i am not sure what voltage it was, i know it burned a line into the cpu on a 3.3v line though and burned one of the legs off, im using my old duet wifi now the burned one is in a drawer
but thank you i will look into those components as soon as i find my multimeter
@quadcells, if you can see the damage and it is localised, and you have a fine-tipped soldering iron, it might be possible to repair it by soldering a single strand from some stranded wire over the break. The traces are only 0.15mm wide, OTOH I've hand-soldered 0201 SMD components (0.25 mm × 0.125 mm) before now.
It would probably be OK to paint some polyurethane varnish or similar on to the PCB to help protect the traces in future.
@zov the only direct contact detection that it wouldn’t work for is electrical since the nozzle tip is a ruby. Piezo based and strain-gauge (smart effector) will work. I think starting with hardened steel is a great choice. 🙂
You may have a bad crimp connection in the signal cable, or the effector may be faulty. Does the green led flash when you tap the tip of the nozzle upwards? Are you using the recommended probing speed in the M558 command?
Yup... Strong magnets will do that. Wait till you troubleshoot a BL touch and it turns out the problems were due to magnets affecting the sensor. That was a painful lesson for me. Unfortunately, I can't just flip the rods. All my magnets are orientated same direction when I put the rods together to make sure they were all consistent.
Oh so I'm currently running my 12v fan at 24v? I have no buck converters connected and am using a 24v psu. Guess I'll do the first method since I do have a buck.
Ok thank you 🙂 I guess that is just a little confusing from looking at the wiring diagram, but I guess it just depends on how you interpret that they are paired. 0_1532564513167_D79A2D5B-B444-432D-AD78-4D26F53AC875.png
The green light does flash randomly without any kind of pattern to it
If it flashes randomly with no heaters or fans turned on, and you haven't increased the sensitivity, that suggests a hardware fault - possibly in the effector, but more likely a bad crimp connection in the +3.3V or ground wire between the 8-pin connector and the Duet.
We use the 6-pin Microfit 3.0 connector on the Smart Effector to connect the heater and fan wires. They are good, however once you have inserted the pins into the shell, they are impossible to remove without a special (and expensive) tool.
Due to the risk of miswiring, we put the low voltage connections for the nozzle contact probe and the temperature sensor on a separate connector.
@CaLviNx great to hear that, do you have a pic of your setup? thanks 😉
erm no not on me so to speak, because im on rotation at work in Saudi and the printer is at home for the next 5 weeks until i am back home again sorry.
