Best posts made by Agniusm

@3dmntbighker, Yes, there is consensus. There are 2 ways you can connect your display.

1. You use your cable, cut one end on it, get some dupont connectors and wire it according to this diagram:
   
   If encoder is reversed, you flip 2 bottom wires(as per pic) on Duets EXP2(left connector on pic)
2. method is to use 2 10pin cables(so you need to buy another one)
   a. on duet, connect it normal way
   b. on ender 3 display, connect it flipped where locator clips face beeper.
   Duet exp1 to LCD exp1 flipped
   Duet exp2 to LCD exp2 flipped
   Dont forget to add M918 P1 E4 to your config.g

I have modified my Ender 3 printer for duet boards. I have included drill and cut guides for wifi and maestro to be fitted into original enclosure. You will need drill, 2mm drill bit, hacksaw or jigsaw for metal, a file to smooth out roughness.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3260958
For LCD you will need additional 10 way cable and cut out slots on LCD's EXP1 and EXP2 connectors to fit cables reversed.
For duet its a tight fit. Wi-Fi needs bed connector to be bewildered and soldered in reversed.

@dc42
I went poking wires all over and can confirm it is working now. Pinouts given by @arnd13 did not match. I have tested Reparapdiscount display which came in at the time i was doing this today. It worked strait out of the box so clone maestro pinouts for LCD and SD(confirmed) are correct.
If you like to add it to wiki here is wiring diagram i made. Cheers
,

@veti I dont know why would it be different as my duet wifi works ok with the same script.
P.S. OK. I have figured it out.
I have placed my move to the fron of the bed before these:
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
and now it works

I have a concept i would like to test including piezo. I have bought a set for my extruder assembly but had difficulties mounting it and i scrapped that idea and using prusas induction probe ever since. Resolution is very good and i am happy with it. That being said i have thought of a concept that i would like to validate with you clever people.
i have large cartesian printer based on CR10S4 frame. As i have piezo "in stock" i would like to try and use it as tool offset. Mainly the idea came from thinking about e3d tool changer.
I want to mount piezo disc on the frame beside the bed. i will know piezo Z offset from the bed which will be constant. If i can have duet and piezo cooperate so the Gcode would move my nozzle off the bed where piezo disc is located and touch it to record Z offset then go about the routine of mesh mapping with induction probe.
This would eliminate the need to fiddle with Z offset all together, when you change the nozzle, clean a clog or do maintenance.
Any outside pointers on this?

@CaLviNx:

A printer does not know what it is.

It doesnt know its a CR10, i3 clone, Anet A8 or whatever

A 3d printer is a collection of electronic components : motors, heaters, switches, thermistors etc etc

YOU provide the control board with its operating parameters and it does as you tell it, then the printer does as its instructed, end of story.

Are you for real? No need to be smart ass about anything. I asked if the hardware, specifically motors were compatible with duet wifi. I am well aware of inners of workings of cnc.
The information on the productis somewhat scatered and incomplete and perhaps it is totaly sufficient for oldtimers, not so much for first builders.
The way i got answer of filament sensor might be sufficient for some but i dont know G code that well. i can read it and understand what it means but something more complex to write is another story. I dont have time to reinvent the wheel, i am positive that there are builds using specified hardware so why waist time on writing a code to pause the print, lift the nozzle, move the bed, beep for filament change etc? I thoght the comunity around this product is here to ask and answer, invent, make suggestions.
I am somewhat familiar with marlin, can make changes in firmware, upload, execute but this system is different henze the questions.

So, if you cant help, skip trying to make me look stupid cause you know nothing about me and avoid posting irrelevant crap

Yes, i second that. I use my phone exclusively. Download and upload for gcode files and settings is what i requested as well.

@dc42, is there a way to assign command to long press of a button? A bitmap conversion guide would be handy as there is no info and all current menus had a line at max as image i think.

