Posts made by garyd9

@rjenkinsgb said in SE and "Revo" hotend?:

I believe the fan wiring is the same in the V3 as in the V2.

I'm using a v1.2, but I doubt it makes any difference.

The simplest work-around is use the regulator board & mount it at the effector.

Perhaps. The wiring for that would probably be fairly messy, but if it works, I guess that's all that matters. (I'm imagining the two fan wires coming out the underside of the SE, looping back up to a regulator board mounted on the topside of the SE, and two more wires hanging back down to the fan.)

Or, it might be easier to just design something that allows mounting a 30mm fan, even if it's at a slight angle (angled to blow slightly up.)

As for E3D possibly releasing a V6 length threaded sink: It's possible that it happens, but I'm not going to hold my breath waiting.

@dc42 said in SE and "Revo" hotend?:

@garyd9 the Revo isn't as long as the V6, so you will need to use a different print cooling fan duct and perhaps a smaller print cooling fan. Other than that, it should fit.

Digging into things, it appears there might be an incompatibility with "revo" heatsink fan and the smart effector. The revo fan is a 20mm x 10mm 5VDC fan, and the smart effector expects either 12v or 24v on that line (as it uses it to power the LEDs.)

What would happen if 5VDC was supplied to the smart effector HF+ line? I'd guess that it might cause a problem with the LED's, but would anything else bad happen?

As an alternative, E3D supplies some kind of 5V "regulator board" that I might be able to stick to the smart effector (depending on how big it is.) Or perhaps I could track down a 20mmx10mm 24VDC fan -- or print some kind of adapter to use the old 30mm 24VDC fan.

@jay_s_uk said in SE and "Revo" hotend?:

@garyd9 should do fine.
Uses an M12 thread so I don't see a reason it wouldn't

I agree, but I'm also paranoid. I can think of dozens of things that might go wrong.

That's why I was hoping that someone has direct knowledge, and now that the "revo" is out of beta testing, they'd be able to share that information.

I'm having a hard time getting clear (explicit) information, but I suspect that at least a couple people here have direct knowledge: Will the E3D "revo" micro heat sink fit properly in the Duet Smart Effector without modification?

Thanks
Gary

@phaedrux said in Duet 3 6HC Wifi?:

Something like this would make a good wifi to ethernet bridge

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WR802N-Wireless-Repeater-300Mbps/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Wireless+Travel+Router&qid=1639430960&sr=8-5

I'd try something else. I bought that product and used it with my Duet3. However, quite frequently, the duet would act as if it had no network connectivity at all and I'd have to reboot the duet to get it to "see" the bridge again.

When I bridge with a RaspPi instead, I have no problem whatsoever.

Perhaps I just got a flaky bridge, or perhaps there's some odd interaction between that bridge and the duet board. No idea, but the problem was annoying enough that if I buy another bridge, it won't be that device.

@ibash

Is that gcode file using variable height layers?

@gurusmi said in Smart Effector V3 an plastic nut:

the adapter i talked about ist that Thing. There i printed only the adapter named Dragon_Adapter_v3.stl, It is made for the full dragon hontend and also for the BMO. You will have to take off the BMO's groove adapter. One don't need the Groove Adapter any longer with this design.

I realize that this is an older post I'm replying to. However, this is the first I'm seeing it. As the author of that thing, I'm kind of amused that you are asking any questions about nuts. When I designed the adapter, I realized that there are two different threads being used for smart effectors, and to avoid any issues, I included a .STL file of a nut that works fine. I even mention it in the instructions:

After attaching the adapter to the hotend, simply put the M12 threads of the adapter through the 12mm hole in the smart effector, and attach the printed nut.

I'd suggest scaling the nut to 100.1% if printing at the original size doesn't work. The nut should be a tight fit (to prevent it loosening) but not impossible to thread on the adapter.

I actually prefer using the plastic printed nut to using a metal one for weight savings. I also feel that I can tweak the scaling of the nut in order to make a very tight fit on the threads (which avoids any issue of the nut loosening over time.)

I am happy to see remixes of the thing that add "arms" to prevent rotation of the hotend.

@dc42 said in PanelDue Firmware 3.3.0-rc2 released:

@mfs12 it might make more sense for me to change RRF to return the remaining time calculated from simulation, then PanelDue can use that directly.

If you're going to change RRF, wouldn't it be better to add a "simulatedTimeRemaining" instead of changing the definition of something already existing?

