Also make sure your hotend can handle those temps!

This link in earlier post explains where they were coming from:

http://tinypic.com/r/jauvjn/9

Original config file from printer kit, I guess.

@T3P3Tony:

For history of the work already done on this worth reading these links:
http://blog.reprap.org/2012/04/colour-mixing.html
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:RepRapColourMixingReport-jmc.pdf

Rich also has a good overview:
http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/3-way-quick-fit-extruder-and-colour.html

Passive mixing does not work well with hot plastic. Active mixing works but is mechanically difficult.

Thanks for the links Tony. I'd already seen richrap's blog but not the others. I'd probably temper your conclusive comment to something like "passive mixing has not yet been found to work well" because, to the best of my knowledge, there is no fundamental reason why it shouldn't be possible.

That was it, thanks for your time!

If the temperature reading from a thermocouple decreases when the temperature rises, you need to swap the thermocouple wires over.

Added pics to the my setup section. Prints are working great, but I need some more build tak. Had some collisions due to some mechanical issues. OOPS.

You can also add the comments that the firmware needs into your start and/or end gcodes but you'd have to edit them every time you slice something with a different layer height. David will tell you what they are but it'll be something like "; layer_height = n.nn" and maybe some others.

I'm glad you worked it out.

Thanks for the help guys. Did some tweaking tonight and it is starting to get better. Few more test runs and I think I will have it lined out.

Not going to 3D Print a very large City with that. Eessh 🙂

@T3P3Tony:

Lean regarding having to redo the calibration each time - do you have something in config-override.g that could be throwing the calibration out (e.g M666 with the wrong parameters?)

I'll have to check but I'm 99% positive that I don't have a config-override. (Now that you mention it, I should go review the appropriate commands because that would be useful).

The first time I type the command, it just returns the M code. M665 returns M665. The second time returns the values I have stored in config.g. This isn't a huge deal and it seems that I'm the only one suffering from whatever this is.

Now working. Began working normally after I tried an autocalibration run even though it was starting at the wrong x,y coordinates. I let it run the first few probing points until it looked like it was about to go outside of the bed, I killed the power. On restart it is now homing properly.

I wonder if it was an aborted attempt at autocalibration earlier which I was trying to video to help people setup the piezo sensors, which changed/overwrote/corrupted some parameter somewhere (not config.g or config_override.g as these were normal) which caused the problem. Pretty strange - but fixed. Back to the filming.

Thank You David. I'll wait until the telnet support is back

@deckingman:

@kylesmth:

ok, I'm having an issue with printing smaller circles. The printer can keep up with everything else fine but when it tries to print the small circles it can make the motion quick enough and I'm getting a bad layer shift because it misses a few steps. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I could improve that?

Well I guess the obvious answer is to slow it down for small circles. Slic3r has a setting called "Small perimeters" under "Print Settings" which is used for (I think) anything with a radius of <=6.5mm. If you are not using slic3r then your slicer probably has a similar setting somewhere. HTH

Edit. Purely out of curiosity, why has your printer got lead screws for X and Y? Was that a conscious decision and if so, what were the factors that determined the decision? Don't get me wrong, I'm not being critical. It's just an unusual set up so I am just curious.

Ian

thanks I'm using simplify 3d so I'll take a look for that setting. I just went with lead screws more as an experiment more than anything. I wanted to see if there was much of an improvement over the quality of belt drive, and so far i'm pretty happy with the results. Just still working on sorting out some small issues like this.

@dc42:

Older versions of DWC tend to report connection errors as password required. I suggest you upgrade to the latest versions of all 3 components.

I'll upgrade everything and see if that helps.

Thank for the speed comment. I will make them identical. Never gave it any thought,

I notice that I can print normally now, but I have to do a Home before I can print, otherwise the extruder starts misbehaving. This is not a real problem, but it seems to be new. I don't remember eve having this issue, but I am back at 1.15b so I must have just happen to miss it during that time.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

Yes, essentially after you home Z the machine will remain at the trigger height until it is told otherwise. When you run your gcode file, it sees the G1 Z0.2 command which will move it to Z=0.2 but then after that, it gets another home command which will leave it at the trigger height. It'll be easy to check - just use notepad++ or some such to delete the G28 or move it to before the G1 Z0.2 but of course, you'll need to sort out the start gcode that put it there in the first place. HTH
Ian

@DjDemonD:

This is what's put me off mixing hotends so far is the fear of being unable to remove a blockage from a nozzle and having a large chunk of scrap brass in the waste metal bin shortly afterwards. Is there a way to have a cheap, easily replaceable mixing nozzle?

No easily replaceable nozzle yet (or not one that I know of) - but I hold my hopes up. IMO the perfect mixing hot end has yet to be designed (but I'm working on it…...)

Having said that, the only time I've had issues with blockages has been caused by heat creep and a softening then hardening of the filament inside the heat sinks. Easily remedied by letting the hot end cool down properly before turning off the machine\fan (we live and learn). I am very careful with what goes into the hot end though, and I dare not try anything that might be abrasive in nature.

There is no REST API, but you can issue an rr_upload POST request to upload files. See https://github.com/chrishamm/DuetWebControl for further information.