Hey Everyone,

I have been doing a bit of reading on Non Planar 3D Printing and thought it would be fun to give it a crack. Currently it is only a Linux based version of Slic3r that has the functionality so I followed some instructions of how to set up and build the Linux version in Windows 10 built in Linux Environment and quickly set up the slicer. I don’t have a profile for Slic3r as I usually use cura so there is a wee bit of tuning to do. I am very impressed with the outcome. Here is video

https://youtu.be/8WurP1lujIE

Even with the air pump part cooling I still had issues with it almost hitting the part so I turned it away.

Sam

My understanding is it is not about the ac shorting to the dc circuit but more a potential difference building up between the dc rail and ground. Although you are measuring the output of the dc rail to its own 0v pin giving you 12 or 24v (what ever your power supply is rated to), due to the fact it is not grounded to earth, its has the ability to actually be a lot higher than that with respect to ground. It could be 30v or even higher. If for example the dc circuit is isolated from ground but then touches, that is when it becomes a problem. Sensitive electronics such as sensors etc do not like it.

That is my understanding of it. I am not a sparkie, but am in the pumping and irrigation industry where we have sensors (loop powered pressure and transducers etcm) on 24v power supplies that a) do silly things because of it or b) blow up in rare situations. By binding the 0v to ground it avoids these issues.

Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that is what our sparkie said the reasoning behind it.

Kind Regards,

Sam

I agree with @deckingman

Whilst all of the other counters would be nice to have, as a mvp, run hours and axis travel distance would be more than sufficient.

My 2c worth

Sam

In New Zealand and also Australia, as we share a lot of the same regs, you are not allowed anymore than 1 ohm of resistance between the exposed metal of a class 1 appliance (which our printers are) and the earth pin on the plug. It’s called earth continuity here. I have a seperate earth wire off the AC bed and also one to the frame. I am sitting at 0.1 ohms with mine.

Regards
Sam

Managed to sort it. Turns out it is not a good idea to work on setting up a 3d printer when you are on bed rest for a concussion. You end up plugging the wrong motor into the wrong driver.

Yeah I have no idea why that line was in there. I copied the restart on power fail from somewhere and it must have been in there. Oh well I am really happy you guys have sorted it for me. I was starting to get a bit deflated.

@NitroFreak And from this thread

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/11005/news-on-duet-3-release/2

David has said that the Duet 2 will still remain the mainstream board will minor development.

Regards,
Sam

The magnetic filament sensor requires at least 2.03

I should have also said the control board as well as the sensors.

Regards,

Sam

Here is some photos of my first prints. I am pretty happy for my first 3d printer and it being a scratch built as well. The bottom cube was my very first print. So far I have only had one failure.

I have had to remove one of the fans that came with the Flex3Drive, so I am only running one. I am currently looking at designing a duct that allows me to run a tube duct from down where the electronics are up to the extruder for parts cooling. Anyone had any experience with this? It would allow me to run a much bigger fan and keep the weight down.

Kind Regards,
Sam

@kazolar yeah I don’t think I will be using Duet either. I am going to be using servos on mine so it won’t integrate nicely. Will likely use linuxcnc.

You maybe able to use a current limit output on the drive as some sort of warning. I am not sure about the Chinese VFD’s, but I know all the big companies ones that I use (Schneider, Danfoss, WEG) have relay outputs to indicate they are in current limit. Provided you are not getting close to current limit while machining, if the spindle was to stall, you could use that to trigger a macro to shut down. This could also be for any other fault, output phase loss, under voltage etc.

Once I have my new house built, I am going to build a CNC router with a 3-4kw 3 phase spindle and will probably use a Schneider VFD, which will be 4-20mA so will need to look for a frequency converter. I absolutely hate 0-10v or 0-20mA for two different reasons.

Sam

I have a single watercooled v6 heat break that I got from a guy in Germany on mine. I like it as even with doing a 20 hour print the radiator fan never runs so the printer is virtually quiet other than the stepper motor noise. I also have a berd air style part cooling which gets rid of all of the fans other than the ones inside the base of the machine. I can say anything about the mosquito, but I personally like the water cooling

@Chriss I don’t think it is as the one you posted a link to doesn’t have a stepper driver where this one does

Hi @deckingman I hope you are not too affected by the fires there at the moment. It is pretty horrible. David was right in the fact that I had several sensors that we in the 100's for sensor numbers. I guess it was a bit of a hangover from the sensor assignment in RRF2 for the MCU and Drivers.