...just wondering if there are plans on updating PanelDue for RRF 3.3. (In particular, replacing the layer-based estimates with something else.)

@tecno I'm using the actual 24V E3D heatsink fan. The genuine E3D V6 shroud will work, but it might be loose and rattle.

I modeled something that (in my opinion) holds the 30mm fan to the dragon heat sink better. It's on this thingiverse thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4818787

@o_lampe said in [Delta] Rod spacing 20mm, Pros & Cons?:

That was achieved by an 8mm center => nozzle offset. The COG is better than the other approaches, who simply increased the rod spacing. And from the looks, I think, I can use 12mm 'b' distance, without any disadvantage. Then I'd have the same TES than the SmartEffector.

This is interesting, and while it works for the sherpa-based extruder, I don't think it would work for the currently released Orbiter extruders. For that, I think you'd have to increase the offset by another 8-10mm -- and/or some kind of adapter that raises and tilts the extruder.

One thing is for sure, however: regardless of what it takes to accomplish, the 3D printing community WILL figure it out.

@o_lampe said in [Delta] Rod spacing 20mm, Pros & Cons?:

@engikeneer said in [Delta] Rod spacing 20mm, Pros & Cons?:

the smaller your arm spacing (between parallel arms), the less stable your effector is

One user has made a spreadsheet to calculate that, but I can't find it back. @garyd9 IIRC it was you?
It also answered the question, if a wider effector has negative effects.

I want to put the DD extruder as close to the effector as possible to avoid it being top heavy.

(For some reason, the forum doesn't notify me whatsoever on mentioned, so I'm just now seeing this message...)

I didn't make a spreadsheet, per se, but used the theory posted in the reprap wiki to find the ratio's used by the smart effector, and carry that same ratio to any other arm spacing. It was in a "smart effector tool board" thread. I'll find it and edit this post...

Edit: it's around here (it's difficult to link to the single post on this forum): https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/19522/smart-effector-including-toolboard-capabilities/50

The relevant part is:

Also, there's more to arm spacing than just the gap between two parallels arms: there's also the gap between the "centers of articulation" (as described here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Delta_geometry#Effector_stability and referenced there as "b".) From that page, there's a theoretical relationship between effector stability, the arm spacing, and "b".

For reference, @dc42's smart effector has an arm spacing of 55mm, and a "b" of 12mm. Using the formula provided on that linked page (Tilt Effector Stability = (Arm space)²/b), the smart effector has a "TES" of ~252.08.

Assuming that theoretical work is accurate (or close to accurate), the effector from mrac1 has a much lower stability of ~134.94. (64^2 / 30.354)

From that, I started playing around in Fusion360 modeling arm spacing, and set thing up so that the "b" value is computed automatically based on the arm spacing in order to maintain a "TES" value of 252.08. (I just force the "b" value to be "( arm space )² / 252.08 mm.") Then I linked mrac1's excellent extruder model on top of the resulting sketch and kept adjusting the arm space until the arms (and arm movement) was completely clear of the lines connecting all 6 ball joints. (My choice of clearance was somewhat arbitrary. Some delta builds would need more space, and others would need less.)

@chrishamm said in Software bundle 3.3RC3 now available:

with my latest code I haven't got a single failed firmware update after approx 30 successive attempts.

You aren't superstitious, are you? If I were to say something similar about my own code, it would have most certainly failed on the 31st attempt.

@jens55 I don't have the tools for that. Even if I could find the right size drill bit in the US, I'd need a press to ensure a straight shot down, etc.

The thing that really annoys me about this is that it's NEVER happened to me with a brass, copper, or hardened steel nozzle. No.... the universe waited until I put an expensive nozzle on, and only let me play with it for a week, and then this happened.

@deckingman

So, my baking project had the following results:

The heat break is cleared, though it's lost all it's color. It went from a very pretty shiny copperish color to something that looks more grayish. I think the oven burned off all the simulated pretty copper color and left whatever metal is really there.

The nozzle I put in there is still clogged. I think it's a lost cause. I took a surprising sharp photo of the end of the nozzle (after baking and sitting in acetone for several minutes, followed by a brass wire brush) and the clog is pretty obvious. As best as I can tell, it's something metallic - perhaps a sliver of something from the Chinese manufacturing process, or some contaminant in the Hatchbox wood filament I was printing. After baking, I tried forcing it out from the nozzle tip end using 0.4mm stainless steel needle (which I confirmed does fit in the hole of a brand new 0.4mm E3D nozzle), but whatever is in there is stuck in there good and I can't get it out.

