed form manual .0.40 to Auto, Coasting and Nozzle wipe are enable .
Layer height is set to 0.32
Any suggestions?
Thanks