@oryhara

In case anyone else encounters this issue in the future, I thought I'd add a recent finding:

I've been having this issue frequently near a BMG extruder outlet. I'd cut the tube a couple of times to give it fresh material to clamp onto, which did help a bit, but the issue was slowly getting worse.

I had a couple of the E3D Bowden fittings spares laying around and thought I'd try replacing the inner fitting. I cut 1/4 of it off to get it out, but was actually fairly surprised when I got it out.

Bowden Fitting Covered with PTFE Residue

The original tube (also from Anycubic) had left some residue on the Bowden clip - you can see it in white. This was essentially coating the clip in PTFE as well, which substantially reduces the friction holding the tube in place (PTFE on PTFE has the nearly the lowest friction coefficient possible). I switched the tube to some leftover Capricorn tubing and changed out the fitting - I've noticed the difference immediately despite the smaller outer diameter of the Capricorn.

TLDR?
Public Service Announcement: Throw away your Anycubic PTFE tubing and replace the Bowden insert if you're having this problem.

@dc42
Okay I flashed the firmware with avrdude. Seems to work now.

I think I got my answer from the SeeMeCNC forum:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12819&p=110440#p110440

Thanks a lot David.

With best regards
Stephan

@dc42 This is my aproach. I am close to receive my second smart effecto and plan to have also a vocano setup and a v6 setup.

But I was planning on using sets of filament named
PLA-v6
PLA-volcano

and set everything on the config file of each filament with a proper G30 setting.

So when I change the tool, then I must change the filament to the proper one, and I hope the config file runs the height change and the bed calibration (not sure yet to use S4 or S6)

My concern is, if I leave the filament set on tool, turn off the printer and turn it on, it should run the config.g of that filament when I start the print?

if i remember correctly the outer box was damaged a bit but the inner blue and white one seemed ok that why i was thinking that it could be the heat sink that hit the effector. thanks a lot for your help !

@EasyTarget I got the heatsink from a German store here. My existing thread on watercooling in combination with the smart effector might also be of interest to you.

It's M12x1.5 vs M12x1.0

@dc42 seems like effector may still work after swapping the fuse, but my effector also has no probe indicator led as illustrated in the docu. Is this for self soldering or are the other two leds intended to glow (which they don't)? I also tested resistors R11, R13 and R14 and they seem more or less fine. But there is still no changing Probe signal as in the beginning.

IMG_20191018_184449.jpg

c0de5170-f57d-47dd-ac78-fe89812ec560-grafik.png

@dc42

Ok thanks for the help

@vacalos said in Solder PT100 wires to Smart Effector:

I suspect the crimped PT100 connections may cause an intermittently poor electrical connection which results in Heater Faults.

If properly crimped, they work fine. I crimp mine with a very inexpensive crimp tool. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Crimping-Computer-Automotive/dp/B01M1YK5FM/

Assembly Lines use much more expensive ratcheting crimpers, and that's what gets documented as the "required" or "proper" crimper.

For a hobbiest, who is not in a hurry, the flat crimpers (linked) produce EXCELLENT crimps for a very low investment.

I was wondering if anyone has soldered the PT100 sensor wires to the smart effector.
If so, how did you get to the pins underneath the molex style connector on the effector?

If you do choose to go this route, I'd un-solder the molex connector entirely, and solder all the wires into the holes where it was.

After updating to 2.04RC1 (2019-07-14b1) issue is gone.

Many thanks for your help!

Veti,
Thanks for the reply. I have use dc42's backlash macro and added the codes to do the same test in the Y direction. It has worked very well and I use it often, especially after mods and/or cleaning. the SD/m in the x direct is 0.005 and nan. In the Y direction is 0.006 and nan.
The problem with the reporting error is gone now. I backed up my sd card and did a reset on the board. Kind of harsh, but I needed to get back in production. The DWC now reports head position at -0.15 and the firmware message reports Stopped at -0.151. Not much for the reason why the problem appeared, but it fixed the problem.
Thanks again.

S6 worked!
It adjusted all the measures and now the object are ok.
Thanks!

@dc42 Hello

I applied option C, I just hope I identified correctly the GND on the PT100 daughterboard, please can you confirm from the picture below ?

0_1566475515591_Duet+PT100+Daughter+Board.jpg

Thank you

@mihaitintea said in H1 (extruder) fault after power on:

Since I assume this (turning off the mains power in a hurry) is not something I should as a habit,

the reason why you should not be doing that is because it could clog up the hotend.

the pt100 sensor should not be affected by a main power off.

the pt100 sensor is prone to interference. see if you are running power cables close to the pt100 cables.

@jay_s_uk
Thanks!
That design would cut down on my printable area, the fans would touch the belts.
My search continues! 🙂

@barracuda72 Hi. How is it going? Did you manage to install this radiator?

I'm working on a model of the smart effector which will include all of the SMD components and correct clearances, so the community (and me) can continue making awesome add-ons and such. Just started it recently and I work a whole lot so it might take me a while to actually finish it, but I'll share the f3d file which is properly broken into components and bodies, step, stl, and anything else that would be helpful.

Still very much a work in progress:
alt text

I'm a delta fanatic, have several of them, have tried every single thing from FSR, piezo, microswitches, IR, pretty much every probe setup on the market. This is far and away the best solution.