@dc42 I did not see anywhere in the documentation about the maximum number of available sensors? Also the tacho assignment is not that well defined in the what you need to do document. In some places it is assigned as +^pb6, others are as you have mentioned. It is a wee bit confusing.

Cheers
Sam

Hey Everyone,

Can somebody please help.....

I am still having the below issues with my board cooling. I am not sure what I am doing wrong but the fans won't run and I can not see them being displayed in the extra box. Here is the code

;Board Cooling Fan					

M308 S100 P"mcu-temp" Y"mcu-temp" A"Duet Board" 				; Map Duet MCU to the Extra Table
M308 S101 P"Drivers" Y"drivers" A"MCU Drivers"				; Map Duet Drivers to the Extra Table
M308 S102 P"Drivers-duex" Y"drivers-duex" A"Duex2 Drivers"		; Map Duex2 Driver to the Extra Tabl
M308 S103 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" A"Control Area" T100000 R4700 B3950  	; Create Virtual Heater for Control Area
M950 F1 c"!fan1" Q25000							; Assign Fan 1 to Fan 1 Port and Inverse
M106 P1 L.3 B.5 T30:65 H100:101:102 C"Duet Fan"				; Set fan 1 PWR fan. Turns on when MCU temperature, hits 45C and full when the MCU temperature reaches 65C or if any TMC2660 drivers (virtual 		
M950 F2 c"!fan2" Q25000							; Assign Fan 2 to Fan 2 Port and Inverse
M106 P2 L.3 B.5 T30:40 H103 C"Control Area"				; Set fan 2 PWR fan. Turns on when MCU temperature, hits 45C and full when the MCU temperature reaches 65C or if any TMC2660 drivers (virtual 

Cheers
Sam

Hey everyone,

I was wondering if anyone could shed any more light on my issues with my config. The virtual heaters are not showing and the fans are not working with them when I manipulate the starting thresholds. I have also noticed if it is any help that they are being displayed in the fan section when I did not think they should as they are thermostatically controlled. My part cooling pump is also not working and that I could control with the slider.

Cheers
Sam

So a bit more of an update, I have sorted the water pump running all the time. I had the fan set as fan7 not duex.fan7. That has stopped it from always running, however it is not showing its rpm in dwc.

I have this as the code now:

M950 F7 c"!duex.fan7+exp.^pb6" ; Assign Fan 7 to Fan 7 Port and Inverse
M106 P7 H1 B1 L0.3 X0.7 T60 C"Extruder" ; Water Cooling Pump Start

I have just tried it like this:

M950 F7 c"!duex.fan7+^pb6" ; Assign Fan 7 to Fan 7 Port and Inverse
M106 P7 H1 B1 L0.3 X0.7 T60 C"Extruder" ; Water Cooling Pump Start

And my DWC has locked up with a dark shade to the screen. Refreshing it doesn't seem to fix it so it looks like I will be pulling the SD card out and changing it back as it doesn't seem to like it.

Any more help on this issue and the virtual heater would be gratefully accepted.

Cheers
Sam

Thank you @garyd9 and @dc42

@garyd9 I changed it to what you had and it made the printer start with a 0 probe reading but as soon as I touched it with my hand, the light on the orion turned blue and turned off after but the probe reading stayed at 1000. Adding the pull up resistor as @dc42 suggested has fixed that now, which is fantastic.

The next issue is my water cooling for the hot end is still running all the time and non of the virtual heaters are being displayed nor working when I change the starting thresholds below the current temp of them.

Cheers
Sam

HI @garyd9

I had attached both the old and the new to the first post but it seems to have put them on one line so it only looks like 1 file attached.

Here is my homing config for RRF2

M574 X1 Y1 S1 ; X home to min. Y home to max. Normally Closed limit switches.
M574 Z1 S0
M558 P8 I1 R0.4 F300 X0 Y0 Z0 A5 ; digital piezo sensor, output rises on contact, probing speed, not used to home axes
G31 X0 Y0 Z-0.085 P500 ; sensor is nozzle and debounce value.

Cheers
Sam