@justus2342
I run G32 and G29 S1 to enable mesh levelling which is not always need if your bed is in good shape and level I dont run G29 everytime as it stores the heightmap
I run G29 if something has change ...nozzle, effector but only then
Yes you need to make sure the nozzle is clean as it cant account for plastic on the nozzle.
You can run G30 S-1 to do a single probe as a minimum for G29 S1 to be effective
Hope this helps
Take G28 out of your start Gcode
Are you calibrating before every print attempt them loading your print file?
I know its an obvious one but have you tried another cable as I had the exact same thing recently and it was the cable
Heater indicator I..think
I am using a Smart Effector but you don't print with the switch you still need to be able to have your nozzle go to the correct height and your rod lengths need to be accurate so only use the 6 factor bed file
process I laid out above is from that very document but instead of G92 Z0 we want your height to go to the correct heights without resetting them this will be better over all
Yes you can use that guide but make sure you call the 0.1mm height and it does go to that height after homing and before G32 only now during your initial setup or if you swap nozzles or make change which may effect the height
so this only needs to be done once without making changes.
Start Gcode includes a purge line for PLA adjust for other materials when you have a good ideal temp for them credit to the user NexxCat that helped me.
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G90
M83
G28
M104 S130 T0
M190 S60 T0
M109 S130 T0
;M106 P1 S0 ; turns hot end fan off un-comment when using with Smart Effector
;M291 P"Please ensure the nozzle is clean and click OK to continue." S2 ;un-comment when using Smart Effector
G32
;M106 P1 S1 ;Turns hot end fan back on un-comment when using with Smart Effector
M190 S60 T0
M109 S210 T0
G29 S1
; Draw arc to prime the nozzle between 6PM and 9PM on the bed edge
G1 X0 Y-175 Z0.25 F6000
G2 X-175 Y0 I0 J175 E30 F1500
G1 X-174.52
G3 X0 Y-174.52 I174.52 J0 E28 F1500
G1 Z1 E-0.5 F6000
Hope this helps
Not much to it really though not a great combo Duet and Palette2 but it works of a fashion
Is your hub a canvas or diy ? Factory hub has it all installed though slower than DIY!
Either way if its a diy its 2 plug ins install them via octoprint from the mosaic site so add them through plugin manager in octoprint settings then show more and paste the link for each file then restart the server(octoprint) plug the usb cable into duet from the hub(Pi) configure your printer in octoprint there are videos for this ...now its controlled via octoprint not DWC (the duet) but DWC will still show temps position etc.
Printing over usb is slower than native duet as it sends the information in bits as the printer needs it kinda thats it follow the screen prompts to calibrate your extruder/colour mixing again Chris's basement on youtube has a really good video for this aspect.
Hope this is of help
@Danal
Hi Danal,
It's a smart effector I've tried loads of heights and all with the same results fine in parts of the bed too high in others
currently at -0.08 trigger height.
Thanks
Sorry what probe are you using ?
Also try using S6 (6factor) instead of S8
Did you follow this guide ?
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer
I always make sure mesh is disabled as per delta cal docs when probing I'm gonna fit the new endstops and try again because nothing is making any difference, appreciate everybody helping at least I have a better understanding of reprap though if I don't get this to work not sure I'll remember it.
Thanks
C`
Best to post your config.g, config-override.g, homedelta.g files
Hi,
The extruder is suspended via springs so the bowden will flex as the effector moves but this is the standard setup for this printer and the same setup which prints with the original board .i.e. it's not stopping the nozzle from reaching the extremities of the bed infact the bowden is longer than the standard supplied bowden as I didn't like it flashing the trigger on movement now it doesn't flash unless it's probing.
I have also probed without the bowden or filament attached with no more success than I have now.
Hope that explains it.
Thanks
C
G28 then bring nozzle down to touch paper or even better feeler gauge 0.1 mm then G92 Z0
then raise the effector so you can get your probe on then G30 S-1 that is your offset but add the 0.1 from the paper/feeler gauge to the offset equals your Z0
the process is G28 then set temps bed 60c nozzle 130c make sure your nozzle is clean as it may push on the switch then G32 from DWC then G29 from DWC that is then save so you only do it again if something changes.Homing wipes the G32 out so only home when you first start the printer up NOT after probing if you home you need to G32 and most delta owners will probe before the 1st print don't need to after unless you home/have an issue or restart the machine.Remember to heat bed and nozzle before G32 60c 130c
Let me know if you need any slicer help
Smart Effector is awesome if your able to get one well worth it mate.
Hope this helps
C
Apologies should be 2400
And you'll need to increase your steps as mines a version 2 only difference is steps due to drive ratio yours need to be higher
But I think the main problem is mA 1000 and microsteps as neither are as recommended by Zesty
500mA max and no interpolation on E as you are already pushing high steps it may overdrive the motor which sounds like you are having that issue ?
I have both nimble V2 and flex3drive whilst the nimble V2 has issues they claim is distortion during cooling of the injection molded gears it being a poor copy of the flex3drive there being a whole heap of story behind that I have had no issues with the flex3drive and have it on 3 printers all I would say is keep your tuning around the default spec especially with regard to acceleration and motor power lower the better
And if purchasing don't buy the SLA printed kit parts print your own if able to and buy the hardware kit, The orbiter I also have is really good highly recommend it got it back on my delta now with a lightened mount seeing how it goes.
Well good it appears to function as intended..
My first suggestion would be that not all Kapton tape being equal possibly source a higher grade tape or my choice would be adhesive backed plain pei sheet avoid white text or such if possible these are relatively inexpensive from places like amazon/ebay which it what I use with my dc42 ir sensor with great success.