Topics created by GoremanX

@phaedrux So that worked perfectly. I added:

G10 G10 G30

right before it starts printing every skirt. Now ever first layer is absolutely perfect and I've had zero failures from a very full build plate

build-plate.jpg

@alankilian That looks perfect! I have some servos I can use here, so I'm looking forward to trying it. Sadly, it looks like another one of my Duet 3 boards just died, so I'm left with no functioning 3D printer at this time until my warranty replacement arrives, and the reseller I bought the boards from still doesn't have inventory 😢

@dc42 Well then I'm afraid I can't help you, I'm done testing this. The gcode file I shared earlier causes every subsequent item in the print to start higher than the first. That's all there is to it. I printed over a dozen tests, some with way more items that were larger and took longer to print, all with Adaptive Layers turned off, and they all turned out fine. But that one I posted above shows the issue every time. I don't think the suggestions about thermal expansion apply here:
bed-temps.jpg

As far as I'm concerned, I've solved this enough for my needs: variable layer heights on multiple objects printed one at a time breaks the expected behavior. I won't use it. 8 hours of my life and half a reel of filament on this already. No thank you.

@GoremanX said in Network Port Not Working:

My point is

yes, we're taking a look.

@Phaedrux Cool! Would be nice if it defaulted to that when we click the </> button. I couldn't easily find any way to set it to different languages (not that I tried very hard), but now that I know, I'll do so

@goremanx They must just be hooked on the feeling.

@chrishamm I can attest to the faster network speeds. It's much, much faster to upload gcode files to the printer in SBC mode than in standalone mode. This makes a big difference with larger files (50+MB). Like orders of magnitude.

As far as wiring, in SBC mode I need:

a 26 pin ribbon cable that must be restrictively short 1 USB-C wire for power to the Pi (the ribbon cable is insufficient to power my 2GB Pi4B +monitor without triggering warnings) 1 micro-USB wire for power to the Pi touchscreen 1 ridiculously long, delicate DSI ribbon cable between the Pi 4 and Pi touchscreen (it's not HDMI) I also once had a ridiculously long DSI ribbon cable between the Pi 4 and a Pi HQ camera, though the long cable was wrecking the images so I had to remove that

The long ribbon cables to the camera and monitor are specifically due to the location of the Pi, tucked under the printer because of the limit imposed by the 26 pin ribbon cable. Wifi signal is also poor there. So while uploading files is much faster, browsing the web or updating the system files on the Pi is slow.

In standalone mode I need:

a single USB-C power cable with Y splitter to power both the Pi and touchscreen a network cable between the Pi and Duet 3

That's it! There's no practical length limit. The Pi sits in the monitor's plastic housing way up on the side of the printer. The flimsy ribbon cable between them is inside that housing, it's like 80mm long and irrelevant. The whole thing is out in the open getting great wifi reception. I can now connect it directly to the camera with a short cable.

Incidentally, are the CAN diagnostic numbers relevant at all? I 'm not sure why CAN is there since I don't use any add-on boards, and I was under the impression that CAN and SPI are mutually exclusive when it comes to communication between 2 devices, yet the "Send timeouts" in the CAN section were consistently climbing the entire time I was testing. Maybe that's just internal board messaging stuff and completely irrelevant... I won't pretend that I'm knowledgeable about communication protocols 😂

I'd love to see an SPI-over-ethernet solution worked out to remove the distance restriction between the Pi and Duet 3. Seems like it would just take a couple of those cheap adapter hats to implement.

@whosrdaddy No, no air blown directly over the print area. The air from the BOFA filter gets blown in through a 90 degree elbow so it gets circulated around the periphery of the enclosure below the heated bed, starting directly under one of the IR emitters.

And no cold air to the heatsink. Ambient air temp rarely gets much higher than about 70c anyways when printing ABS, typically it's more like 40c. This is plenty adequate for cooling the heatsink of the Mosquito Magnum using the stock 25mm fan. I've considered switching to a water cooled Mosquito, but haven't seen a need to yet.

