Glad it's working. I guess it's not impossible that the thermistor in the other hot end is faulty.

Thanks, perhaps I'll see what kind of paint they have in stores here.

Perfect, thanks for the clarification!

I don't think it's essential to have m665 return more precise values, but it might be a good feature to have so it isn't confusing for some people. It was slightly confusing for me, and I think I did end up inputting the rounded up value into config.g rather than .246 (I mean, 4 microns is not much :P)

FYI I usually buy a batch of these. They seem pretty well made https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10013094/2205011-24v-40w-6mm-20mm-cartridge-heater-for-reprap-3d?&m_override=1

The purpose of the standby temperature is to prevent oozing. The standby temperature isn't normally controlled by the slicer, it's set by G10 Pnn commands in your start gcode. See http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G10:_Tool_Offset. I use a standby temperature of 150C when printing PLA, and in combination with some retraction in the tfree#.g file this is very effective at preventing oozing.

To set the standby temperature the same as the active temperature, in most slicers you can do something like this in your start gcode:

G10 P0 S[first_layer_termperature] R[first_layer_temperature]
G10 P1 S[first_layer_termperature] R[first_layer_temperature]

Alternatively, in your M563 commands in config.g you can declare that both tools use both heaters, then they will always both be heated to active temperature and they will both heat up at the same time.

Part cooling fan, I was tuning with this turned off so i just turned it on and used the same tuning parameters of "M303 H1 P0.4 S240". It reached 145.5C and completed in 370 seconds. Maybe if i should be now putting the PWM back to 0.5 if i'm tuning with the fan on…

I mounted the Stepper at the bottom of the frame, have a nice loop going up and over to the effector.
My Delta is approx 1 meter tall and I have 90 mm long drive cable.

Thanks, you are so quick

If you don't isolate the thermocouple from the heater block then it is likely to pick up noise. Also, heater cartridges occasionally fail with a short between the element and the heater block, so unless you isolate the thermocouple you risk getting a short between the heater voltage and the thermocouple input.

I recommend that you get the E3D cartridge thermocouple and compatible heater block, then you can be sure of isolation and good thermal contact. You may wish to buy the E3D silicone sleeve at the same time.

You’re welcome I’m glad I was able to help.

Ah yes i should have known/remembered "of 255" thing, 0.5 it is then and a lot better is sounds too
All 3 PWM outputs working just fine now
Thanks

Ah, I see the problem - I was misreading my data sheet by a factor of ten. So the numbers made it look like there was a huge advantage to using two high temperatures; turns out it helps a little bit and only throws the room-temperature reading off by a few degrees.

Okey, think I will go with the bed.g solution then.
Thanks for clarifying

Well you certainly couldn't miss it though LOL

I agree with this before, but i watched closely the dice project from Rene Jurack where he tested lot of setup to finish with high value. I made my tests in this way.
For the extruder high value i cannot explain clearly why they gave me better result…

Thanks Stephen but I'm in the uk. I just had to pay a small fortune for an ssr from a reliable source (rs components) I figured in the long run it was cheaper than potentially buying fakes and having to replace.

Ok, this is good to know! I will check and update the cartridges in all of my printers. No need playing with fire!

Ok, sorry i re-upload firmware + duet server and rebooting all my wifi device and now it works.

Thanks for your fast reply.

Walls used to look like that for me back when I was using Slic3r, but it looked fine when using Cura or Simplify3D. I suspect it was some setting that caused overextrusion. So you might want to check any extrusion multiplier you're using and your extruder steps per mm, etc.

OK, good news, managed to tune my bed heater. Set the PWM to 0.2 and it managed to complete the tuning cycle.
It turns out, one of my mistakes was adding too many statements. Once I removed the max temp it sailed through. (40 mins or so)

Now it is stable as a rock.
So for me, this problem is solved.