Assuming you're using firmware retraction you can use G10 and G11 to retract.
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 to move the head to home. The faster you can do this, the better for oozing. Trigger your photo. Unretract. Then I would think that because it's absolute coordinates it should move to the next layer height and continue. Actually, if you insert your code AFTER the layer height move, and you have retract on layer change, it will already handle the retraction for you, and give you some clearance from the printed part for the travel move out of the way.
@timidtinkerer the USB socket is device only and USB dongles need to work with a USB host. The easiest way ti sot get a Ethernet-Wifi bridge. there are lots of them out there and infact thats how we made the old first generation Duets wireless, see this older blog post about using a TP-Link
@t3p3tony said in An extruder to turn a spool:
@deckingman nice write up. With 5 extrucers you are always coming up against stuff that most other people don't have to worry about (like changing the middle spool of 3!)
Thanks Tony. And exactly so. For most people changing a reel of filament is relatively quick and painless job. Changing the middle spool of 3 is one thing but when I swap from say a Diamond 3 colour to a Diamond 5 colour, I have to unload 3 spools, then load up 5 spools so it's a bit of major operation. Less painful than it used to be now though.....
@lordfus said in PanelDue connecting but not fully working:
Thank you that helped. It is now working.
Cool. Remember though that @dc42 hasn't approved those changes yet so when he releases his official firmware you should upgrade immediately, assuming he accepts the changes that is.
@snowcrash said in Laser PWM Module V1:
@keyz182 said in Laser PWM Module V1:
The projects is linked here on EasyEDA.
Excellent project & write-up, @keyz182! Thanks for sharing
Could you please provide more info (& pics) regarding the laser you're using with this module? (I might give it a go myself and haven't worked with lasers before so any pointer would be helpful).
This is the laser I'm using. It appears to be using the same control board as the Eleksmaker laser modules that are all over Aliexpress and similar.
They're pretty simple boards, they take GND, +12V and PWM. They have a button on them, when off, the laser is on, but in very low power, so good for lining up parts, focusing, and I generally leave the switch in this position when not in use. When on, the laser is in PWM mode where it's intensity is PWM controlled, from off up to full power.
If you're getting one, be sure to check that it's a PWM laser, and buy safety glasses! I also got some transparent safety acrylic that filters out the lasers wavelength which I'm going to try to either enclose, or somehow shield the laser with for extra safety.
And perhaps say a bit more about what you're using the laser for? is it for etching/cutting acrylic and the like or something totally different?
I only have a 2.5w module, so plenty of etching, but limited in cutting - card, paper, thin/light wood, very thin opaque acrylic (or a lot of passes - ~16 passes at 3mm/s on some 3mm thick stuff I tried yesterday). Also remember that this is a visible light wavelength laser, so if you can see through it, the laser will "see" through it too (unless, as mentioned above, it filters that particular wavelength).
I'm trying/failing to get into leather work (wallets, belts and the like), so hoping to use the laser to cut templates and etch logos/designs/etc.
Hi, thanks for your reply the pancake Motors rated at 1 amp 3.50 volts will be used as..... I would love to tell you but I, I'm not ready to put it out on an open forum as yet if you'd like to know my idea send me your email address and I'll tell you my full plans for this project. Again thank you for the reply
I also agree the new version should have native SSL, but for everyone else a good and relatively easy guide and a Pi Zero W (which only cost a few bucks) will work.
I have now written a guide for the Proxy part, the camera section will come slightly later, but it is really simple to install (only real requirement is to run it on a different port than the proxy - I had issues when they were on the same port).
Any further advice, questions etc can be posted to the instructable or my other thread here, linked to above. I will try to help anyone, but usually a Google Search can also help (in essence my guide is simply a compilation of information found on a whole lot of websites, added in a logical order for this specific task).
The resistor is provided to help you test the PT100 board. If you connect it between the middle 2 terminals as in your photo in place of a 2-wire PT100, it should give a reading of 0C. It is not used in normal operation.
First check whether the Enable signal is working properly. When you power up the Duet, the motors should be un-powered and therefore free to move. When you try to home them, or to jog them (with M564 H0 in config.g or sent first to allow movement before homing), they should be powered up and no longer be free to move. If you find they are locked to start with and become free when you try to move them, then change R1 to R0 in your M569 commands for the external drivers.
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