Posts made by 3ddevil

As a supporter of a great community I have to advocate for much better care and safety factor. We don't want to be cavalier about numbers that are high enough to start fires because they're well over the flash point.

Aluminum will deform around 350C and above. It's super soft just try to scratch it. Depending on the grade it can become quite pliable. At these temps it will absorb in copper or iron impurities from the thermistor and heater cartridges. This breaks the alloy and can cause it to have a wide melt range (non-eutetic alloy).

So bottom line 400-450C and above is very risky. Many people have had aluminum melt and the remaining cartridge go into overdrive. I know people who lost homes over this.

That's why it's always best practice to get a heater and voltage pair that can not easily or ever exceed 450C. If this means waiting 1-2 extra minutes for heat up that's a small price to pay for your safety.

And btw PLA is flammable napalm so I haven't even included that in this discussion. I recommend petg as it's non-flammable generally.

@Gabriel You can safely assume 3.3V and that it's probably a little daring to go up to 5V, but anything over 3.3V should read at max.

Use a voltage divider, or clamp top voltage using a diode. 10V isn't safe directly to the ATSAM as an input unless it's going through a buffer chip.

@gnatman it's not unusual to have a highly powered hot end, but when the max predictions go over 500C it would concern me...

What you need here is to re tune using both your cooling and nozzle fans on at a typically running level, and then you need to employ the what I believe is the S parameter during heating... Read the documentation. This will cap the max power output (PWM heater control limits) during tuning/running and would prevent overshoots. For example I would try S0.6 to start and go from there.

Are you using 24V on a 12V cartridge? You can dial most power supplies down to 20V, giving 36% less power to the heaters, while the motors might loose marginally on top speed and not on torque, assuming low resistance.

If the output ever siezes (transistor on full blast)
The PWM won't stop you from hitting hot-end melting temperatures... But the cooling fan and lower mains voltage will.

Another note, you can limit the sensitivity of the heater control system, expanding the time or maximum temp deviation parameters

@Lukrative What you want to do is easily achievable on any Duet, not in the least with Meastro. The best setup is up to you and which slicer you use, as you can make a combined tool, individual tools, or use firmware retraction. As for the nema11 you'll find you need very high gearing and that will cost speed that would be needed for a quick change / Y splitter setup. Even nema 14s are rare in extruders. I'd guess 6-10X gearing needed. Good luck!

The maestro natively handles two extruders.

Given the dynamic way RRF works, if you can sense temperature on that port, you should be able to control with it / create any sort of tool. So plug in a generic thermistor and try to read it then proceed to figuring out how to trigger chamber control (probably by turning a fan on using thermostatic control)

@TheNetStriker I believe this is just in reference to your G30 command and how Z=0 was set in the first place. Now that you have the map, the absolute height is probably not relevant as long as you are testing G0 Z0 at a few points and it seems to be in the right place.

@Tarasque_1024 that is for sure the cause ...this was well diagnosed by everyone, ultimately you were patient and followed through...this community has learned more for it, so thanks.

From your pic looks irregular, hard to tell from photos but are there signs of rework?

Board manufacturing is complex and there are literally hundreds of steps and dozens of companies involved. Here I think the copper cladding has ripped it's adhesive off of the fiberglass, likely due to excessive force and/or bad soldering. It's possible this component was reworked during a factory test and the excess solder that seems to be there in the pic would cause thermal expansion/shrinkage that could start the delamination.

Ultimately it looks like the pad was stripped off and took the blue epoxy with it...which would happen due to a rocking motion and excess force.

...if so you can not rework this unless you are at least somewhat experienced. Proper rework would involve stripping and sanding the emulsion (blue epoxy) with a Dremel, not stripping the thin 37, micron copper layer all the way through and then prepping the surface for solder and preheating the entire board to something like 70C for proper flow. You also need to shape the solder area for good wetting and inspect to make sure none of the (+) pad area got damaged. If this doesn't intimidate you it is doable, could be educational and you don't have much to loose. I don't see it damaging systems nearby.

I do not think this finding reflects on other components on the board. Board through hole connections are hand soldered and larger pads always have this risk.

@EasyTarget If you measure the output at the terminals with a multimeter and no connected devices you should see V-input for a good working system at both pins. To the novice they may measure one pin to another and see 0V and think it's not working...

@Veti we use these connectors for up to 3A all the time with no issue. Technically the wire Gage could handle quite a bit more. The issue with connectors is they could corrode and with a bad connection there will be a high contact resistance which would cause a power drain at the connection itself. This would in turn over heat and start to melt down or cause a fire in the most extreme cases like if you have a rat nest of wiring all coiled together in a enclosure with no air flow.

