Yep. It's more or less the thinned down machined version of the effector mount I printed. The Problem is the barbells are the same distance from the center of the hotend as what I've got. In order to get my full build plate without hitting the towers I need the barbells to be mounted the same distance from the hotend center as the mag balls would be mounted. With the way the smart effector is designed for the electrical connections, I would need to design a mount that puts the barbells far enough above to not interfer with the wiring, thus lowering the z height even further. If I mount the barbell underneath the effector then the arms hit the smart effector before they hit the tower.

The Magballs seem to be the best compromise between build area and height. I like the fact that the ballcups have the springs for backlash compensation and won't come unhooked during a print versus the mag ball arms. Would it be possible to get mag balls the same diameter as the balls on the Barbells and use the ballcup arms with the stock mounting location on the smart effector?

Try running G32 twice after power up before you drive to Z=0. If the M665 parameters in config.g are a long way from the true values, then there can still be a height error after running G32 once. This is especially true in firmware 2.03, and there will be a 2.03.1 release to fix this.

Oh, there it is 🙂 I did not see "select Z probe type 8" ...seems that was my problem… 🙂 I´ll give it a trial when I´m back home next week 🙂

Thanks a lot 🙂

Did you see my post in which I gave the cause of the "crinkle crisp" height map, and possible solutions?

You should not need to add H corrections to the probe points when using the Smart Effector, or any other type of nozzle contact Z probe. They are only needed when using an offset Z probe on a delta printer, to compensate for any varying tilt of the effector.

@bpislife Ok, to close this post out. I was able to repair the traces. What I did was short the broken traces out at the very top, so 5 lines were essentially shorted together. I figured this was better then simply breaking the circuit. I did this in the two places where I had damaged the trace. Turns out the washer had been dented when I removed the e3d hotend and it dug into the PCB when I torqued down the nut.

Anyways, the smart effector works like a champ now.

here is the one without the metal ring
https://e3d-online.com/embedded-bowden-collets-for-metal-1-75mm-filament

@t3p3tony said in New Smart Effector with Problem.:

@flipps please test the Smart effector to make sure it works. That looks like the programming pads cleared to make better contact for programming the firmware.

Thanks for your answer, i will test soon ✌

@edkirk said in Compensate for thermal expansion?:

Thanks, I wrote it in the starting script, experimenting with speeds and number of probes, I think first probe fast followed by 3 slow probes. Fun little dance.

If you have already homed Z, you can use a G1 command to position the nozzle about 5mm above the centre of the bed before you do the G30. Then it only has to probe 5mm.

Thanks, I got the new effector reinstalled last night after repairing the trace, and confirmed it's working fabulously!

@mikewittt said in Fan and lights turn off as i attach the thermistor???:

Hi, i just installed the smart effector on my delta with a duet maestro and the above happened.
I first attached the thermister through the 8pin connector and later straight to the thermistor. The temperature seems okay, but the hotend fan and the leds wont run.
If i take out the thermistor they go on???

Any idears?

You have configured Fan 1 to run thermostatically when the hot end temperature is 45C or above (see the M106 P1 command in config.g). So it wil be off below that temperature. When the thermistor is not connected, the firmware doesn't know what the hot end temperature is, so it turns the fan on as a precaution.

@dc42 said in Delta smart effector+Haydn Magballs carriage mount:

Or just loosen the grub screw on the motor pulley and move the pulley along the shaft a bit.

unfortunatly on the AKL+ there is no room to move the pulley back without the dampener

Problem solved, I forgot to reset the Z height.

that fixed it, thanks,

i think i copied it the first time without the last 0 on 1200 because i had upped it from 120 to 400 because i thought it was too slow!

its working great now, thanks

Yes it would. The heatsink fan is connected in parallel with the LED/resistor string.

I guess your Smart Effector has developed a fault then, so please ask for it to be replaced under warranty. You might like to check first that all pins of the 8-pin connector are soldered properly (those pins have to be hand-soldered so it's possible that pins get missed), and that component L1 on the underside and close to that connector is present.

A very good explanation of the different type of sensor is at
Temperature Sensors

@toskium said in Available watercooling solutions:

where you got the aluminum cooling block from.

this is not my design (with aluminium block). I think it is V5 heatblock with piece of pipe inserted in the place for heater cartridge.

zesty products are great!

p.s. this is thiniverce

https://a360.co/2UxSh0q and http://a360.co/2gUIpMk

The first is not mine but i didn't find the original source. Apart from the fact that there is a post in the airway of the fan and the duct around the nozzle is pretty thin, its more thought out than the 2nd

The 2nd is mine, has more space for the air to go through. Ignore the yellow hotend cooling duct, an 30x30 fan will still fit. It attaches to the lower part of the mag ball screws but there is not space left for a nut, so i use rubber band to string it around the corners of the effector. That has actually proven to be a good quick release mechanism for when you want to change nozzle

Here's another possibility. The 12V/24V jumper is in series with the LEDs and bypasses a resistor on the PCB. So if you can remove that resistor then you can connect a switch to the 12/24V jumper pins, with a resistor of around 600 ohms in series with the switch if you are using 24V.

There are 3 mounting holes on the effector, so you could attach a printed part to mount your switch on. If you use those holes, use nylon washers under any metal screw heads or nuts, to avoid damaging the strain gauge traces.

rubber gasket?