@justus2342
I run G32 and G29 S1 to enable mesh levelling which is not always need if your bed is in good shape and level I dont run G29 everytime as it stores the heightmap
I run G29 if something has change ...nozzle, effector but only then
Yes you need to make sure the nozzle is clean as it cant account for plastic on the nozzle.
You can run G30 S-1 to do a single probe as a minimum for G29 S1 to be effective
Hope this helps
Take G28 out of your start Gcode
Are you calibrating before every print attempt them loading your print file?
I know its an obvious one but have you tried another cable as I had the exact same thing recently and it was the cable
Heater indicator I..think
I am using a Smart Effector but you don't print with the switch you still need to be able to have your nozzle go to the correct height and your rod lengths need to be accurate so only use the 6 factor bed file
process I laid out above is from that very document but instead of G92 Z0 we want your height to go to the correct heights without resetting them this will be better over all
Yes you can use that guide but make sure you call the 0.1mm height and it does go to that height after homing and before G32 only now during your initial setup or if you swap nozzles or make change which may effect the height
so this only needs to be done once without making changes.
Start Gcode includes a purge line for PLA adjust for other materials when you have a good ideal temp for them credit to the user NexxCat that helped me.
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G90
M83
G28
M104 S130 T0
M190 S60 T0
M109 S130 T0
;M106 P1 S0 ; turns hot end fan off un-comment when using with Smart Effector
;M291 P"Please ensure the nozzle is clean and click OK to continue." S2 ;un-comment when using Smart Effector
G32
;M106 P1 S1 ;Turns hot end fan back on un-comment when using with Smart Effector
M190 S60 T0
M109 S210 T0
G29 S1
; Draw arc to prime the nozzle between 6PM and 9PM on the bed edge
G1 X0 Y-175 Z0.25 F6000
G2 X-175 Y0 I0 J175 E30 F1500
G1 X-174.52
G3 X0 Y-174.52 I174.52 J0 E28 F1500
G1 Z1 E-0.5 F6000
Hope this helps
Not much to it really though not a great combo Duet and Palette2 but it works of a fashion
Is your hub a canvas or diy ? Factory hub has it all installed though slower than DIY!
Either way if its a diy its 2 plug ins install them via octoprint from the mosaic site so add them through plugin manager in octoprint settings then show more and paste the link for each file then restart the server(octoprint) plug the usb cable into duet from the hub(Pi) configure your printer in octoprint there are videos for this ...now its controlled via octoprint not DWC (the duet) but DWC will still show temps position etc.
Printing over usb is slower than native duet as it sends the information in bits as the printer needs it kinda thats it follow the screen prompts to calibrate your extruder/colour mixing again Chris's basement on youtube has a really good video for this aspect.
Hope this is of help
@Danal
Hi Danal,
It's a smart effector I've tried loads of heights and all with the same results fine in parts of the bed too high in others
currently at -0.08 trigger height.
Thanks
Sorry what probe are you using ?
Also try using S6 (6factor) instead of S8
Did you follow this guide ?
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer
I always make sure mesh is disabled as per delta cal docs when probing I'm gonna fit the new endstops and try again because nothing is making any difference, appreciate everybody helping at least I have a better understanding of reprap though if I don't get this to work not sure I'll remember it.
Thanks
C`
Best to post your config.g, config-override.g, homedelta.g files
I have both nimble V2 and flex3drive whilst the nimble V2 has issues they claim is distortion during cooling of the injection molded gears it being a poor copy of the flex3drive there being a whole heap of story behind that I have had no issues with the flex3drive and have it on 3 printers all I would say is keep your tuning around the default spec especially with regard to acceleration and motor power lower the better
And if purchasing don't buy the SLA printed kit parts print your own if able to and buy the hardware kit, The orbiter I also have is really good highly recommend it got it back on my delta now with a lightened mount seeing how it goes.
I often get 6 flashes on at least 3 of my smart effectors on power on and then always get the 2 and they work fine but never timed it... but over 2 minutes maybe its noise initially with the SBC booting ? as long as you get the 2 flashes and it works I would look to maybe separate/isolate your wiring a little more maybe if a fan is kicking in close to the wiring or similar and see if it makes any difference or run with just the bare essential to test for noise but I wouldn't look to replace it yet if it does settle.
Which slicer are you using?
Also 7mm is a lot for direct drive 2mm max
@Reefwarrior
You can tick each file in filaments/macros and dload as zip via right mouse click
@dc42 Good to know Thanks
Yeah not sure it respects limits during probing
Not sure it will help
M208 Z0 S1 needs to be Z-0.2 or some negative number as the effector is going negative to measure strain
@fragle
If you G1 Z0.1 does it hit the bed before you calibrate G32?
You need to set your height currently H430.00 can't be correct also take out ;M501
don't want config_override at this point as it isn't helping.
Heat the bed to 60c nozzle 130c then home G28
don't calibrate just lower the nozzle to a piece of paper on the bed or .1 feeler gauge
that's your height minus off what's above zero/0.1 from M665 H parameter then reboot and G1 Z0.1 should be 0.1 above the bed then set your probe trigger height to -0.1 reboot and calibrate
M558 P5 C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod" X0 Y0 Z0 Z- for an sm effector
@fragle said in Smarteffector problems with 3.11 ( update from 2.04):
M558 P5 C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod" X0 Y0 Z0 H5 R0.4 F1200 T6000
M558 P5 C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod" X0 Y0 Z0 H35 R0.4 F1200 T6000
try changing the probe height higher as above