Topics created by fotomas

@fotomas I think the UART connection is just for tuning, and can be disconnected once this is done. For actually triggering, the output is via the endstop connector, so can be connected to a toolboard.

It's interesting, for sure. It uses a digital amplifier, rather than an analog amplifier that other piezo implementations use. The standalone version is for other places you would normally use a piezo; behind the extruder mount, under the bed etc. You don't want to squash them too much!

Ian

After finding and adressing several issues I belive it is working fine now.

I have:
Lowered the jerk value for Z to 15
Let the bed soak properly before do bed mesh (temp 80 )
Replaced lost screw, one of three holding the hotend to the heatsink. This was hidden by the silicon sock on my Phaetus Rapido hotend.

I think the jerk value was the thing but the other two brought a fair amount of inconcistency too.

So i will end this thread/question here. Thank you for all the help and a little extra to Phaedrux.

@fotomas thanks for sharing it!

@jay_s_uk
Is it ok to connect to LED strip in parallel? Would it work and both behave the same, as a mirror image of eachother?

@chrishamm Thank you, it may be possible then, with some luck 🙂
I will do some experiments to see how far I get.

@fotomas Instead of sending G31 you can call await session.WaitForModelUpdate(); to make sure the object model is updated once. It is also a good idea to lock session.Model while you're dealing with it to avoid race conditions. The object model classes implement INotifyPropertyChanged and INotifyCollectionChanged allowing you to track changes where necessary.

@jay_s_uk Great tip, thank you. i will look into that.

Both that wiki and the GCode Dictionary explains thing with the term "Z leadscrews" which is correct in some hardware configurations. But it fooled me, maybe reading too quickly and not fully comprehending tings.

I propose a change to the use of "pivot point" or equivalent to make things a bit less likely to misunderstand.

@fotomas I think it's to do with the Z endstop. For some reason can't select 'Switch'.
Edit: ... and the I/O mapping page isn't showing up correctly. I think there's an incompatibility in the Fisher config template.

Ian

I think this may be a hard limit of the older V1 boards. Since it is a PanelDue with a separate board, you may be able to buy a V3 board to swap with, which would allow the use of the 3.x Paneldue firmware.

Or perhaps you could create a dummy heater for the bed to take up the position.

@fotomas said in Anyone tested ironing with transparent filament?:

@baenwort I am using PrusaSlicer that also has the monotonic pattern, for the top layer.

This is the bottom pattern and second layer so monotonic is not applicable.

It is the crossing between the spiral pattern in the bottom layer and the rect linear pattern in the second payer that causes the moiré effect.

As far as I know there is no way of choose the fillpattern of solid layers within a model other than 100% infill and a infill pattern, but those are 3D patterns in almost all cases...

The setting in Curate can be applied to Top and Bottom lines. It can also be applied to Ironing and or the actual top/bottom layer lines.

You'll need to go into Setting visibility and enable them but it may help.

Combined with setting a bottom layers thickness that causes the bottom several layers to be monotonic and the same pattern (doesn't need to be just concentric) you might improve things. It may also need you to set the top/bottom line direction manually so they go the same way for non concentric patterns. The default has each layer of the bottom going in a different direction.

Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a reply with a form to fill out.

@dc42 Any info on if it will be available as an upgrade?

@phaedrux
It takes somewhere around 3 seconds.
I execute the macros by clicking buttons in the DWC.

That's an interesting result. I don't understand why higher acceleration would solve it either. You've made the motor/stepper combo happy at least.

@fotomas Any luck with writing the macro? I would be interested. Thanks

Ok I will check that, thanks!

Ah yes, of course. That's was a common problem with the BLTouch which needs a heater pin unbound as well.

I have beed inspecting and inspecting and not seen anything indicating cracks or movement.

That seems to have got it up an running again. I have probably closed a crack somwhere.

If it stops workkng again I may let a friend of mine re-solder all componets with one of those soldering heat guns.

That may invalidate the warranty, I dont know but may be worth a try.

Inthink we can close this thread.

Thank you for all help!