So, i want have a place i can put all my findings. I have at the stage where i am satisfied with quality i can get from maestro(some tuning would not heart but that's software)
I was posting here on building a cartesian robot to swap magnetic plates for continues manufacturing. Then went on holidays and had an idea of conveyor. The idea is not new but what is different that it operates as a standard 3D printer and could be added to different types. In my case cartesian. There was Makerbot plywood stuff but from what i can tell, it differs. Another man approached me on facebook and he had same idea, building on lulzbot.
The idea is to have rollers and conveyor belt on the build plate and motor on the frame. After print is completed, buildplate parks at the motor, then conveyor engages and ejects parts then starts another print. The code is simple and added to end gcode. If successful it will allow for great stuff
I am using parts from Samsung laser printer, rollers, they are 12mm in diameter and they are my main concern.
I have ordered 0.05mm stainless to spotweld a belt and will attach PEI sheet on top. I hope it will be able to go through that small 12mm roller.
This would save me a lot of money and complexity VS cartesian P&P robot.
The design is very light and adds no more than 100g to Y axis. Here are couple of photos:
Dummy end

Heated bed cablechain side


Screws for tentioning the belt (i will probably need to iterate this more to something a bit more substantial)

Motor location for mating


I will still want spring loaded cog brake so when its parking, it gets disengaged. Simple mechanical.

On the Duet part i will connect this to Duet's second extruder. @DC42, is there a temperature tied to that drive? Like the extruder would not move until temp is high enough to extrude and if so could that be altered?

Still in progress. Have taken upon task changing motion system to linear guide rails. Basically little of creality will be present

@fcwilt
Well, i dont know or have enough electronics knowledge to elaborate. It looks like it works, probe lights up and when metallic piece gets close, led turns off. Then testing with multimeter between ground and signal, beeps continuity as with mechanical switch but when connected to duet, it does nothing, except endstop led on duet dims when metallic object is in close proximity. I tried 5V and 12V and its the same(only LED shines brighter) so it shouldn't be lack of voltage.
P.S. I checked again with the multimeter, diode testing mode and with induction probe it reads 010 when its closed and 678 with metalic piece in close proximity while on mechanical switch it reads 001 closed an 1 open.
Resistance when its closed is 13ohm and when open is over 20Mohm

@phaedrux, not much to elaborate, Aliens, Star Wars, Star trek, Dune etc

I have finished my 24h run of parts and bottom is smooth like baby's bottom. Same run to confirm Z brackets was my issue.

I am testing clone maestro before I get the real deal. I have ender 3 and it comes with 12864 lcd. Its different than is advised that it does not have sd card. It has 3 exp connectors. Exp3 matched pins on duet lcd but will it work with only one cable as I have menus on but lcd is blank? Would be good to get it working as that would save me some money as I need lcd's for 12 printers.

Here if if i did not missbeeped something

@dc42 @arnd13 I can confirm that display works on EXP1. You need to cut a slot to opposite side of the LCD EXP1 and insert the ribbon cable "the wrong way". Further more if you cut slot on EXP2 on LCD and insert ribbon cable "the wrong way" and connect it to DUET Maestro EXP2, you will have fully functional LCD.
Only encoder will be reversed.
Wow, the trouble i went through crimping those cables when i only needed to cut out 2 slots...

P.S. Probably i was too quick with the post. Weird, but when duet is powered through USB, everything works but when through power terminals the display is blank.
Never mind, had it disabled in config.
So you dont have to enable it in config if its powered by USB but you do when it is power through power terminals

Some more of the insights. Using two cable method lcd shows some artifacts. When connected to exp3 and using diy'ed single cable artifacts are absent

Adding SD card to the LCD is no go. You can add it as a separate module you can get on ebay for few quid:
Just for illustration:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-printer-SD-external-card-reader-MKS-Slot-V1-1-and-MKS-Slot2-2-8-inch-U-disk/222920755412?hash=item33e71cc8d4matuTHLib1EHTKR3OVhUcHw:rk:1:pf:0

I have attached somewhat fixed basic menu few posts above

So getting genuine duet maestro i can legitimately pursue my quest in finding an answer to my initial question.
For those skeptical:

Just made a square print on 2 machines, one with genuine duet, another on clone duet. Red is genuine, black - cloned.
I can say that genuine duet introduced som other pattern that you can see on X axis but you can see that ripples are present on both boards so the issue is not with duet being genuine or not as i have speculated earlier.
X axis:

Y axis:

Any insight @dc42 can provide?

Sorry, what?

@nophead Its very hard to see, basically impossible. i will see if i have old sample to get you photo comparison
P.S. Black with 1.8 motor, clear with 0.9 motor if you can spot the difference