This ratings like 1-2A exist for the crimped portion and plastic housings as continuous amperages to be cautious. Ultimately it is up to the system designer to make sure that they have good connections nothing is loose etc. Bottom line you should not fear using this for extruder output up to 50-60W

It is the normal function of a heater mosfet output to show Vin on both pins when set to on and disconnected from a load (open). The multimeter has an internal load that is extremely small (1-10Mohm) compared to the driven circuit. You can measure the voltage at the pins when there is a load. So I do not think your result is conclusive yet.

Mosfets do break but it is fairly rare, I'd say 1 in 500 may break this way.

Are other systems working that use mains power like extruder heat?

I am pretty sure that the heated bed led is setup to light only when there is actual power coming out of the transistor i.e. not if the transistor is blown. See https://github.com/T3P3/Duet/blob/master/Duet2/Duet2v1.04/DuetWifiv1.04a_Schematic.pdf

Based on that assumption and understanding of what you said, if your light is coming on but bed isn't heating there are two possibilities

1. bed isn't wired up right
2. main DC power supply is weak/dying which happens often on switching supplies (such as 24V presenting 9V and little amperage)

Follow up:
Please measure dc voltage when drawing a load or read off the VIN from duet web interface

@OgreCubes If it were me I'd reflash firmware using bossa .. I'd give it a 90% chance of solving the issue.

Before doing that check your system lights. Make sure 3.3 and 5v lights aren't dead as a blown regulator would have the same symptoms

So this is solved for the Servo output, it worked exactly as expected. Quite amazing!

I am not certain, but there are two possibilities I am aware of. I could also be totally off base as I'm not an expert on the wifi - but reported errors are not normally a fluke and usually mean wiring harness issues, overheating, or a damaged driver.

1. overtemperature warnings on motor drivers may be a subset of 'short to ground' which is the most general kind of warning on the maestro. Perhaps it's just a temperature fault which is reported on the wifi
2. your X axis (drive 0) can be moving just fine 99% of the time but shutting down due to overheating. Usually it's quite an audible click sound, the time off would be 100-1000s of milliseconds and a print would fail due to skips.

Follow up:

1. see if the driver is actually hot - measure indirectly, the temps could be over the boiling point!
2. look for actual shorts
3. try lower current, in case it is excessive
4. if these fail, need to disconnect everything else to look for signal crosstalk

Hi @dc42
If I want to create 4X Analog voltage controllers leaving Fan0 and Heaters 0+1 alone, we have come up with this list, which seems to max out our native controller access:

Fan 1
Fan 2
Heater 2
Servo (Z Bed Probe)

According to the documentation here, it is possible to turn these outputs into controllable PWM outputs using https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M42_Switch_I_O_pin is that correct?

The heater needs to be disabled and not referenced by a tool "using M307 H# A-1 C-1 D-1 to make the pin available." Is there any such requirement for the fans/servo?

Finally, if buffered correctly (F=10KHz) and routed into a proper RC buffer can we expect to an analog output from 0-3.3V for Servo and 0-Vin for Heater and 0-Fan Voltage Set? Can you confirm this is possible?

are there any more outputs / alternative pins natively supported by the Maestro or is that all we can do with the chip as currently routed?

I know this is an old topic but in case people are searching and relying on the information I tried to reconcile the different common styles with pictures of the LCD itself and cable, so it is easier to identify which ones you need. See the pictures in this post:

Bottom line, if you don't know it's simple: if the LCD doesn't power on, flip one end of your LCD cables, cutting the keying feature if it's in the way.

@rflulling Thank you for posting; I've updated the Dozuki to reflect the necessary knowledge.

@selva_tvi said in Duet Wi-fi Dead?:

Only the processor is hot. Other parts are normal. Is it possible to replace the processor? Please advice..

Yes it is damaged and they would have to send it our for expert repair. You would have a very tough time to replace the processor at home. Unfortunately this is the cost of wiring your own prototypes.

Would love to have Z backlash compensation. Our beds ride on belts, so wear isn't as much of a concern.
Getting a flat ~20" bed is impossible. So the mesh is a requirement.
Where to upvote the request?

@phaedrux said in DWC UI position updates are behind causing leveling problems:

What firmware version?

This was the latest stable 2.0 build release as of the date of post. It's been an issue in all versions from what we can tell.