I do however have an external air pump for part cooling, for when I need to do bridging and such. It blows through a tube into a Berd air ring

IMG_20210105_112349.jpg .

@dc42 This is great news! However could the official documentation be changed to reflect that? Because right now, it explicitly states that out1 through out3 do not have flyback diodes built-in:

"2-pin JST VH OUT_1 thru OUT_3: these are intended for extruder heaters or fans. Maximum recommended current 6A each. If you connect inductive loads to these outputs, you must use external flyback diodes."
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_3_Mainboard_6HC_Wiring_Diagram

@dc42 Perfect, thank you

This appears to work in practice.

I have 2x ceramic IR emitters (425 watts each @110v AC) with built-in type K thermocouples and very short leads. I wired up a type K lead that has a 3-way junction for each lead before heading directly to the thermocouple doughterboard on a Duet 3 6HC. None of the connections use different metals from the leads themselves. My gcode in config.g looks like:

M308 S0 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 A"Chamber Monitor" ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp 0 M308 S3 P"spi.cs0" Y"thermocouple-max31856" A"Chamber Heaters" T"k" F60 ; configure sensor 3 as thermocouple on pin spi.cs0 (2 connected in parallel) M950 H2 C"out3" T3 ; create chamber heater output on out3 and map it to sensor 3 M307 H2 D5 B1 ; enable bang-bang mode for the chamber heater and set dead time M141 H2 ; map chamber to heater 2 M143 H2 T0 A0 S100 ; set temperature limit for chamber based on secondary probe

The "Chamber Monitor" (M308 S0) is a separate thermistor that lives on the effector and measures the temperature of the air being drawn by the hotend heatsink fan. I figure that's a good indication of the air temp where the actual printing is happening, though I'm only using it as a cutoff limit in this case, not the actual heating reference.

When I set the heaters to 90c, they climb right up to that temperature. The thermocouple reading and my IR thermometer read a temperature that's always within 5c from each other. So it looks like the readings from the two heaters are in fact being averaged. The reading at ambient temperature was also similarly accurate.

https://i.ibb.co/w452nCr/IMG-20201118-180647.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/TKbXBZ7/IMG-20201118-180656.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/nknyZYJ/IMG-20201118-180624.jpg

@chrishamm said in SPI Changes in Current 3.2 Beta Firmware:

but I believe that was fixed months ago

mystery solved:)

I have a Macro on my duet. Once my nozzle touch a 0.4mm feeler gauge, I just execute the macro
"G92 Z0.4"

Always get perfect first layers depending on the filament type. For petg I normally have to babystep +0.05mm but thats the only example I can think of.

That works as expected now and I was able to complete the calibration

Yes, I'd say you're right. Thanks for the report. Moved to the config tool forum for @chrishamm to take a look at for the next update.

Notes added.

@achrn That's all well and good, but it seems unnecessarily confusing. What I did isn't technically wrong, it just happened to run afoul of a bug. I like being able to reference heater, output and sensor by the same number to avoid any potential mistakes in the future when I haven't looked at the file in months and suddenly need to make changes, especially when using these boards on many different types of printers that have completely different physical configurations

@bearer I plan to run those commands, just waiting on a print to finish in 12 hours (I'm running the Y axis on the E1 driver now and it's working, but I'd still like to know why the Y stepper driver is giving me trouble)

I only upped the Y axis motor to 1200ma (from 800ma) because of the weird random layer shifting that kept happening on that axis. I spent a week trying to diagnose its cause, and finally it went away after I raised the amperage. The physical resistance on that axis actually dropped significantly when I switched to linear rails, but the layer shifting didn't go away. I figured the issue was caused by the nozzle sometimes hitting the print, but I never found the actual problem. I just know that raising the amperage fixed it at the time.

@JoergS5 I have multiple instances of M569 for each motor, but they don't override each other. That was just to make it easier when I was tuning StealthChop to find the right setting.

Thanks for pointing out the mesh leveling thing! I'll have to look into that more closely.