@t3p3tony @o_lampe - thanks - I've got a test rigged up with FEP hard tubing going into a mosquito liquid, and silicone tube over it just like this. I did add two oetiker clamps on them - I was surprised the FEP handled the pressure, but it seems fine, and no leaks with a 7 day continuous test time so far. If I firmly hold both sides I can still slowly slide the silicone over the inner tube, but I don't think it will come loose on its own.
Posts made by lael
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RE: Pictures of water-cooling
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RE: Compressed / Aquarium Air pump tubing
@o_lampe Thanks, that makes some sense. I'll get some valves ordered.
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RE: Compressed / Aquarium Air pump tubing
@deckingman pretty impressive, but surely you are getting a whole lot of ringing if you are attempting to print those speeds with that mass?
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RE: Compressed / Aquarium Air pump tubing
@cosmowave Right, so that's why I'm debating between 1mm wall thickness vs 2mm wall thickness.
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Compressed / Aquarium Air pump tubing
So, just about to experiment with using an aquarium pump / berd air pump (will test both options) for a new install. I'm wondering if anyone has used larger diameter (6-8mm) silicone tube for the run to the print head and then split into two cooling jets?
I'm thinking something like 8mm ID, and 10mm OD (IE 1mm wall) to keep the weight down, but wasn't sure if that would collapse too easily, or if the pressure from the pump would keep it from kinking. Then split to 6mm ID for each tusk. 8mm Area is ~50mm^2 and 2x6mm is ~28mm^2x2 / 56. So there might be a small pressure drop into the 6mm tube, before considering the split and the actual air jet outlet size that will add pressure.
Or... is a 2mm wall thickness actually a much better idea?
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RE: Pictures of water-cooling
@o_lampe that is very interesting. Not sure I would trust it... but interesting.
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RE: Pictures of water-cooling
@deckingman kind of like an oetiker / stepless ear clamp?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184506863154?hash=item2af5774e32:g:hU0AAOSwXCVcXil7 -
RE: Pictures of water-cooling
@nuramori Wow, not cheap. Are they good?
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RE: Pictures of water-cooling
@tech-raton I noticed it looks like you are running a silicone hose over some ptfe / similar tube into the quick disconnect fittings. Have you had any leakages or spills from the overlapping union?
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RE: Pictures of water-cooling
@nuramori Where did you source your self-sealing valves you've got installed on your liquid lines? They look like they would be quite helpful if you ever needed to do hotend maintenance etc.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@coseng yep, that's fair. I think most materials won't inhibit heat flow that much. CF and CF are insulators, but that just means they take a couple of mins to get to temp. Once they are at temp, they maintain it fine.
In terms of plates, I would think removable would make life easier, regardless of what that is, unless the plate is wider than the door
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@coseng A number of people are having great success with high temp garolite - NEMA G14. Good adhesion across a number of materials using PVP glue stick. It's relatively cheap for high temp work and is durable. The other option is Carbon Fibre, which visionminer popularised, just make sure the epoxy binders used are high temp rated as most CF is low temp rated epoxy. I haven't tried G14 yet, but G11 works wonders for Nylon and works well for PC. I haven't tried much ABS, but it was fine, I wouldn't say excellent. I can try some more in the near future for you if you are interested. G11 needs a surface sand with 180grit prior to use to get a dull surface, then a thin layer of PVP gluestick. G11 and G14 are both less stiff than CF plate.
https://www.mcmaster.com/3909N23/grade~g-14/ultra-high-temperature-impact-resistant-garolite-sheets/
https://www.mcmaster.com/8181K16/ - note temp rated to 190F / 90C, which is unlikely to suffice. However, is 3x the price.
Looking at the data, it looks like CF has 90-140,000psi flexural strength vs 45-60,000 for G14 and G11 is 42-58,000 by comparison. I would suggest 6mm / 1/4" if you go the garolite path.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@coseng Can't wait to see it completed! What reference points did you use for working out how to route and design the CoreXY IDEX?
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
Awesome project! I'm looking forward to seeing it all come together. I am curious, why did you choose to have the Z axis rails inside the chamber rather than putting a slit into the rear wall and running the cantilevered bed supports through the wall?
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RE: I present to you my Agony
@matt3o Which fysetc board did you end up going for?
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RE: Industrial 3D printer designed & made in NZ
@nz_andy Beautiful machine! Why did you elect to go for external stepper drivers and what difference has it made?
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RE: Tired of Mod, tweak, tune, repair, rinse, repeat...
Very neat! I'd be interested in seeing a list of all the things you 'fortified' or considered and made adjustments to in order to get the rigidity you now like.
A much easier request though - which 5020 fan are you using?
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RE: M18 vs M84 - same thing?
Thanks! I appreciate the macros! It's super helpful to have a framework to begin with. I'm working through them now, and then I'll create that mesh.g and test it properly... may have some more questions when I get there