The Duet PCB was in the Kossel XL+ and powered normally using 24V on Vin.
If it happens again I will look at the various voltage rails for noise and ripple, and the ground PCB track to WIFI module. Fatten it up and decouple the WiFi module supply Pin maybe. There is a DNF on the schematic for a cap. Need to check what’s actually on the PCB.
I do have an Ethernet module to swap out if needs be. But the wifi module, in Normal operation, has never given me problems.
Thanks. We have had a number of instances where the WiFi module refuses to update due to failure to connect, and replacing the WiFi module has fixed it.
@JuJuDelta Thanks! I used 8mm thick dual layer PC that fits very nicely into the 8mm wide slots in the 4040 t-slot. It looks nice, but can make working on the machine a little troublesome. I have reworked a couple parts of the Z axis to make it easy to work on without removing any of the PC panels, and I never have to work on the XY mechanism, except the extruder carriage where I do a lot of experimenting with extruders and hot-ends. It's a pretty low maintenance machine, partially because I used very few plastic parts in the mechanism.
It wasn't nearly as costly as you might think. I built it using a lot of surplus parts and materials gathered over about a year, so it cost a little over $1k all-in. I did the limited amount of machining myself at the makerspace.
I find that setting the chamber to 50C allows me to print ABS without worrying about it splitting or warping. It's also not hot enough to cause problems for the motors or other mechanical parts. The XY motors are outside the chamber, but they didn't really have to be. The electronics are all in the top of the machine, away from the heat.
I used a pump like the one you described, and it died after maybe 100 hours. The plastic melted from friction where the excentric shaft moves the pump plate.
The motor is noisy, but the pump by itself is as well.
I'm not buying another...
I want to 3D print a 'CPAP like' blower, powered by a brushless R/C motor, just like you described. Will see, but i'm confident it should work.
If you are looking for the 1.75mm black PLA in the UK? Then you directly come at the Pongo Store which is a UK brand of 3D printing PLA filament. Our black filament is available in either 1.75mm in reasonable budgets.
I just changed my kossel XL belts from no-name to genuine gates 2gt powergrip. No real change in calibration or performance.
Some people have suggested with long belt runs, as found on large deltas, using 6mm gt2 belts that if steps/mm should 80 then use 80.5 as the pitch is only correct for a taught belt and we often don't tighten them enough. Maybe you need 79.5 (or whatever proportion of your default steps/mm).
Might be worth just printing 2 towers one twice the height of the other. Check the z height after printing and if one tower is proportionally larger than the other (rather then both being the same amount too high/low) then adjust your steps/mm on all 3 towers equally and calibrate again.
Do I use it - no, a quick clip with wirecutters after preheating to 130 deg C and then I probe.
This ensures filament on the end of the nozzle is soft, so I do a G30 before G32 just a few mm off bed centre to squash any residual filament flat before has chance to influence my probing accuracy, just in case I forgot to clip it. It also is below ooze temperature of practically all filaments so you don't leave blobs when probing, and it reduces the observed effect of thermal expansion of the hotend compared to probing cold and makes clipping or cleaning easier. You can probe cold but there are no benefits as above.