That's an expensive disappointment. It's one of the tungsten carbide nozzles from 3D Maker Engineering. They don't have any more in stock (and from experience, I know it can take them months to get more stock) so I ordered a different tungsten carbide nozzle from "Spool3D" in Canada (which turned out to cost nearly twice as much with shipping.)

Just to swing this back on topic: That nozzle clog was what started my experience in a clogged dragon heat break. The filament couldn't extrude, so it baked in the nozzle, hot block, and eventually in the lowest part of the heat break (below the cooling fins.)

At least a good oven cleaning fixed the heat break, if not the nozzle.

@deckingman said in How to unclog a Mosquito or Dragon hotend:

Ahh, that'll because you didn't buy the outrageously expensive sealing washers that Dyze use between the nozzle and the heat break. They probably make the nozzle deliberately short so that you have to buy the washers as well. https://dyzedesign.com/shop/ra/sealing-washers-kit/

Oddly, the page you linked to states:

Note: Every nozzle ordered comes with at least 2 sealing washers

Mine certainly didn't! No washers - just a fancy metal tin, lots of foam, and a nozzle plopped in the middle. Well, now I need to thank you. I was expecting to have to pay a 15% restocking fee to Matter Hackers to return the nozzle, but now that you've shown me that page, I can claim that I received a defective package and shouldn't have to pay a restocking fee.

Edit: I didn't need to argue - they had already approved the RMA.

Thank you!!
Gary

@deckingman -- I had earlier suggested trying a dyze tungsten carbide nozzle. After receiving mine, I'm going to take that suggestion back. It appears that the threads on their M6 nozzles (which are supposedly E3D compatible) are shorter by about 1mm than an actual E3D nozzle.

The result is that it's not possible to properly tighten the nozzle if you have a heat break that threads to a fixed depth inside the heater block (such as the dragon or mosquito.) The nozzle will tighten all the way up against the heater block without making good contact against the heat break -- which may result in filament leaking.

(With a true E3D block/break, this wouldn't be a problem: you could just thread the heat break further inside the block.)

Edit: I just started a "self clean" cycle on my oven with my clogged heat break (and nozzle) inside. I'll post the results in about 4 hours when it's done and cooled off. If that doesn't work, I might have to track down someone with a torch.

@deckingman said in How to unclog a Mosquito or Dragon hotend:

@garyd9 I'm not supposed to pass on this information so don't tell anyone, but to unclog a Mosquito style heat break, put it on an oven with a pyro cleaning cycle. The 500 Deg C or so will burn off any plastic leaving just some white ash. The reason why this can't be officially recommended is that toxic fumes could be given off so make sure the room is well ventilated. Oh, and don't put the entire hot end in the oven - just the heat break.

I can't. I'm in the US and our ovens don't heat up to temperatures with "C" in them. Our only choices are all F. F this, F that.

(Sorry for the hopefully obvious sarcasm. I've always wanted to respond to a forum post here with something like that.)

@deckingman If you're going to start testing more nozzles, throw in a tungsten carbide based one as well. They're pricey, but my first experience with one was good in terms of thermals. Same thermals as brass, and supposedly harder than the hardened steel nozzles.

The odd thing with those is that they aren't completely tungsten carbide. At least the ones manufactured by Dyze use a tungsten carbide nozzle tip "insert" with a steel outer body. (I wonder how that would impact your test.) The other two companies that sell them (3DMaker Engineering in the US and another company in Canada) don't reveal if they're using inserts or what.

As for the dragon heat break - in my case I ended up throwing the clogged one away and replacing it with a spare I had. While doing that, I also replaced the HEAVY copper heater block with a clone aluminum one. (On my delta, I don't need 300C temps, and only use the "standard" dragon, so I don't see any advantage to the extra weight.) One other benefit of the clone aluminum block is that I can use standard E3D sized silicon socks.

@jens55

It gets worse than that. Imagine you get some other kind of clog in the nozzle. That prevents the filament from feeding, and you "air print" for a few hours. That entire time, the filament in your nozzle and lower part of your heat break is cooking away...

(Yes, it's happened to me.)

This makes a good argument for installing a filament sensor that not only detects if the filament is present, but also checks that it's actually moving.